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[The Sheriff]

Look on the bright side. You won't need cold air for a while.

[VXL V6]

Easy way to check for a leak at those valves (while the system can still create some pressure) is to remove the black caps and splash a bit of soapy water on them. It will bubble if it leaks....

Condensor swap is easy but getting the coolant radiator out and back in is a little fiddly due to the fittings on the passenger side of the radiator.

If the compressor is leaking the die can usually be seen on the underside, failure mode is usually the large O rings that the two end sections use to seal against the main body of the unit - the wash of salt water etc on the bottom of the unit off the road is thought to be the cause. Sassanach was trying to source the O rings when I last saw him as he could only find them listed on the USA and no one wants to ship O rings worth a few pence across the pond.

[Mr.OmegaMan]

Look on the bright side. You won't need cold air for a while.

Not really why I'm trying to get it working this time of year, It really helps de-misting 

[Mr.OmegaMan]

Basically I'm after a part number for the L.P. A/C Valve to save you reading all of the below...

The answer is here:  http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=125817.msg1605532#msg1605532[/url]

 or here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=125817.msg1604750#msg1604750

I got the GM ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R134A-AIRCON-GM-SCHRADER-VALVE-CORE-PACK-5-2673-/400198885451?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5d2db6604b but I also got some of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TYRE-VALVE-CORE-REMOVER-REMOVAL-TOOL-WHEEL-INNERTUBE-FOUR-FREE-CORES-/201066297456?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyre_Trims_Trims_ET&hash=item2ed07c3870

My problem was actually the High Pressure valve instead which can easily be changed (when de-gassed) as valve unscrews and is NOT part of the pipework contrary to what the Garages will try to fleece you for !!  HP valve is only a few quid.  The part number and guide for that is on the OOF guide at http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=124057.0 

Hope that helps.
Dr Andy 

Tried them before using the normal car tyre type as they didn't fit.

HP Is fine completey bone dry no issues, Did change that a few months ago anyway 

Have you tried these ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R134A-AIRCON-GM-SCHRADER-VALVE-CORE-PACK-5-2673-/400198885451?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5d2db6604b or got it sorted ?

Aye tried these they don't fit the Omega, Must be for some different GM A/C system 

[Mr.OmegaMan]

Easy way to check for a leak at those valves (while the system can still create some pressure) is to remove the black caps and splash a bit of soapy water on them. It will bubble if it leaks....

Condensor swap is easy but getting the coolant radiator out and back in is a little fiddly due to the fittings on the passenger side of the radiator.

If the compressor is leaking the die can usually be seen on the underside, failure mode is usually the large O rings that the two end sections use to seal against the main body of the unit - the wash of salt water etc on the bottom of the unit off the road is thought to be the cause. Sassanach was trying to source the O rings when I last saw him as he could only find them listed on the USA and no one wants to ship O rings worth a few pence across the pond.

Tried something similar and there is the occasional bubble, Also noticed when removing the dust cap there's a far amount of pressure being released, Safe to say it is leaking, The HP valve is the complete opposite since replacing it 

[05omegav6]

Who fitted the valve? Have you tried nipping it up

Oddly enough, helfrods also sell valve insert tools no leaking from mine, purchased from there and fitted with a valve tool from the same source, by me... system was drained and gassed by a competent garage, which your chosen Vx dealer has repeatedly proven not to be 

[Broomies Mate]

Those Shraeder valves do tend to play up a bit.  Something is telling me that if the valve is buggered, you do need to replace the pipe, unlike the HP port.

You can try as many inserts as you like, but if the valve is knackered (some hamfisted idiot has overtightened) then you'll never get a good seal.

Last ditch effort would be to apply some decent epoxy to the threads of the insert and install it.  You have nothing to lose.

[Mr.OmegaMan]

Have ordered the part using AndyC part number, Should be in a few days.

[Mr.OmegaMan]

Here's the valve from AndyC part number...

[05omegav6]

See, standard schraeder valve, nothing fancy

Have you tried nipping it up yet?

[biggriffin]

LP valve is a standard tyre valve core. Cost £1.00 at most.
If its not screwing down enough to form a seal,try a dob of liquid ptfe on core threads.

[Mr.OmegaMan]

Aye it's fitted nice and snug Al replaced it myself took my time to make sure it went in as it should...

There's a good chance it's valve related, As once I replaced the old valve with a new cheap one (when I say cheap I mean cheap £1.50 delivered for x5 plus the tool) it lasted a good 2 weeks longer I'd say more than the previous refill, Plus I did notice less bubbles with the new valve, hopefully this valve will do the job there's no excuses this time, Time will tell 

[Jukeboxnut]

The bloke who charged my aircon replaced both valves and said the normal schraeder valves for car tyres will leak as the rubber seal in them is not suitable for the gas used.  Perhaps that is BS but the system is working fine at the moment.

[VXL V6]

.....I did notice less bubbles with the new valve

There shouldn't be any

[Mr.OmegaMan]

.....I did notice less bubbles with the new valve

There shouldn't be any

Aye I know, I went on the advice before any valve like this would do and it clearly hasn't worked in my case could well be the cheap valve I bought but their all none R134a compatible I'd have thought... Hopefully this GM one will do the trick with its fancy black ring.

Will update on how this saga goes