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[firemoth]

Hi. I read on the manual that if replacing the battery it's got to be done within 15 seconds of ignition being turned off or the alarm goes off as has its own supply. Now my battery is dead. Struggles to start. I'm swapping with a known good one, but I've got a habit of doing it with engine running to not lose stereo settings etc etc. Will this cause any problems?

[zirk]

I normally just unlock the car and leave the key in the Ing. I always leave a door open though just in the Ecu locking throws a wobbly. If you need to co it with the car locked just unplug the bonnet switch. 

[firemoth]

I'm not worried about car locked / unlocked, windows down or up, or car sat on its roof (although I'd prefer not!) Just making sure I won't blow any ECU or anything by changing battery with engine running

[Bigron]

Are you saying that you run the engine without the battery connected?
NO, No and NO!!!!!
You will damage the alternator, as there is nothing to limit its output voltage, and likely the ECUs, etc.........
 

Ron.

[firemoth]

I always have before (in other cars) the alternator has the regulator built in. I know it creates little spikes which can hurt advanced very fancy ECUs, but the DTI isn't that fancy is it?

[Andy B]

I always have before (in other cars) the alternator has the regulator built in. I know it creates little spikes which can hurt advanced very fancy ECUs, but the DTI isn't that fancy is it?

Give it a try & see how much it costs if it all goes t1ts up! as Bigron says, it's a recipe for an expensive disaster 

[firemoth]

OK next one (related) is the CDR 2005 stereo coded? There isn't a code written anywhere and the audio guide manual doesn't list this model

[YZ250]

If you are concerned about radio code etc. (assuming you've not got the code) why not hook up jump leads from your car battery terminal connectors to your new battery, undo and remove the old battery, place the new battery in position, put the connectors on to the new battery and remove the jump leads. Cover the leads with rag to avoid shorting against the car body whilst doing the above. 
Failing that, undo the battery leads and clamp, ignition on, ignition off, whip off leads, replace battery, replace leads and your sorted. The 15 seconds warning is to stop the powersounder going off. 
I wouldn't be running it while changing the battery when there is no need to, bearing in mind the potential damage it could do. 

Edit:
Just re-read my post and it's not very clear what I meant. 

Jump leads from the car terminal clamps to the new battery terminals. Remove old battery, put new battery in place and nip up the terminal clamps. Then remove jump leads. That way the car has never lost 12V supply. 

[Andy B]

If the car battery is that flat, the radio will probably want a code anyway (assuming the requirement for a code hasn't been switched off  )

[firemoth]

It's not completely flat but only just starts in the morning. I give it a week before it just about doesn't start....

[Grrrrrr]

If you are concerned about radio code etc. (assuming you've not got the code) why not hook up jump leads from your car battery terminal connectors to your new battery, undo and remove the old battery, place the new battery in position, put the connectors on to the new battery and remove the jump leads. Cover the leads with rag to avoid shorting against the car body whilst doing the above. 
Failing that, undo the battery leads and clamp, ignition on, ignition off, whip off leads, replace battery, replace leads and your sorted. The 15 seconds warning is to stop the powersounder going off. 
I wouldn't be running it while changing the battery when there is no need to, bearing in mind the potential damage it could do. 

+1. And ditch the power-sounder if it hasn't already been done!

[firemoth]

As it happens I was showing the car off to my brother, locked the car with the bonnet popped, told him to open the bonnet expecting him to have a heart attack. All it did was put the bloody hazards on. I looked like a right Muppet