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[kluku5]

What a great video, cheers I hope my tale isn't going to end like the car's in the video

So really you don't even need the leak-down tester. That's great cause my compression tester arrived today and I can use the hoses from that just like Eric in the video described

[Webby the Bear]

What a great video, cheers I hope my tale isn't going to end like the car's in the video

So really you don't even need the leak-down tester. That's great cause my compression tester arrived today and I can use the hoses from that just like Eric in the video described

I recommend ETCG for everything automotive. he's got over 300 vids and goes in to detaiol about everything 

as for what he does in this vid.... if you just hook up your compression test lead to some compressed air (if you have it) and take the shrader vale out the lead (tyre valve remover - 50p from eGay) then run compressed air straight in to the cylinders and locate the broken/nackered valves from there 

[kluku5]

Lucky for me I can get my hands on a compressor

Just to be clear, do I need to reattach the plenum in order to keep throttle open or is there some other way?

[Webby the Bear]

Lucky for me I can get my hands on a compressor

Just to be clear, do I need to reattach the plenum in order to keep throttle open or is there some other way?

usually you'd just remove the bagpipe fittings, open up the throttle butterflies by hand and listen to it from there.

however if youre in a position where you've stripped the plenum/inlets off i don't see why youd just look/listen for air gushing out the inlets instead 

[kluku5]

Actually I meant when doing the compression test, they say you need to fully open the throttle. But since the plenum is off anyway, I guess the throttle is "all the way open", or does it have something to do with TPS, which would be unplugged when plenum is off?

[Webby the Bear]

Actually I meant when doing the compression test, they say you need to fully open the throttle. But since the plenum is off anyway, I guess the throttle is "all the way open", or does it have something to do with TPS, which would be unplugged when plenum is off?

Got ya..... sadly i don't know mate soz 

[Andy H]

Lucky for me I can get my hands on a compressor

Just to be clear, do I need to reattach the plenum in order to keep throttle open or is there some other way?

The intention is to allow each cylinder to draw in as much air as it wants to. There is no clever electrical reason for holding the throttle open. Removing the inlet manifold entirely would work just as well

[kluku5]

Understood, cheers

[kluku5]

Began with the dismantling today, as I got no smarter from leak down test. Probably because of cheap compression tester hose, which I couldn't get into plug hole tight enough. Air gushed out from plug hole

Anyway, got the rear cambelt cover off and found this:


It's the same knock sensor cable, which as you can see I already have patched before, but I never saw that it was pretty much destroyed about 5 cm further down.

Also got off both cams on bank 1 and called it a day. Intake lifters on cylinder 3 have just a little play when push with fingers, but others were tight. Which way are they supposed to be, real tight or a little loose?

Also as you might notice the engine block is quite gunky downwards from cylinder head. Could this be a problem with HG?

[kluku5]

Haven't been here awhile, so just an update.

Took both heads off and discovered up-down play in all six pistons. The 2-4-6 pistons (all three) are also quite burnt (round at upper and bottom edges) and all three cylinder are dry and rough for the finger. Bank 1-3-5 on the other hand is very smooth and pistons are good too (not burnt, but have play).

Now things have got so far, I've already have another engine block (150€ and 50€ gas money, 400km alltogether) from a scrapyard. Decided not to replace heads. Need to figure out how to get the engine out, put together the new one and drop it in

Also bank 2-4-6 HG was knackered at one corner, it had a visible oil leak once I got the head off. It's also visible that coolant has gone from on channel over to another (on both heads), so it's clear that HG's have been there too long.

[Webby the Bear]

Hi Kluku,

What did your compression and leak down tests reveal?

You mention you've decided not to replace the heads. Have you checked the valves are ok following your timing previously being out?

[kluku5]

Hey,

compression was about 5 BAR on bank 1-3-5 (cams were on mark on this side) and 0 on the other side. Didn't find where air went with leak-down test.

All valves seem to be fine, at least to the naked eye.

Remember in a post I wrote that the engine is turning round a little difficult? Well here's what I think:

I believe sometime somewhere an oil channel got blocked, hense the dry cylinders. Due to no lubrication on one side, the engine is having trouble turning over. At the same time cambelt is nearing it's deadline to be changed (about 3-4000km left according to numbers). And the result is, due to no lubrication the cambelt jumps. Also maybe the pistons are burnt because of no lubrication?

I have no idea why the pistons have some play in them though.

I am no expert on those matters though, and it was the very first time i have ever taken an engine apart that much.

[Webby the Bear]

have you had the valves out? the problem with just eye balling it is they could look ok but be leaking.

so the compression on each cylinder was 5 bar? on your leak down did you hear much air escaping out of the dipstick tube or bbubbles in the coolant?

[albitz]

Fill the combustion chambers with paraffin or similar (with heads upside down of course) and leave for a while to see how much leaks through the valve seats into the ports..If any valves are damaged it will seep through pretty quickly.If some seeps through over a long period of time it may just be acceptable wear and tear on valve seats.

[kluku5]

Yeah I forgot to mention I took all valves out, and none seem to be bent

Before that I did what you suggested Albitz, only with petrol, and true enough, the valves were leaking. It was in a shaded place, so it couldn't have evaporated, some petrol was still there the next day. But since they seem not to be bent and don't have any collision marks, I think they just need lapping.

And Webby, magically I didn't hear air escape anywhere, no bubbles in coolant nor out the dipstick, none out of exhaust nor intake :S
On bank 1-3-5 all cylinders were 5 BAR.