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[tidla]

Rear one is very hard to activate by revving, ya gota give it loads. Beyond any mechanical sympathy. Or tech 2 to test.


Might there be a vac leak somewhere?

Thanks Chris.

Thinking as long as it's warm it should be ok? 

I've gone round the whole engine with carb cleaner but not the multi ram piping. I'm thinking, after looking at marks vac pipe diagram, that I should look at all those connections and also the vac tanks?

Ime a vac leak needs to be quite bad for enough crab cleaner to get in. ...and what might draw in air at 4k or so, may not do so at tickover. A physical inspection, and wite often a wiggle in conjunction with the mk1 ear 'ole for hissing and changes in rpm often give results. Squeazing rubber vac pipes, and feeling your way along the plastic ones etc


Often, vac leaks aren't visible, as what's rubbed through is in the way of the hole it created. As it would... So to speak. Often the rubber joins in the 4mm plastic pipe split down one side or one way valves fail.

It does sound like inconsistent vac feed to me. Causing sluggish multi ram operation and loss of torque. So you press harder on the throttle, to the point it kicks down.

Is fuel economy high?

This will be about as much use.

[tidla]

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90499.0

vacuum should be present at the "T" piece which goes to both rams. (should be able to test with your finger on the end of the pipe)

[chrisgixer]

Rear one is very hard to activate by revving, ya gota give it loads. Beyond any mechanical sympathy. Or tech 2 to test.


Might there be a vac leak somewhere?

Thanks Chris.

Thinking as long as it's warm it should be ok? 

I've gone round the whole engine with carb cleaner but not the multi ram piping. I'm thinking, after looking at marks vac pipe diagram, that I should look at all those connections and also the vac tanks?

Ime a vac leak needs to be quite bad for enough crab cleaner to get in. ...and what might draw in air at 4k or so, may not do so at tickover. A physical inspection, and wite often a wiggle in conjunction with the mk1 ear 'ole for hissing and changes in rpm often give results. Squeazing rubber vac pipes, and feeling your way along the plastic ones etc


Often, vac leaks aren't visible, as what's rubbed through is in the way of the hole it created. As it would... So to speak. Often the rubber joins in the 4mm plastic pipe split down one side or one way valves fail.

It does sound like inconsistent vac feed to me. Causing sluggish multi ram operation and loss of torque. So you press harder on the throttle, to the point it kicks down.

Is fuel economy high?

This will be about as much use.

Can't comment too much, as I've not tried it extensively.... Carb cleaner I mean but strongly suspect its an old wives tale tbh. It "may" work to an extent, but needs so much to enter the inlet as to be pretty useless on small stuff like vac pipes and breathers. Plus those items go brittle enough through heat alone without carb cleaner adding to it, as groomer says.

...one day I might try it for the laugh though. Brake cleaner too perhaps? 

[chrisgixer]

Maybe next time a certain admin needs an lpg kit fitted we could try his inlets.










.....again.

[05omegav6]

Have you any gravel left

[chrisgixer]

Have you any gravel left

ooh yes. Me can't have too much gravel.




(...or a cracked egr pipe coupled with a stuck lifter combined to make a right racket)

[Webby the Bear]

Crab cleaner lol

Just a quickie before i start pulling vac lines looking for a hissing.....

If i pull one do i then have to start the car again to build up the vacuum again to be able to check other pipes? Dont want to wrongly diagnose cos of a silly mistake like that

[Webby the Bear]

Would pulling the vacuum lines at idle be of any benefit?

[Andy H]

Not really.
I think the heater controls leak all the time & hence mess up the multiram operation. I also think that the non return valves get tired and dirty and therefore become unable to hold a vacuum.

The later arrangement with two vacuum tanks seems to 'just work'. It doesn't matter if the heater controls leak continuously and fill the vac tank with fluff because the multirams have their own dedicated tank which only operates intermittently and stays clean as a result.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Andy.

I'll stick with the plan of pulling vac lines after engine shut off and report back post haste! 

[Webby the Bear]

Reet then boys n gals.

Ran the car for a couple of minutes. switched it off. pulled the following vac pipes... nothing! no hissing or any sense that vacuum was present. so irrespective of whether i manuyally made the atuators work... i have a definite leak, right?

[chrisgixer]

The vac tank reservoirs hold the negative pressure with engine off. Or there is no source of vacuum at all. (So you won't get a hiss engine off if all is well.)

You need to pull the relevant pipes off those to hear any hiss. One behind the pollen filter housing. One on the back of the bag pipes. One pipe to res will be a vac feed, so will hiss, tother will have a one way valve so won't hiss. Assuming the one way valves are working of course.

Any other vac pipes you'll need the engine running.


At this stage I'd say you best bet is to find the source of the hiss with engine running. Identify and fix that. Then test that the vac tanks are holding negative pressure.

....or just test drive the car and see if there's an improvement. If you find a load more torque has returned, go put feet up with a beer, Bear!

[Webby the Bear]

The vac tank reservoirs hold the negative pressure with engine off. Or there is no source of vacuum at all. (So you won't get a hiss engine off if all is well.)

You need to pull the relevant pipes off those to hear any hiss. One behind the pollen filter housing. One on the back of the bag pipes. One pipe to res will be a vac feed, so will hiss, tother will have a one way valve so won't hiss. Assuming the one way valves are working of course.

Any other vac pipes you'll need the engine running.


At this stage I'd say you best bet is to find the source of the hiss with engine running. Identify and fix that. Then test that the vac tanks are holding negative pressure.

....or just test drive the car and see if there's an improvement. If you find a load more torque has returned, go put feet up with a beer, Bear!

Thanks Chris.

You are well aware that, er, i'm pretty stoopid so mind if i just re-run that in my words so i understand........

The two vac resevoirs hold the vacuum with engine off. So i have to pull the vac feed line off the front resevoir and the vac feed line off the rear resevoir (behind pollen filter) to hear any hiss with engine off?

All other vac lines (like the ones i pulled off) will not hiss with engine off?

SO. I can check this hissing at the resevoirs. but i need to be finding the hissing with engine running.

whats the best way to do that?

[chrisgixer]

Mk 1 ear 'ole!

Just pull the vac lines off the res one at a time, see what happens. Run the engine briefly in between each time you pull a pipe. But be sure to put the correct pipe back each time.

So, run engine, engine off, pull a pipe off the back of the tank on the bag pipes. Listen. Refit.

Run engine, pull tother pipe off, etc.

Do the bag pipes first as the other one is behind the pollen filter side of the scuttle.

[Webby the Bear]

Spot on Chris, thanks for understanding that i am stoopid  and i do apologise for all the Q's but if i dont understand i hate it lol

Can i clarify that the front vac resevoir is this...


And the rear one i'll have to trace back folling the vac lines. i'm presuming removing pollen filter itself would help. does the housing itself remove also as is a bit tight in there