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[chrisgixer]

Should add, all springs will hold their own correct ride height. Except Sl springs. Hence the problem with them.

[chrisgixer]

It's also worth checking the condition of the sl shocks, before deciding which way you want to go with this.
 They have a habit of rusting badly under the bladders. To the point they rust through completely and loose their oil, resulting in loss of damping and give a banging noise over bumps as the road wheel bounces around, literally leaving the road surface.

[johnnydog]

I personally would keep the s/l suspension set up - I regularly tow a heavy trailer with a 3.2 Elite saloon and the s/l set up works very well. What reinforced how good the system is was when I broke the pigtail off both springs in a short space of time and the back end was a lot lower than normal under load; the cause being the compressor had given up the ghost. A replacement compressor, two genuine VX 'LA' springs and the ride height has been restored, and the ride height when towing barely different from solo. S/l suspension ? Wouldn't change it for standard at all....

[Diamond Black Geezer]

If anyone can say what the general expected lifespan / wear / mileage on SL rear shocks is, there's an Elite in my local scrappy. Very low mileage. If they're stuffed after 10-15 years no matter what, then of course leave them, but if they're regularly good for 100k, then these could be an option for you to keep the SL setup.

Again, can only repeat - springs not a problem (though if you're really concerned, then, of course, these will have the softer rear springs, too)

[05omegav6]

Approximately 125k, just changed again at 255k on my estate

The only issue you might have is if the top mount shears when you try and undo it... Once you have got them home, inflate them with an air line and carefully inspect the area of the lower body where the bladders rub... As Chris says, they can corrode spectacularly.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Ah, thanks. So what would two SL dampers with 37k on them be worth? 

[chrisgixer]

From a hands on point of view, check them fully extended and check the rust below the bladders. If bubbling up, probably not worth fitting. Also check they both compress smoothly, and return smoothly at the same rate and don't stick. Although the bladders do affect the rate of the return stroke, there should be enough rebound left to over come any stiction.

Mileage is a difficult one to apply to sl shocks as it depends how much moisture they encounter. If the owners house is surrounded by trees then the car will take three times as long to dry out, and the under side will rust more. For example.

[tidla]

105k on my self leveling shocks. Replaced with GM. On inspection they were as said, corroded under the bladders which implies mileage might not be a factor but time.

[johnnydog]

I have only had to change s/l shocks when they have started showing signs of leaking i.e. dampness on the lower body below the bladder. Other than that if they look relatively rust free, I would definately get them from the scrapper. Last lot I got from a scrapper were £10 each.  They worked fine. Cost also depends on whether the chap in the yard knows exactly what they are!!

[omega2018]

sl shocks first one went 68K/11.5 years and was replaced by previous owner. second is just going now about 85K/14 years.

to replace 2 springs and 2 shocks self levelling is more than the value of the car.  have now got standard new FAI springs and QH shocks for total of £57.

if anyone wants one 2 year old vauxhall sl shock cheap let me know.  i have the original invoice £120.41!

[Magwheels]

 
[/quote]

thanks magwheels do i take that to mean you switched the car to standard springs and shocks? was it straightforward?
[/quote]

Sorry for the late reply...I feel asleep downstairs on the sofa (getting old) and tonight was at a Firework show.

Yes changing them is pretty straightforward, as previously mentioned do get the right springs to go with the non SL shocks and it will handle and ride just like a CDX or any other non assisted car.

[Ulap31]

Hi everyone I have the s/levelling on my omega. Which needs replacing so went to vauxhall after realising that you can't get these anywhere else, now they do sell these but there not cheap think about £130 each(will be doing after Xmas). The other point if I'm correct is with the xenon lights they self level which is tied in to the self levelling. I have a lot of documents from a vauxhall showroom I cleared out a few years ago which relates to most vauxhalls upto 2000. Also includes recall issues and known faults. Pretty sure one of the wiring layout diagrams shows that they are interconnected but double check that one.
Hope this is of some help

[chrisgixer]

For the cost of these new, it's worth getting trade club membership. See FAQ section re joining abs.

Abs membership £25 iirc. Plus the shocks used to be £150 for the pair on tc. Might be £170 a pair by now....?

[VXL V6]

Hi everyone I have the s/levelling on my omega. Which needs replacing so went to vauxhall after realising that you can't get these anywhere else, now they do sell these but there not cheap think about £130 each(will be doing after Xmas). The other point if I'm correct is with the xenon lights they self level which is tied in to the self levelling. I have a lot of documents from a vauxhall showroom I cleared out a few years ago which relates to most vauxhalls upto 2000. Also includes recall issues and known faults. Pretty sure one of the wiring layout diagrams shows that they are interconnected but double check that one.
Hope this is of some help

HID's have a level sensor on the rear suspension arm and the front n/s wishbone regardless of what suspension is fitted - The headlight levelling system has to react a lot quicker than the suspension system can to avoid dazzling oncoming vehicles.

[Ulap31]

Thanks for clearing that one for me, will look at trade club though as I don't mind buying genuine parts but any savings would be good.