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[tunnie]

Not the one listed there, also that chart (Seen it before) is twin cam boxers. Different engine 

10/40 is going in 

[tunnie]

Anyway back to my original question, it's either warm and drop or use it for a bit.

Master recommends warm then drop, which makes sense. Also not sure how quickly I can do work, once the bike is being used. So might as well do the work first, as I also have more time.

[Sir Tigger KC]

Not the one listed there, also that chart (Seen it before) is twin cam boxers. Different engine 

10/40 is going in 

That chart to me reads all boxer engines not a specific one....    How can you tell? 

So what did Opie recommend, just out of interest?   

[tunnie]

Not the one listed there, also that chart (Seen it before) is twin cam boxers. Different engine 

10/40 is going in 

That chart to me reads all boxer engines not a specific one....    How can you tell? 

So what did Opie recommend, just out of interest?   

It shows the GS with twin cam engined boxer, simples. 

1) So here is the manual for my bike:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/803897/Motorbike/Service/R_0307_RM_0606_R1200GS_01.pdf

See Page 140.

10/40 is listed.

2) Called BMW asking for filter prices (£12 it turns out), asked about oil, advised oil grades change as new ones are released as they are 'better' (Newer tech) - Confirmed at launch, 10/40 was officially the recommended. (third time I am stating this to you?)

So the book says 10/40, the bloke at BMW says 10/40 are you happy now?  Can you add anything to my original actual question in the post?  - Which is what I was asking about.

[Sir Tigger KC]

Page 138.  Engine type. 2 overhead cam shafts. = Twin cam.  No?     

The manual states 20w50 for your bike, but also lists 10w40 as permissable.  The BMW/Castrol chart states 20w50 for boxer engines.  If it was my £4000 bike I know what I would use, however as Chris pointed out earlier it's a boxer so it'd probably run OK with olive oil in it!! 

I'm just trying to be helpful. That's all. The irony here is that you're usually the first to jump down someones throat if they suggest a cheap bodge on their £500 Omega and regularly lecture folk on the importance of using correct parts, oils and fluids.... 

In answer to your original question.  It'll make little difference when you change the oil! 

BTW what did Opie recommend?   

[tunnie]

Page 138.  Engine type. 2 overhead cam shafts. = Twin cam.  No?     

The manual states 20w50 for your bike, but also lists 10w40 as permissable.  The BMW/Castrol chart states 20w50 for boxer engines.  If it was my £4000 bike I know what I would use, however as Chris pointed out earlier it's a boxer so it'd probably run OK with olive oil in it!! 

I'm just trying to be helpful. That's all. The irony here is that you're usually the first to jump down someones throat if they suggest a cheap bodge on their £500 Omega and regularly lecture folk on the importance of using correct parts, oils and fluids.... 

In answer to your original question.  It'll make little difference when you change the oil! 

BTW what did Opie recommend?   

2010 introduced a later engine, known as 'twin cam' (well that is what all the press said) which was a tweaked engine compared to mine, it felt very different to ride engine. wise. So you would rather I go by a chart that is very general, than the hand book I got with the bike? 

Appreciate the advice, but it's no bodge. I've been researching it for some time across a number of forums from peoples actual experience. As said earlier, the oil specs change over the years as certain ones are discontinued/improved. As BMW use Castrol, if they decide to drop type, they have to change the recommendation.

When I called BMW today and stated 20w50, they said they now are told to specify 15w50! But he stated the air cooled boxer ran quite happily on 10w40, when launched they specified that. It's only as technology has moved on, they specify different oils.

Also manufactures specify a lot of things, Vauxhall suggest 20k oil change intervals amoungst other things, WIM have a custom geo setup, outside Vx spec. Do we always do what Manufactures specify?

So it's no bodge to use it

So far I've had people vote for two of the 3 options, drop it or ride it. With MarksDTM suggesting it is worth dropping it early due to moisture, I bow to his knowledge on that. So does make a difference.

Not asked Opie oils as I'm not really interested in what they say.

At the end of the day its Boxer engine as Chris says & I rarely rev it about 6k rpm... so it's not exactly pushed!

[chrisgixer]

Wow up. I wasn't suggesting that the rider wasn't stressing the engine. Appologies if taken that way.

More that that engine isn't stressed when ragged to hell and back. It's low revving and under tuned. I'd go as far as to say it's not tuned at all but that would be unkind.

If there's this much concern, drop what's in the sump only, refill on cheap semi. Italian tune up to clean the damp out ,if there is any at all which I doubt, then do your top boll@x change with new filter and super dooper oil, or whatever you decide .

