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[TheBoy]

How much water does it hold (not measured yet, approx 1.4m, not sure on height, upstairs so slightly taller, single rad)?

Can I get away with closing the valves either end (one is only a thermo one), rather than drain down, as I lack a hose to drain.

Are the nuts a std size, if so what, as I'll need to buy a spanner.


Guess what my task is today

[Shackeng]

How much water does it hold (not measured yet, approx 1.4m, not sure on height, upstairs so slightly taller, single rad)?

Can I get away with closing the valves either end (one is only a thermo one), rather than drain down, as I lack a hose to drain.

Are the nuts a std size, if so what, as I'll need to buy a spanner.


Guess what my task is today

Certainly you can get away with valve closure, borrow Mrs TB's small baking pan and place under one of the valves, and after ensuring both valves closed, (you may have to remove the thermo top unit to ensure that is shut,) crack one connection slowly and gradually drain it into pan (do not open bleed valve until necessary to get all the water out). When removing rad, remember there will still be a few ml of, usually horribly black, water/sediment still remaining.  Nuts are about 21mm, not always the same.

After fitting new rad with a pressurised system, recharge to required, 1 bar, pressure, and bleed system as necessary, non-pressurised will top up from your header tank, but bleeding is still required. HTH:y

[TheBoy]

Ah, how do I remove thermo unit... ...I was just gonna turn it to its lowest setting 

[TheBoy]

Also, just ptfe tape on the new threads, nothing more?

[MR MISTER]

I can't see Shackeng's reply until I quote 

It's there now

[Shackeng]

Sorry kept adding bits.  I use ptfe tape and Jet-blue, as there is nothing worse than a slight weep. The thermo top should be removable depending on make, if not, it should close at coldest setting.

[Shackeng]

Ah, how do I remove thermo unit... ...I was just gonna turn it to its lowest setting 

Is your system pressurised or header tank?

[TheBoy]

Ah, how do I remove thermo unit... ...I was just gonna turn it to its lowest setting 

Is your system pressurised or header tank?

Its a proper system

So header tank

[SIR Philbutt]

valves close off the system not the rad you will have to drain it

OR

put some old towels under each end,
close valves (TRV must be past * to be off),
place something under bottom of rad (i use my dewalt drill box)
loosen the nuts off the rad,
lift rad off hooks and tilt until top of rad is on floor
remove valve connections and lift rad so upside down (make sure bleed is shut)
You can then empty contents outside

Ta Daaa 

Practice before doing you have to be quick
Make sure pipes have some movement so that you can lift offf hooks

HTH
Phil

WARNING - just seen - removing the thermo valve top OPENS it not shuts it

[TheBoy]

Also, no option to undo bleed valve - thats the reason it needs replacing, its all swollen in that area, looks like rusted under the paintwork, and already showing the signs of a gentle weep.

Noticed, as I thought I should just test the heating before I allow her control back to the thermostat

[MR MISTER]

Also, no option to undo bleed valve - thats the reason it needs replacing, its all swollen in that area, looks like rusted under the paintwork, and already showing the signs of a gentle weep.

Noticed, as I thought I should just test the heating before I allow her control back to the thermostat

Sounds like it's been weeping for a while, that's why it's rusty.

[TheBoy]

shitty microbore pipework, so should be some flexibility in pipes.


Screwfix rad OK, seeing as they are open Sundays? Persumably Rad doesn't need painting etc?

[Shackeng]

Ah, how do I remove thermo unit... ...I was just gonna turn it to its lowest setting 

Is your system pressurised or header tank?

Its a proper system

So header tank

You will know if the valves are closed, if you start draining with Mrs TB sat in the loft next the header tank, she will shout stop, when the fill valve opens if you haven't switched both rad valves off correctly.

[TheBoy]

Also, no option to undo bleed valve - thats the reason it needs replacing, its all swollen in that area, looks like rusted under the paintwork, and already showing the signs of a gentle weep.

Noticed, as I thought I should just test the heating before I allow her control back to the thermostat

Sounds like it's been weeping for a while, that's why it's rusty.

I reckon its rusted from inside, as its swollen along top, (presumably) rusted under the paint. Dried rust marks at bottom, with is what makes me think its weeped. No stains/marks on carpet.

May have bee like this for a while, as there was a desk hiding it, which has only been moved to allow those useless retards at Evander 6 trips to fit 3 windows.

[Shackeng]

shitty microbore pipework, so should be some flexibility in pipes.


Screwfix rad OK, seeing as they are open Sundays? Persumably Rad doesn't need painting etc?

Yep, they have different grades.