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[terry paget]

I note Haynes has a bleeding order for Omegas. Does this matter when merely changing fluid, or can I do it in any order?

[4x4]

It does matter,all cars have a pattern to bleed the brakes,usally start at furthest away from master cylinder and finishing at the nearest.

[05omegav6]

Officially the ABS unit needs to run to carry out a complete fluid change...

For the £35 or so that most places charge to carry out a brake fluid change, is it worth the bother of diy

[terry paget]

My MOT shop wonders why I change it at all, I reply that Vauxhall recommends it, that brake fluid is hygroscopic and attracts atmospheric water vapour, causing corrosion of ABS components and risk of boiling under heavy use. The lads there give me funny looks, say it i rubbish.

I appreciate to chase air out of a spongy system I should bleed brakes in the right order. For a fluid change it is simpler to jack up one side of the car, Eezibleed blow all the fluid of front left, then refill and bleed front left, then bleed back left of about 200 cc's, then replace LH wheels, drop jack, jack up RHS and pump 200cc's through RH front and rear.

I am nervous of garages, they may skimp the job, also they are incline to overtighten things, like the oil filter on my sister's Meriva. Bleed nipples are easily overtightened, then break off next time round. If I do it myself, I know I can undo the brake nipples if I need to.

[Kevin Wood]

I agree. No real need to observe any order when changing the fluid.

Despite what your MOT place says, it's worth keeping on top of changing it as it keeps other parts of the system from degrading when the fluid is in good condition. An Easybleed is very helpful when changing fluid.

[Shackeng]

My MOT shop wonders why I change it at all, I reply that Vauxhall recommends it, that brake fluid is hygroscopic and attracts atmospheric water vapour, causing corrosion of ABS components and risk of boiling under heavy use. The lads there give me funny looks, say it i rubbish.

I appreciate to chase air out of a spongy system I should bleed brakes in the right order. For a fluid change it is simpler to jack up one side of the car, Eezibleed blow all the fluid of front left, then refill and bleed front left, then bleed back left of about 200 cc's, then replace LH wheels, drop jack, jack up RHS and pump 200cc's through RH front and rear.

I am nervous of garages, they may skimp the job, also they are incline to overtighten things, like the oil filter on my sister's Meriva. Bleed nipples are easily overtightened, then break off next time round. If I do it myself, I know I can undo the brake nipples if I need to.

If ever anyone wonders why garages are untrustworthy, this should convince them.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

I'm, as most know on her that've been following my ''The' Omega Progress Diary' I'm resurrecting a poorly old lady from the dead... that's including full suspension replacement, new battery, new leads, full service, all fluids, cambelt, the lot, even sourced decent replacement fuel tank straps 

On asking if my mate/mechanic who knows Omegas better than most (been servicing/repairs all the taxis in the local area since Carlton/Senny days) he asked "Well.. I don't know why you're bothering with all this, it's just an old car" 

Look after her, and she'll look after you, that's what I say.

[Webby the Bear]

Change the fluid. Don't worry about the order, end of 

[Shackeng]

Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

From a DIY site.

[Shackeng]

On the subject of brakes, what is there any indication of air in the ABS, other than not working?

[tigers_gonads]

Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

From a DIY site.

That's the way my old man taught me to do it 

[Andy B]

IIRC Haynes gives two options for bleeding sequence depending on the  car's age 

[terry paget]

IIRC Haynes gives two options for bleeding sequence depending on the  car's age 

He says pre-1998 three channel ABS, post 1998 four channel ABS, quite different sequences.

[Kevin Wood]

On the subject of brakes, what is there any indication of air in the ABS, other than not working?

Just a spongy pedal, just the same as with air anywhere else. I believe the issue with the ABS block is that, if you've done a really good job of getting air into it, you need to operate the valves to bleed it through.

There is also a circuit within the abs block that will retain old fluid, but that will soon get diluted by the new fluid when the pump operates.

[Shackeng]

On the subject of brakes, what is there any indication of air in the ABS, other than not working?

Just a spongy pedal, just the same as with air anywhere else. I believe the issue with the ABS block is that, if you've done a really good job of getting air into it, you need to operate the valves to bleed it through.

There is also a circuit within the abs block that will retain old fluid, but that will soon get diluted by the new fluid when the pump operates.

Presumably using the expensive pressure kit? I'm wondering whether there may be some in the Elite's ABS, as the main system has been bled well.