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[Marks DTM Calib]

Right, the nut is 27mm.

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO SLACKEN THE HANDBRAKE CABLE RIGHT OFF FIRST.

So with the handbrake released, pop the drums off and clean up well (grind the lip off the drums), make sure the self adjusters are assembled correctly (so the angled actuator is touching the toothed adjuster on the worm gear)....amazing how many times you see this wrong.

Next check all is free including the adjuster.

Check behind the wheel cylinder boots for signs of leakage.

Pre set the clearance with the adjusters so there is some slop.

Re-fit the drum and tighten the nut (180Nm rings a bell but do check).

Now actuate the foot brake repeatedly, you should hear the rear drums clicking as the self adjusters operate.

Only when this is done should you adjust the handbrake cable and there MUST be some slack with the handbrake released or the self adjusters will no operate.

As Webby says, cable replacement is dead easy and the parts very cheap.

The self adjusters on these work VERY well IF you do the job correctly...... (and hence why there are loads out there not working pmsl)

[tigers_gonads]

Understood 
Thanks for that Mark 

[Webby the Bear]

In that case mate you'll probably find it is the adjustment of the shoes that's playing the havoc, assuming there's plenty of meat still on them.

I was always told that when they're set correctly (and the drum is placed firmly on) you should be able to spin it one full revolution before it stops on its own.

That makes no bloody sense at all lol.

Only going on what I was told in school when I posed the question 'how d'ya know when they're adjusted correctly'

[Marks DTM Calib]

In that case mate you'll probably find it is the adjustment of the shoes that's playing the havoc, assuming there's plenty of meat still on them.

I was always told that when they're set correctly (and the drum is placed firmly on) you should be able to spin it one full revolution before it stops on its own.

That makes no bloody sense at all lol.

Only going on what I was told in school when I posed the question 'how d'ya know when they're adjusted correctly'

The correct answer is to do the job correctly and let the auto adjusters do their job 

Only exceptions to the rule are old manually adjusted setups like Land Rovers where you adjust until they wont turn then back off 3 clicks

[Webby the Bear]

Ok Mark. . . Let's start from the beginning as you know I'm thick as horse shit and you need to dumb this down for me lol

I replace shoes on say this corsa c . . . The adjuster has been backed off all the way to allow a release of tension on the springs and thus it's easier to remove them.

So. I've put new shoes on. And the adjusters loose. I crank up the adjuster til it's hard to get the drum on. I now know I need to back off the adjustment. So I back it off and now I get my drum on. How do you fine tune the adjustment from here . . . . .

[Marks DTM Calib]

In the case of Corsa C no (and pretty much every other car made in the last 25 years which uses drums for braking and not just handbrake  ), as you cant get near the adjuster with the drum in place.

Hence why when removed you need to remove the wear lip from the drum.

Then you do as you say e.g. fit parts (correctly) fit drum with adjuster backed off.

From this point its down to the auto adjuster, so pumping the foot brake actuates the shoes hydraulically and in doing so, the adjuster actuates to take up the free play.

All with the handbrake cable with plenty of slack in it......and its this last part many spanner grippers don't appreciate.....you cant, on any setup, adjust a handbrake with the cable setting, you can only compensate for a stretched cable.....


Simples

[Webby the Bear]

Oooook, I think I see where I'm misunderstanding.

So. With new shoes on and adjuster backed right off so you can easily slip the drum on, you then pump the pedal which actuates the auto adjuster and AUTOMATICALLY sets the shoes in the correct place?

So when I did the shoes on my ma's Ford I could have simply jumped in with the adjuster in any loose position and jammed the foot brake a bunch of times and then took up the handbrake cable slack with the nut adjuster?

If that's the case. . . Why did the head mechanic not do this on a recent van we had in? And this guy knows his onions.? Is it possible he thought the auto adjusters don't work? I vaguely remember hearing him say summat like that. . .?

[05omegav6]

He thought that they don't work, or cba to fix them?

[Webby the Bear]

I can't say for sure cos Im struggling to remember exactly what he said. But he definitely did the drum, then off and adjust, back on etc.

And when you say Cba to fix them..... How do you do that exactly?

[05omegav6]

I can't say for sure cos Im struggling to remember exactly what he said. But he definitely did the drum, then off and adjust, back on etc.

And when you say Cba to fix them..... How do you do that exactly?

Easy feet up, kettle on and kick back...

[05omegav6]

I can't say for sure cos Im struggling to remember exactly what he said. But he definitely did the drum, then off and adjust, back on etc.

And when you say Cba to fix them..... How do you do that exactly?

Easy feet up, kettle on and kick back...

Sorry Webby, that was a flippant answer... Can't/Couldn't Be Arsed

[aaronjb]

I think webby meant how do you fix them, not what does cba mean

[05omegav6]

I think webby meant how do you fix them, not what does cba mean

I hope so, but was how I read it

[Webby the Bear]

I think webby meant how do you fix them, not what does cba mean

This 

[05omegav6]

I think webby meant how do you fix them, not what does cba mean

This 

Just like Mark said...

Right, the nut is 27mm.

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO SLACKEN THE HANDBRAKE CABLE RIGHT OFF FIRST.

So with the handbrake released, pop the drums off and clean up well (grind the lip off the drums), make sure the self adjusters are assembled correctly (so the angled actuator is touching the toothed adjuster on the worm gear)....amazing how many times you see this wrong.

Next check all is free including the adjuster.

Check behind the wheel cylinder boots for signs of leakage.

Pre set the clearance with the adjusters so there is some slop.

Re-fit the drum and tighten the nut (180Nm rings a bell but do check).

Now actuate the foot brake repeatedly, you should hear the rear drums clicking as the self adjusters operate.

Only when this is done should you adjust the handbrake cable and there MUST be some slack with the handbrake released or the self adjusters will no operate.

As Webby says, cable replacement is dead easy and the parts very cheap.

The self adjusters on these work VERY well IF you do the job correctly...... (and hence why there are loads out there not working pmsl)