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[tunnie]

It's now very likely that my bike will be pressed into commuting for the first time (around 50 miles a day), around early Feb time I think. Combination of traffic and parking restrictions here at work. Now the GS barely moved last year  I think it did a few hundred miles tops 

At the end of 2012 after it's big Scotland trip, it had a service at BMW, oil dropped ect. Now it's getting old and newer models are out, it's time to DIY it. My first job will be oil, it looks straight forward and bought the custom tool for filter removal.

But I'm not sure when to change it? The oil that is in there is just a few hundred miles old, but it's been stood still 95% if that time in the garage. I see a few options:

1) Drain and replace it now, without starting.
2) Jump start the bike and warm it up for 5 mins, then drain & replace.
3) Start using the bike, then in say 250 miles, drop the oil & replace.


Thoughts? I'm thinking option 3, as that should mix the oil up nicely and should remove most of the old stuff when changing?

[Seth]

I see a few options:

1) Drain and replace it now, without starting.
2) Jump start the bike and warm it up for 5 mins, then drain & replace.
3) Start using the bike, then in say 250 miles, drop the oil & replace.


Thoughts? I'm thinking option 3, as that should mix the oil up nicely and should remove most of the old stuff when changing?

Great minds think alike ... tunnie lad!

[aaronjb]

If it were a car that had been stored for a length of time I'd drop the oil, refill with cheap(er) stuff, drive until good and hot, come home and drop and refill with my usual choice of oil - two filter changes.

But given it's a modern bike, only stored for a year, presumably filled with fully or semi synthetic modern oil - I'd probably go for 3, too.

[tunnie]

Cheers Chaps 

Oil is what ever BuMW specified, think it's fully synth, as it's a dry clutch I was planning to lob 10/40 GM Semi in it, think it should be fine on that, as the oil is not used in the clutch.

[omega3000]

It's now very likely that my bike will be pressed into commuting for the first time (around 50 miles a day), around early Feb time I think. Combination of traffic and parking restrictions here at work. Now the GS barely moved last year  I think it did a few hundred miles tops 

At the end of 2012 after it's big Scotland trip, it had a service at BMW, oil dropped ect. Now it's getting old and newer models are out, it's time to DIY it. My first job will be oil, it looks straight forward and bought the custom tool for filter removal.

But I'm not sure when to change it? The oil that is in there is just a few hundred miles old, but it's been stood still 95% if that time in the garage. I see a few options:

1) Drain and replace it now, without starting.
2) Jump start the bike and warm it up for 5 mins, then drain & replace.
3) Start using the bike, then in say 250 miles, drop the oil & replace.


Thoughts? I'm thinking option 3, as that should mix the oil up nicely and should remove most of the old stuff when changing?

Wont a chain wrench get that off 

[tunnie]

Nope 

[tunnie]

[Sir Tigger KC]

Cheers Chaps 

Oil is what ever BuMW specified, think it's fully synth, as it's a dry clutch I was planning to lob 10/40 GM Semi in it, think it should be fine on that, as the oil is not used in the clutch.

I thought bike oils were different specs to car oils? 

[tunnie]

Cheers Chaps 

Oil is what ever BuMW specified, think it's fully synth, as it's a dry clutch I was planning to lob 10/40 GM Semi in it, think it should be fine on that, as the oil is not used in the clutch.

I thought bike oils were different specs to car oils? 

Only if the clutch is using the same oil, in my case it is not, the clutch is dry, engine oil is only used in the engine.

The latest GS has a wet clutch and has to have a mineral based oil which you don't get in cars 

[Kevin Wood]

The only problem with the current oil might be that it has absorbed moisture when laid up, in my view. For that reason, you want to change it before running the engine. One you've warmed it up, the moisture will get driven off through the breathers and you might as well just leave the old oil in it.

[05omegav6]

A digression, but I take it that's not your Pontiac Aztec in the backround

[tunnie]

The only problem with the current oil might be that it has absorbed moisture when laid up, in my view. For that reason, you want to change it before running the engine. One you've warmed it up, the moisture will get driven off through the breathers and you might as well just leave the old oil in it.

So you think drop it before starting?

A digression, but I take it that's not your Pontiac Aztec in the backround

Yeah I noticed that too, but this chaps guides are rather good 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Option 2 for me, start from a known base line

And you can bet your life the BuMW oil will have been synthetic.

It wont hold a lot of oil anyway so will be cheap to do.

[tunnie]

Option 2 for me, start from a known base line

And you can bet your life the BuMW oil will have been synthetic.

It wont hold a lot of oil anyway so will be cheap to do.

Around 4L i think.... 10/40 Semi would be ok? I think it was recommend oil spec few years ago.


Humm so several votes for each, but master recommending 2. Hummm!

[Sir Tigger KC]

I think you should think more about what you're going to put in rather than when.... 

A quick scan suggests the recommended is 15w50 Fully Synthetic and it looks like BMW recommend Castrol, although I saw a suggestion that's for business reasons rather than engineering.... 

This is what's making me chuckle though.... You wouldn't chuck Castrol 15w50 full fat in your Omega just because you have some kicking around for your bike! 

Your bike is worth a hell of a lot more than your Omega!! Do it properly!!