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[Andy A]

Just purchased the car and the air con was not working. I read some where that if the air con has lost all its gas that the compressor won't run at all. Is this correct?

Thanks

[LC0112G]

Just purchased the car and the air con was not working. I read some where that if the air con has lost all its gas that the compressor won't run at all. Is this correct?

Thanks

Yes - there are low and high pressure switches in the electrics which prevent the compressor running if the gas pressure in the system is too low or high.

[Andy A]

The car is off the road for the foreseeable future. Is there an easy way to test if the compressor is dead or the gas is low or empty?

Would this bring a fault code up?

[LC0112G]

The car is off the road for the foreseeable future. Is there an easy way to test if the compressor is dead or the gas is low or empty?

Define easy.

One (illegal and potentially dangerous) way to tell if there is any gas in the system is to remove the cap on the A/C filler point and poke a suitable pointy thing into the hole. There is a tyre valve type Schrader valve in the bottom of the hole. If you hear a hiss of gas escaping then there is gas pressure in the system.

Odds are it's the A/C radiator (condenser) that has sprung a leak and there is no gas in the system. Typically costs £100-150 to DIY replace the rad (complete with the drier) and another £50 ish for a re-gas at a local place.

Would this bring a fault code up?

No.

[Andy A]

The car is off the road for the foreseeable future. Is there an easy way to test if the compressor is dead or the gas is low or empty?

Define easy.

One (illegal and potentially dangerous) way to tell if there is any gas in the system is to remove the cap on the A/C filler point and poke a suitable pointy thing into the hole. There is a tyre valve type Schrader valve in the bottom of the hole. If you hear a hiss of gas escaping then there is gas pressure in the system.

Odds are it's the A/C radiator (condenser) that has sprung a leak and there is no gas in the system. Typically costs £100-150 to DIY replace the rad (complete with the drier) and another £50 ish for a re-gas at a local place.

Would this bring a fault code up?

No.

Is that cost for new parts and is it for generic or VX parts?

I was also told that the seals will probably need replacing due to being left so long.
Do you know what seals might need replacing and if it includes the two on the back of the condenser, can these be replaced with condenser left in situ?

[LC0112G]

Is that cost for new parts and is it for generic or VX parts?

Aftermarket pattern parts:

http://www.autoairconparts.co.uk/car-air-conditioning-condenser-aircon-radiator-vauxhall-omega-b-3-0-v6-petrol-manual-automatic-apr-1994-to-2013-part-16-6554.html

Check it's the right part for your engine/transmission combination though.

I was also told that the seals will probably need replacing due to being left so long.
Do you know what seals might need replacing and if it includes the two on the back of the condenser, can these be replaced with condenser left in situ?

A new condenser comes with new seals, and yes they can be replaced with the condenser in place. But it's not likely to be just the seals, and I wouldn't just go round replacing seals willy nilly without some evidence that they are faulty. Some - including those on the back of the compressor - are a git to get at.

You shouldn't really do it - but I used compressed air to pump up my system, and I could hear the hiss of gas escaping from the rad, so that confirmed it. Threw a new condenser at it, put some clean pao oil in, and went for a re-gas.

[Andy A]

Is that cost for new parts and is it for generic or VX parts?

Aftermarket pattern parts:

http://www.autoairconparts.co.uk/car-air-conditioning-condenser-aircon-radiator-vauxhall-omega-b-3-0-v6-petrol-manual-automatic-apr-1994-to-2013-part-16-6554.html

Check it's the right part for your engine/transmission combination though.

I was also told that the seals will probably need replacing due to being left so long.
Do you know what seals might need replacing and if it includes the two on the back of the condenser, can these be replaced with condenser left in situ?

A new condenser comes with new seals, and yes they can be replaced with the condenser in place. But it's not likely to be just the seals, and I wouldn't just go round replacing seals willy nilly without some evidence that they are faulty. Some - including those on the back of the compressor - are a git to get at.

You shouldn't really do it - but I used compressed air to pump up my system, and I could hear the hiss of gas escaping from the rad, so that confirmed it. Threw a new condenser at it, put some clean pao oil in, and went for a re-gas.

Can these be done with the compressor left on the car or is it a compressor out job to get to them?

What is a safe psi to put into the system to test?

How much pao oi did you use and is it really necessary I thought I read some where that the gas already had oil in it?

[LC0112G]

Can these be done with the compressor left on the car or is it a compressor out job to get to them?

I'd say yes it can be done in car, but access to the back/top of the compressor is obstructed by all manner of gubbins, and access is difficult. The pipes come from the front, under the compressor, up the back of it and then bolt to the top of it. To disconnect you have to get a torx in on a long extension from the top of the engine bay past all the wiring, air and water pipes.

Unless you can feel/see oil on the compressors rear/underneath, I'd leave it alone. 

What is a safe psi to put into the system to test?

There is no safe pressure. Compressed air and R134a gas are supposedly explosive when mixed under some conditions. Your car, your rules, but don't come crying to me if it goes boom.

That said, IIRC the low pressure switch cuts out at about 2 bar/30psi, and the high pressure switch at 8 bar/120psi.

How much pao oi did you use and is it really necessary I thought I read some where that the gas already had oil in it?

I can't remember the exact numbers, but from memory, when new you're supposed to put roughly equal quantities (250ml?) of oil in the compressor, evaporator and condenser. I've never trusted the A/C places over the oil/gas mix, so prefer to do it myself. I'm not a qualified A/C tech though - even though I have got all the gear

[05omegav6]

The aircon charge volumes/specs should be on a sticker on the slam panel

[Andy A]

Cheers Al. 

One last question. Where under the bonnet is the Schrader valve?

[LC0112G]

One last question. Where under the bonnet is the Schrader valve?

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=124057.msg1585094#new

[Andy A]

Thanks LC0112G for all your help and advice. 

All noted about the danger of mixing compressed air and R134a gas.

Thanks again