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[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Pads 5-25k depending on use...

Discs 10-50k depending on pad abuse

So 30,000 miles for both means a change may be needed.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

I should add that the 'brake pad warning light' is not illuminated.

Some neanderthal knuckledragger probably ripped the sensor apart when fitting  new discs and pads.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Doctor Opti, I wonder if you are in the habit of holding the car on the foot-brake for short pauses after normal road braking? You describe the classic symptoms of warped discs due to such action. With braking, obviously the discs become hot and cool when the brakes are released, but if you hold the car on the foot-brake the disc area between the brake pads does not get a chance to cool, whereas the rest of the disc does - hence differential cooling takes place and the disc warps.

Ron.

Guilty as charged, Ron.

[chrisgixer]

I should add that the 'brake pad warning light' is not illuminated.

Some neanderthal knuckledragger probably ripped the sensor apart when fitting the new discs and pads.

Ooooohohooo. There probably is not a member here that hasn't busted a warning sensor when changing pads. So you just insulted half the forum there Dr

May I suggest, a visual examination before any "diagnosis" is given, "Dr"!

Bloody Gp's they're all the same


Ps.... The warning light will not tell you if the discs are rusted on the inner face. Which is much more likely if those discs are on their second set of pads.

[Andy B]

Doctor Opti, I wonder if you are in the habit of holding the car on the foot-brake for short pauses after normal road braking? You describe the classic symptoms of warped discs due to such action. With braking, obviously the discs become hot and cool when the brakes are released, but if you hold the car on the foot-brake the disc area between the brake pads does not get a chance to cool, whereas the rest of the disc does - hence differential cooling takes place and the disc warps.

Ron.

Guilty as charged, Ron.

I think that goes for most of the rest of us too ........ especially with a proper gearbox, otherwise it'll creep forward. 

Bigron actually has that arse about face ..... the bit where the pads are held against the disc is the bit that cools faster than the rest of the disc because that is the heat sink, the rest of the disc is sitting in fresh air.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

The inside face of the passsenger side front disc. Good...bad.....or indifferent?

[05omegav6]

Frucked

[chrisgixer]

Fubar!

[cnj]

N.F.G. !! suggest work to the calipers is required in order to rectify the uneven wear.

[chrisgixer]

N.F.G. !! suggest work to the calipers is required in order to rectify the uneven wear.

It's not a caliper issue, or non that can be rectified simply by an owner as its part of the original design....but it is an age issue.

The only thing an owner can do is to buy pinged discs, or paint them with heat proof paint diy.

[cnj]

basing my assumption on the pictures shown led me to believe that the calliper was corroded and not allowing the pads to move freely and causing the uneven wear pattern in the photo's, but I did think that inferring the good doctor was past his prime was rather unfortunate  :http://images.omegaowners.com/forum/smf2000/Smileys/oofstd/rolleyes.gif:)

[chrisgixer]

N.F.G. !! suggest work to the calipers is required in order to rectify the uneven wear.

It's not a caliper issue, or non that can be rectified simply by an owner as its part of the original design....but it is an age issue.

The only thing an owner can do is to buy painted discs, or paint them with heat proof paint diy.

Edited typo. "Painted"

If the pads are examined there will be a corresponding wear mark on the pads as well. It seems that the rust wears the pads away, and simulationsly brakes the rust away as eventually the rust eats in from the outer edge and falls off on contract with the disk.

The result is a gap between the disk and pad friction material. There is no reason why this process should happen evenly around the disc so, inevitably, a judder takes place which usually the first the driver knows of it, unless he checks regularly.

The rust starts very early on in the discs life, if unpainted, and the splash guard is short of the disc at the bottom. This in conjunction with air flow and water under the car means the rust starts on the inboard face and works in from the outer edge, t give what's evident in the pic.

Paint on the discs doesn't actually last very long. Not much more than a year, but it holds the rust at bay long enough to wear the discs out BEFORE the rust gets to this stage. Which in this example, isn't too bad given the miles covered.

[chrisgixer]

basing my assumption on the pictures shown led me to believe that the calliper was corroded and not allowing the pads to move freely and causing the uneven wear pattern in the photo's, but I did think that inferring the good doctor was past his prime was rather unfortunate  :http://images.omegaowners.com/forum/smf2000/Smileys/oofstd/rolleyes.gif:)

That's two in one thread. We don't do assumptions here, if at all possible. And if we do we say we are assuming.

...and (lowers voice to a whisper) hes not actually a Dr, but don't tell him I told you so 

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

I suppose I'll have to go without food and water for a month and buy a matching set of discs and pads.

Genuine GM parts are silly money though so I may be forced to go the Mintex/Ebay route.......about £55.

I may not be the best mechanic in the world but changing the disc and pads on an Omega should be reasonably simple......shouldn't it?....





 

[Andy B]

I suppose I'll have to go without food and water for a month and buy a matching set of discs and pads.

Genuine GM parts are silly money though so I may be forced to go the Mintex/Ebay route.......about £55.

I may not be the best mechanic in the world but changing the disc and pads on an Omega should be reasonably simple......shouldn't it?....

A set of discs & pads is/was around £100