There, everyone's happy.


Thing is there's a lot if old pony about laying bikes up for any period. Start it up once a month and such. Rubbish. Provided the engine was up to temp on a run last yine it was shut down it will be absolutely fine.
 I haven't read the whole thread but I bet the oil that's still in there is well within service life anyway.

Ok everyone pampers there favourite toy but really, that lump will run with chip fat in the sump no problem. It's almost bomb proof. Just don't drop it on its head(s)

[aaronjb]

Wow up. I wasn't suggesting that the rider wasn't stressing the engine. Appologies if taken that way.

This is tunnie we're talking about .. the only man who could get 40mpg out of a 3.2 Omega..

[omega3000]

Ok everyone pampers there favourite toy but really, that lump will run with chip fat in the sump no problem. It's almost bomb proof. Just don't drop it on its head

Mite run on chip fat in the tank as well 

[Sir Tigger KC]

So you would rather I go by a chart that is very general, than the hand book I got with the bike? 

They say exactly the same Tunnie!!! 20w50!!!   

When I called BMW today and stated 20w50, they said they now are told to specify 15w50!

15w50? Huh??     

15/50 still not right one though 

   

And about when to change the oil, I said it would make little difference, not no difference!! I stand by that. 

Look I'm starting to argue just for the fun of it now, so here are my final thoughts then I'll shut up! 

That bike still has a fair amount of value left in it, so why not treat it with the same love as you would your £500 Omega!    If you're going to DIY then you should think about maintaining the value as well and that means using correct parts,oils and fluids. 

If I came along with £4000 in my sticky paws to buy your bike and you told me that you'd been using 10w40 GM oil 'The same as I use in my car' and I saw your £500 banger (No offence!) I wouldn't be very impressed. 

The reality is that it'll tank on forever on GM but I should think that when the dealers and forum gurus say it's fine to use 10w40 they probably mean a 10w40 formulated for bikes not cars.    Something like this:-

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-727-castrol-power-1-4t-10w-40-formerly-castrol-power-1-gps-4t-10w-40-semi-synthetic-motorcycle-4-stroke-engine-oil.aspx

Your bike, your choice, but you might regret it come selling time if you havn't done it properly now to save a few sheckles!!   

[tunnie]

Wow up. I wasn't suggesting that the rider wasn't stressing the engine. Appologies if taken that way.

This is tunnie we're talking about .. the only man who could get 40mpg out of a 3.2 Omega..

 

Wow up. I wasn't suggesting that the rider wasn't stressing the engine. Appologies if taken that way.

More that that engine isn't stressed when ragged to hell and back. It's low revving and under tuned. I'd go as far as to say it's not tuned at all but that would be unkind.

If there's this much concern, drop what's in the sump only, refill on cheap semi. Italian tune up to clean the damp out ,if there is any at all which I doubt, then do your top boll@x change with new filter and super dooper oil, or whatever you decide .

There, everyone's happy.


Thing is there's a lot if old pony about laying bikes up for any period. Start it up once a month and such. Rubbish. Provided the engine was up to temp on a run last yine it was shut down it will be absolutely fine.
 I haven't read the whole thread but I bet the oil that's still in there is well within service life anyway.

Ok everyone pampers there favourite toy but really, that lump will run with chip fat in the sump no problem. It's almost bomb proof. Just don't drop it on its head(s)

Cheers Chris, yeah it was last run around summer time 2013, had a good 100+ mile run at the time. Been parked up and not touched since.

I guess I could just start it and ride the damn thing then sort oil out in a few months, as said previously stuff that is there is practically brand new 

[Kevin Wood]

Chances are that the stuff that BMW put in it is to a much higher spec. than GM semi-syn, so if it's only done a couple of hundred miles why change it at all?

BTW: The time to change the oil would have been before laying it up in the first place, to get rid of all the combustion by products in the crankcase which will react with any damp and form acids.

[tunnie]

Chances are that the stuff that BMW put in it is to a much higher spec. than GM semi-syn, so if it's only done a couple of hundred miles why change it at all?

BTW: The time to change the oil would have been before laying it up in the first place, to get rid of all the combustion by products in the crankcase which will react with any damp and form acids.

My concern was around 6 months of no use 

Yup, this was done after it's big Scotland trip, a service in late Sept I think, then laid up. Taken out once or twice in the summer post that. Since then been stood for around 6 months.

So am I getting concerned over nothing?

[Kevin Wood]

Yep.

[tunnie]

Yep.

Job jobbed then