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[Shackeng]

I have a 3.0 bar Monsoon fitted, they do a 4.0 bar as well, from about 15 years ago, works well, and sufficient power to feed to separate showers at once.

[chrisgixer]

Yes ours runs all the non mains water outlets in the house.

I can't help think its a bit if a waste just running a shower. But depends in your set up and pressure from the rest of the system I guess.

Edit to add, although noise is also a factor.

[Kevin Wood]

Yes ours runs all the non mains water outlets in the house.

I can't help think its a bit if a waste just running a shower. But depends in your set up and pressure from the rest of the system I guess.

Also depends if it's a problem having a damned great pump starting up every time you flush the loo.

[chrisgixer]

Yes ours runs all the non mains water outlets in the house.

I can't help think its a bit if a waste just running a shower. But depends in your set up and pressure from the rest of the system I guess.

Also depends if it's a problem having a damned great pump starting up every time you flush the loo.

Yes I just edited that post re noise. Re systens I find its a trade off. They can be noisy and slow to fill in standard form anyway. So depending on that particular systen, it can pay to have it fill up quicker, there by less noise over all.

It might be easier to install the pump to feed the whole house. Depends on the layout and requirements etc.

[Kevin Wood]

It might be easier to install the pump to feed the whole house. Depends on the layout and requirements etc.

Yep, and something I've been thinking about, as modern tap fittings seem to be hopelessly inadequate on gravity fed systems. We have a bath that takes 20 minutes to fill, and the new(ish) kitchen mixer tap is pretty hopeless as well.

I might just go for an unvented hot water tank instead, though.  Or put up with it as I already have for 9 years.

[SIR Philbutt]

Cost for a third party to do it are of course dependent on complexity/Parts required.
You will also need electrical work, fused spur & socket so that contributes to it.
So if you wanted a guesstimate 100 - 200. Budgeting 500 ish for the job will prevent any surprises.

WOW I hear you say - that's why I originally said about a new boiler, as that is about 30% the cost of a new install 

HTH
Phil

[Shackeng]

It might be easier to install the pump to feed the whole house. Depends on the layout and requirements etc.

Yep, and something I've been thinking about, as modern tap fittings seem to be hopelessly inadequate on gravity fed systems. We have a bath that takes 20 minutes to fill, and the new(ish) kitchen mixer tap is pretty hopeless as well.

I might just go for an unvented hot water tank instead, though.  Or put up with it as I already have for 9 years.

I only really need the pump for the hot feed, as I have had to fit a pressure reducer on the rising main due high pressure in our area.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Cost to install is VERY dependent on what the current installation is like.

We have an ESP100 Salamander which is very good, but when installing, I had to do quite a bit of re-plumbing so was a good days work.

I have also fitted one of these:

http://www.bathroomsandshowersdirect.co.uk/mira-digital/mira-vision/mira-vision-11797002-pumped-mixer-ceiling-fed-chrome--special-offer?&utm_source=google&utm_medium=merchant%2Bcenter&utm_campaign=products&gclid=CJKBkcXWmLsCFVMPtAodNhsA9g

Which if your hot and cold water pipes come from the ceiling makes installation very easy.

The pipes are behind the tiles, would mean stripping the tiles and plasterboard behind the shower.

Depends if they come down from the ceiling or up from the floor.

If your intending on not disturbng the pipe work then your stuck with a surface mount thermostatic power shower with integrated pump and struggling with the wiring.

Or you end up pumping the full system.

Or re-plumbing a lot of bits.

[MR MISTER]

Our upstairs cold water is mains fed. If I open the stop cock fully the cistern on the toilet fills in about 10 seconds.

[Shackeng]

I fitted mine in the airing cupboard and plumbed it so that it just feeds two showers and the bath.

[Auto Addict]

I've been advised I need one of these, as it's only going to drive the shower in the en-suite.

Airing cupboard mounted.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/salamander-ct50-twin-positive-head-shower-pump-with-isolators-1-5bar/46231

Hot and cold tanks are large enough to cope.

[AndyRoid]

I've been advised I need one of these, as it's only going to drive the shower in the en-suite.

Airing cupboard mounted.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/salamander-ct50-twin-positive-head-shower-pump-with-isolators-1-5bar/46231

Hot and cold tanks are large enough to cope.

That will be more than adequate, just make sure the mains supply to the pump has some form of RCD protection.

[Marks DTM Calib]

The CT50 is to be avoided as the pump type looks to be a cheapo universal motor type (so has brushes, commutator and will run at higher speed) and also uses a regenerative pump which is not nearly as efficient as a centrifugal type (but can be run at higher rpm and is hence more suited to a Uni motor type setup).

What you idealy want is a cap start induction motor based one with a centrifugal pump setup.

That gives you the RSP50 which ticks these boxes if going down the Salamander route.

Stuart turner as supposed to be the best pumps you can get but do cost more:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/stuart-turner-monsoon-20-bar-1653-18610?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CKHVkIShm7sCFWzHtAodTHMAEg

Note, to meet the installation requirements of salamander, it needs to be plugged into a 13A socket outlet (a nice easy way around meeting latest wiring regs if a socket outlet is available), stuart turner require wiring into a fused outlet with RCD (30mA) protection either localy or at the consumer unit.

So in summary, bad advice on the pump you have been recommended, sorry.

[Shackeng]

I've been advised I need one of these, as it's only going to drive the shower in the en-suite.

Airing cupboard mounted.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/salamander-ct50-twin-positive-head-shower-pump-with-isolators-1-5bar/46231

Hot and cold tanks are large enough to cope.

Slightly cheaper here even with 3.15% cashback through Screwfix bathrooms/Topcashback.

http://www.bathroomsandshowersdirect.co.uk/salamander-pumps/salamander-pumps/salamander-ct-50-twin-shower-pump-15-bar?&utm_source=google&utm_medium=merchant%2Bcenter&utm_campaign=products&gclid=COCa25Ojm7sCFbMPtAodSHEACA#.UqGXeuIf7As

[Auto Addict]

The CT50 is to be avoided as the pump type looks to be a cheapo universal motor type (so has brushes, commutator and will run at higher speed) and also uses a regenerative pump which is not nearly as efficient as a centrifugal type (but can be run at higher rpm and is hence more suited to a Uni motor type setup).

What you idealy want is a cap start induction motor based one with a centrifugal pump setup.

That gives you the RSP50 which ticks these boxes if going down the Salamander route.

Stuart turner as supposed to be the best pumps you can get but do cost more:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/stuart-turner-monsoon-20-bar-1653-18610?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CKHVkIShm7sCFWzHtAodTHMAEg

Note, to meet the installation requirements of salamander, it needs to be plugged into a 13A socket outlet (a nice easy way around meeting latest wiring regs if a socket outlet is available), stuart turner require wiring into a fused outlet with RCD (30mA) protection either localy or at the consumer unit.

So in summary, bad advice on the pump you have been recommended, sorry.

Thanks Mark, will take your advice on board