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[Marks DTM Calib]

Tig is a two handed operation as you need to hold the torch in one hand and filler od in the other with kit being pricey, alloys require an AC capable set which ups the price further.

Better for thin steel, questionable unless you have a pulse unit.

Its a bit like the electrical equivalent of gas welding I find, there are a few types of tungsten alloy electrodes used dependent on the material your working with.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Mark,

Appreciated you need two hands but so far not come across anything I couldnt do with the aid of string and some vice grips 

Seriously though, I 'd have to think long 'n hard how to do it.

I saw some guy have a peddle that he depressed at certain times. What would that be for? 

[aaronjb]

Pedal set on a TIG unit controls the power (amperage) usually, so it's a variable on/off switch.

And you really need good fine motor skills with both hands for TIG - getting the pool right and feeding the filler into it at the right rate so you don't either melt a hole, leave a dip or have big gobs of half joined filler in there is meant to take practice and good dexterity (and vision).. which, er, might prove problematic, in the nicest possible way!


Having said all that there are videos of "one handed TIP TIG" on Youtube.. no idea how that works, but I presume the torch must be different and auto feed the filler, maybe. Mark might know..

[Webby the Bear]

Ok, thanks Aaron.

Always expect problems mate

Not wanting to over delve in to a subject that I'm realistically probably never going to try, but why would TIG need variable power as opposed to the constant power in MIG?

[Marks DTM Calib]

It allows control of the residual heat, so you can apply power to create a weld pool, add your filler and then lower the power before moving forward.

It reduces the heat put into the surrounding material and minimises distortion, this is what a pulse unit does over a timed repetition.

Good TIG welders also have ramp up and ramp down of current to

[Webby the Bear]

It allows control of the residual heat, so you can apply power to create a weld pool, add your filler and then lower the power before moving forward.

It reduces the heat put into the surrounding material and minimises distortion, this is what a pulse unit does over a timed repetition.

Good TIG welders also have ramp up and ramp down of current to

Cheers Mark 

[Marks DTM Calib]

For single handed TIG welding just remember that not all welds require filler there may well be more than enough material in the parent metal 

[aaronjb]

For single handed TIG welding just remember that not all welds require filler there may well be more than enough material in the parent metal 

Ah good point.. I think the video I found was joining two fairly heavy sections of pipe on a rolling jig, so all the welder was doing was walking the pool between the pipes. (If I have the terminology right - given I've never actually tried TIG.. was going to get Amy's dad to teach me all that at the Uni, ho hum)

[Webby the Bear]

Been out this morning. Welds are looking a lot better. The key, apart from getting the settings correct, is to watch the pool!!!! It's almost (ALMOST) like colouring in..... I strike an arc, wait for pool to build, move on and it looks like the pool is being dragged. if I move too quickly I go over it again briefly. welds are looking a LOT tidier imo.

ps, I tried writing on steel. looks ghood imo. ok its not calligraphy  but I think I got the hang of it.

Pics to follow later...

ONLY ISSUE.....welder stopped just before I got done writing a plaque with a soppy message to my woman verse about peace and war. . . . bear thinks WTF. Check my extension and its not working.

knowing nowt about electrics....have I overloaded the extension and blown an internal fuse? its one of the cheap reel ones.....

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cheap+extension+leads&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=UzCAVJyTEcLUOaTEgEg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=YPkcL8_FMnCAYM%253A%3BNxv9etlQEQsDOM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F2.bp.blogspot.com%252F-ktes0aGBub0%252FUon4dSi3SyI%252FAAAAAAAAAUY%252FXt003ImRtRE%252Fs1600%252Fjojo-extension-reel2011.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Frepairshed.blogspot.com%252F2013%252F11%252Fpressure-washers-buyers-guide-what-to.html%3B600%3B600

not this exact one but that style. any ideas? sadly, cant weld til I repair it or get a new one 

[aaronjb]

Probably popped the fuse, is yours like one of the pictures affairs with the little pop-out red button to reset the trip?

Of course if you haven't had the whole thing unwound .. try unwinding it now and see if the wiring inside is melted together. That's a possibility if you use a long extension coiled up with heavy draw through it!

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Aaron,

Opened the plug up. brown wire broke, refitted, new fuse in (for good measure), reset, and now she works

cheers mate.

right, back to welding 

[aaronjb]

Easy fixes are the best 

[Webby the Bear]

Please ignore the childish humour  my friends surname is Gans and this is his xmas pressie

So ignoring the silliness.....


You can see I went a little off track working left to right  but other than that I think it looks good and is solid as a bleedin' rock


And some tack welds to put the bent valves on.... going to make myself a little trophy 


Will grind them down and make it tomorrow.

The reason I stopped today - was feeling a bit sick a bit dizzy also. was wearing a face mask under my helmet. but wondering if I got some fumes down me. 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Pretty much no fumes to be had off mild steel, any paint that could burn?

[Webby the Bear]

interesting. maybe coincidence then.

no paint around