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Author Topic: Rear brake pads  (Read 4283 times)

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rockindave

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Rear brake pads
« on: 06 December 2014, 08:00:42 »

Hi all,might be a stupid question but are there any differences in the rear pads on the MV6 or are they all the same...Thanks in advance Dave
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amba

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #1 on: 06 December 2014, 08:45:24 »

Pads are all the same across the range/engine size.

On vented discs the securing pins are longer,so if yours are shot or badly rusted,be aware that they are difficult to get spares as I found out last year.VX order direct from Germany . :o
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chrisgixer

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #2 on: 06 December 2014, 09:00:34 »

Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.
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Field Marshal Dr. Opti

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #3 on: 07 December 2014, 14:00:25 »

Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.

Mine are vented.
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chrisgixer

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #4 on: 08 December 2014, 08:34:17 »

Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.

Mine are vented.

Is yours the same as the op's?
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VXL V6

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #5 on: 08 December 2014, 18:10:09 »

If the OP could advise which engine is in his vehicle it may assist in providing the correct answer.  :y
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TheBoy

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #6 on: 08 December 2014, 18:26:24 »

Pads are same across range at rear. The fitting kit varies, as 2.6/3.2 have vented discs (or should have - some bodgers retrofit cheaper replacements, which will eventually kill you), thus have longer pins and bigger spring.
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Keith ABS

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #7 on: 09 December 2014, 07:52:04 »

Give me a pm if you are still looking mate
Keith B
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rockindave

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #8 on: 13 December 2014, 08:28:12 »

It has vented discs I've got the pads now hoping to fit this weekend,thanks for all help guys
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #9 on: 13 December 2014, 12:54:36 »

If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side :y

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type ;D

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place :y
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rockindave

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #10 on: 13 December 2014, 15:16:45 »

If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side :y

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type ;D

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place :y

Cheers for that I'm doing them tomorrow  :y
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biggriffin

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #11 on: 13 December 2014, 17:08:55 »

Give me a pm if you are still looking mate
Keith B
Incoming  :)
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Hoof'land storeman.

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #12 on: 13 December 2014, 17:25:47 »

If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side :y

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type ;D

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place :y

Which in reality means beating the shit out of the rusted in little turds with a large hammer and a nail. :)
« Last Edit: 13 December 2014, 17:27:33 by Doctor Opti »
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #13 on: 13 December 2014, 17:28:55 »

 ;D I tend to use a proper drift and a club hammer... nails tend to bend, which is a pretty effective way to spend an afternoon in A and E ::)
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Field Marshal Dr. Opti

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Re: Rear brake pads
« Reply #14 on: 13 December 2014, 17:30:07 »

;D I tend to use a proper drift and a club hammer... nails tend to bend, which is a pretty effective way to spend an afternoon in A and E ::)

In the OOF guide a nail is used......so there. :y :y
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