Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Rear Camber  (Read 1903 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

MV6Danny

  • Intermediate Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Swindon, Wiltshire
  • Posts: 491
  • Driving at the speed of light
    • 99 irmscher mv6 3l Manual
    • View Profile
Rear Camber
« on: 09 February 2013, 02:42:04 »

Right guys need a bit of help here please.  :-\ My car is lowered on irmscher springs. The rear tires are wearing excessively on the inside. Have spotted these bushes on pedders website( http://www.pedders.co.uk/pedders-rear-trailing-arm-offset-camber-rubber-bush-pkt-2-kit-5803_p4500559.htm ) and am hoping that it might help the problem a little bit. The problem i have is how do i change these bushes? Is it a really hard job? Do i need to completely remove the rear arm or can i just drop it down to gain access to the bushes? Will i need a special tool to remove the bushes and replace with new ones? I have recently been to see tony at wim and he told me that rear camber isnt adjustable so he cant correct the camber problem i have on the rear of my car. I also had to replace my idler arm again before he can set my car up (which i have now done with a lemforder one not the original cheap one i bought and have now sent back) as there was loads of play in it. If i can replace these bushes before i take the car back to him for the setup that will save me another trip and more money as i understand that when replacing any bushes the car will need to be setup again. Hope somebody can give me some advice. Thanks  :y
Logged
Back in the MV6 again now

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #1 on: 09 February 2013, 05:22:00 »

The poly bushes will not affect the camber. In fact we have yet to notice any affect on rear set up at all by fitting them. So don't worry on that front.

The problem you have is caused by lowering. I've had the exact same problem with mine on irmscher springs as well. The rear tyres showed excess inside edge wear immediately after fitting, although I was able to stop the wear early and alter the camber by raising the rear ride height, by fitting a 10mm thick rubber pad under the rear springs. The rear set up then showed the correct figures.

The rear trailing arms increase camber when the suspension compresses. This is by design. So lowering means increased camber. It's unavoidable.

It would appear lowering below 20mm at the rear is not recomended.


Ps, pedders also do a rear camber correction kit, consisting of excentricly adjustable rear trailing arm bushes. These are designed to correct the camber caused by lowering.
Logged

Andy89

  • Junior Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Norway
  • Posts: 248
    • 97 3.0 MV6
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #2 on: 09 February 2013, 08:55:15 »

kmac also do a set of all 4 bushes in poly so they are super easy to fit, they even come with a tool to extract the original ones.
And those pedders bushes look to be a pain to adjust relative to kmac  :P

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #3 on: 09 February 2013, 09:35:54 »

Ps, for a rubber pad, acquire another pair of rear spring pads and cut the inner lump off to make a hole. Then place that under the existing spring pad currently fitted. Should sort it. :)

There's a pic on here somewhere.
Logged

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #4 on: 09 February 2013, 09:45:47 »

kmac also do a set of all 4 bushes in poly so they are super easy to fit, they even come with a tool to extract the original ones.
And those pedders bushes look to be a pain to adjust relative to kmac  :P
Sigh....

Poly rear trailing arm bushes are not recommended for the omega, due to the camber correction bar(tie rod), which relies on soft RUBBER bushes GIVING so the camber is correct to the adjustment dialled in.
 Poly are too stiff for this purpose and the suspension could bind. Hence poly not recommended.

Pedders camber correction bushes are rubber. Not poly. Although there are probably other suppliers, pedders have a uk distributer and are known to the forum.

Logged

cem_devecioglu

  • Guest
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #5 on: 09 February 2013, 10:29:47 »

very informative .. thanks Chris :y
Logged

pirate

  • Intermediate Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • westhumble surrey
  • Posts: 268
    • steinmetz elit estate
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #6 on: 09 February 2013, 10:44:26 »

this is interesting as my steinmetz is 35 to 40 mm lower and my rear tyres are fine it does have toe in at rear more than a normal one does but she set up very well at WIM ,maybe there was more done to her when built than meets the eye ?
Logged

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #7 on: 09 February 2013, 11:05:29 »

Found a pick of the pad, with inner lump removed. (hacksaw to remove)

Logged

MV6Danny

  • Intermediate Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Swindon, Wiltshire
  • Posts: 491
  • Driving at the speed of light
    • 99 irmscher mv6 3l Manual
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #8 on: 09 February 2013, 14:48:40 »

The poly bushes will not affect the camber. In fact we have yet to notice any affect on rear set up at all by fitting them. So don't worry on that front.

The problem you have is caused by lowering. I've had the exact same problem with mine on irmscher springs as well. The rear tyres showed excess inside edge wear immediately after fitting, although I was able to stop the wear early and alter the camber by raising the rear ride height, by fitting a 10mm thick rubber pad under the rear springs. The rear set up then showed the correct figures.

The rear trailing arms increase camber when the suspension compresses. This is by design. So lowering means increased camber. It's unavoidable.

It would appear lowering below 20mm at the rear is not recomended.


Ps, pedders also do a rear camber correction kit, consisting of excentricly adjustable rear trailing arm bushes. These are designed to correct the camber caused by lowering.
Had a feeling you might comment on this Chris. The link I put on was for the camber adjusting bushes not poly ones. Are these hard to change as per my original post? If they are a pain I might just go with the suggested rubber pad option. That sounds easier to do than the bushes.
Logged
Back in the MV6 again now

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #9 on: 09 February 2013, 15:12:42 »

Sorry, yes. As your link.

Can't comment on fitting the bushes in the link, as I went the other route, which is cirtainly cheaper. ;) although I also can't comment on the longevity of the added pads route either. The pads may compress more over time, or some other unforeseen issue. In all honesty, the pads could be described as a bodge. It's not the correct way really. But having fitted new tyres that where wearing unevenly, I needed a quick solution. Which worked.

Up to you. :)
Logged

2woody

  • Omega Baron
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Northumberland
  • Posts: 2374
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #10 on: 09 February 2013, 23:32:31 »

Camber-correction bushes in either poly or rubber are a good solution when used in the outer location. They aren't suitable for the inner location because of the camber-correction system as Chris correctly pointed out.
Logged

MV6Danny

  • Intermediate Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Swindon, Wiltshire
  • Posts: 491
  • Driving at the speed of light
    • 99 irmscher mv6 3l Manual
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #11 on: 14 February 2013, 00:34:18 »

Thanks for the advice  :y
Logged
Back in the MV6 again now

Andy89

  • Junior Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Norway
  • Posts: 248
    • 97 3.0 MV6
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #12 on: 22 February 2013, 20:55:24 »

Camber-correction bushes in either poly or rubber are a good solution when used in the outer location. They aren't suitable for the inner location because of the camber-correction system as Chris correctly pointed out.

Now i'm no suspension expert, but i'm guessing there's a reason they made them with much more rubber on the inner one?

chrisgixer:
What do you mean by "the suspension can bind"?
I have had no problems with these fitted, so i'm just curious as to what is the problem with them. (I did not understand what you said the first time, as i'm not English.)

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear Camber
« Reply #13 on: 22 February 2013, 21:20:09 »

Yes sorry.

Bind= seize/stick/get stuck. When compressed the suspension may stop working. Either refuse to compress any more or stay compressed and refuse to rebound.

Rear tie rod is also know as a camber correction bar. It needs the rubber bush to be soft and deform as the suspension compresses and the tie rod pulls on the rear trailing arm, to correct the camber/toe.

Rear tie rod was an addition to the omega A/Carlton rear subframe for the omega B  that we know now.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.014 seconds with 17 queries.