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[Kevin Wood]

Pistons and bores are lubricated by splash from oil thrown off the crankshaft, so difficult to see what might have starved it of oil, except that due to the direction of crank rotation, the 2,4,6 bank might naturally get a little less splash.

[Webby the Bear]

Yeah I forgot to mention I took all valves out, and none seem to be bent

Before that I did what you suggested Albitz, only with petrol, and true enough, the valves were leaking. It was in a shaded place, so it couldn't have evaporated, some petrol was still there the next day. But since they seem not to be bent and don't have any collision marks, I think they just need lapping.

And Webby, magically I didn't hear air escape anywhere, no bubbles in coolant nor out the dipstick, none out of exhaust nor intake :S
On bank 1-3-5 all cylinders were 5 BAR.

Fair enough mate. then i'm officially stumped..... 5 bar and the pressure loss not found  over to the experts on this one 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Just re-read this thread.

Many things are not adding up.

1) It would not have run at all if three cylinders had no compression and the other three only 5 bar
2) The vehicle passed an emmissions test so combustion must have been good
3) The system was potentialy reporting an air leak

And now we are in new donk territory.

[kluku5]

1) It ran great when I got it back from the garage except: No power, didn't rev over 5000rpm. I did the compression test after it broke down again.
2) Again, I literally drove straight from the garage to MOT. Car broke down a couple of days after that.
3) Don't know about this one, but surely an air leak won't leave 3 cylinders dry.

Now, the valves were leaking, and no oil on one side, so I guess the rings on those pistons aren't too healthy either. Probably that's why it had such poor compression?

If "new" healthy block and servicing both heads + new gaskets won't fix this car, I really don't know what will..

[kluku5]

So, can anyone give me original part numbers on these:

• Head gaskets (and bolts)
• Camcover gaskets
• Coolant bridge gaskets
• Exhaust manifold gaskets (both between the head and front downpipe)
• All the gaskets in inlet
• Lower/smaller oil pan (<-is this the correct name in English?) gasket
• Valve stem seals

If anyone more experienced sees something missing please say what.
I will offcourse replace water pump and oil filter.

I have yet to check the crank and cam seals.
Also, is there some kind of gasket between the block and the big coolant pipe, that comes from the radiator and runs to the back of engine?

I also went to a local car parts store and asked them the total for this list, and I want to see if they can get me original parts and see the price difference. No need to say I don't want to do this job twice

[kluku5]

And some more questions..

Got the engine out, it came a lot easier then I imagined it would:


The brilliant work quality of one of the local garages, the filter was in the housing exactly like this:


Why is this white line there?


On to the serious stuff..

The cylinder head on which the cambelt had jumped, is "bubbly" around the top of the cylinder for somekind of a reason:


The other head for comparison:


And lastly this.
It's about half or even less than half a millimetre, both heads are like this. the question is, can I get away with this, or do I need to get them skimmed?

[kluku5]

What a day.

I only now noticed that the new engine's pistons don't have valve "pockets" in them, but my old engine does. The pistons on the new engine also don't come up as far as on the old engine, so I don't think the pistons and valves are not gonna come into contact.

Could this actually be a preFL engine block that they sold me?

If it is a preFL engine, am I ok to put the heads from the old engine on it?
It would help a lot if someone knows and could answer

[kluku5]

Sorry for my ignorance, I found the engine stamp on the new engine, and it's actually a 3.2

I just got it in place, all's fine, but..

I managed to snap one bolt that holds drive plate and torque converter together. What would be the most simple way to fix this? Could I glue the bolt head into the hole (the other half of the bolt is in), or does it make much difference, if I leave it as is? I know things have to be balanced there, but I'd hate to move the engine again to drill it out...

Next, can I fit the 3.0 liter cylinder heads onto 3.2 or should I find 3.2 heads too? If You say I need 3.2 heads, what about ignition system, since the 3.2 engine doesn't have such DIS pack like the 3.0 I believe? And if I do need new heads, should I get them with camshafts or can I drop in my own from the 3.0?

This topic has had little replies lately, and I know that some of my questions may sound odd to You, but it would be a HUGE help if you could add your two cents.