News:

Search the maintenance guides for answers to 99.999% of Omega questions

Main Menu

Rear brake pads

Started by rockindave, 06 December 2014, 08:00:42

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.

rockindave

Hi all,might be a stupid question but are there any differences in the rear pads on the MV6 or are they all the same...Thanks in advance Dave

amba

Pads are all the same across the range/engine size.

On vented discs the securing pins are longer,so if yours are shot or badly rusted,be aware that they are difficult to get spares as I found out last year.VX order direct from Germany . :o

chrisgixer

Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.

Field Marshal Dr. Opti

Quote from: chrisgixer on 06 December 2014, 09:00:34
Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.

Mine are vented.

chrisgixer

Quote from: Doctor Opti on 07 December 2014, 14:00:25
Quote from: chrisgixer on 06 December 2014, 09:00:34
Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.

Mine are vented.

Is yours the same as the op's?

VXL V6

If the OP could advise which engine is in his vehicle it may assist in providing the correct answer.  :y

TheBoy

Pads are same across range at rear. The fitting kit varies, as 2.6/3.2 have vented discs (or should have - some bodgers retrofit cheaper replacements, which will eventually kill you), thus have longer pins and bigger spring.
Grumpy old man

Keith ABS

Give me a pm if you are still looking mate
Keith B

rockindave

It has vented discs I've got the pads now hoping to fit this weekend,thanks for all help guys

05omegav6

If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side :y

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type ;D

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place :y

rockindave

Quote from: Taxi Al on 13 December 2014, 12:54:36
If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side :y

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type ;D

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place :y

Cheers for that I'm doing them tomorrow  :y

biggriffin

Quote from: Keith B on 09 December 2014, 07:52:04
Give me a pm if you are still looking mate
Keith B
Incoming  :)
Hoof'land storeman.

Field Marshal Dr. Opti

#12
Quote from: Taxi Al on 13 December 2014, 12:54:36
If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side :y

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type ;D

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place :y

Which in reality means beating the shit out of the rusted in little turds with a large hammer and a nail. :)

05omegav6

 ;D I tend to use a proper drift and a club hammer... nails tend to bend, which is a pretty effective way to spend an afternoon in A and E ::)

Field Marshal Dr. Opti

Quote from: Taxi Al on 13 December 2014, 17:28:55
;D I tend to use a proper drift and a club hammer... nails tend to bend, which is a pretty effective way to spend an afternoon in A and E ::)

In the OOF guide a nail is used......so there. :y :y