Ok, I can officially put this 0-60 'dangle berries' to rest

[biggriffin]

If you want to go, all power.

Use 0 weight oils,
Re_pack all bearings with low friction grease eg(zx-1)
Use a high octane fuel (optimal) add octane booster and a 10% toluene base.
Nice new filters all round
Make sure there's no brakes dragging
Thinnest tyres possible  195 width
Take all protrusions off
Tape door shuts, Tape up(smooth air flow).

This get you thinking.

[Gaffers]

If you want to go, all power.

Use 0 weight oils,
Re_pack all bearings with low friction grease eg(zx-1)
Use a high octane fuel (optimal) add octane booster and a 10% toluene base.
Nice new filters all round
Make sure there's no brakes dragging
Thinnest tyres possible  195 width
Take all protrusions off
Tape door shuts, Tape up(smooth air flow).

This get you thinking.

Brought to you by VAG's official performance testing centre

[Broomies Mate]

If you want to go, all power.

Use 0 weight oils,
Re_pack all bearings with low friction grease eg(zx-1)
Use a high octane fuel (optimal) add octane booster and a 10% toluene base.
Nice new filters all round
Make sure there's no brakes dragging
Thinnest tyres possible  195 width
Take all protrusions off
Tape door shuts, Tape up(smooth air flow).

This get you thinking.

Toluene is an octane booster.  I run ~7% Toluene with Shell V-Power Nitro+ Optimax Momenturm Super-Duper (whatever they are calling it nowadays).  With 98RON fuel, I'm estimating I have 101-102RON in the tank. 

Does it make a difference?  Dunno on an Omega, would the ECU be able to adapt that far?  In the Vectra Saab, Trionic 7 adapts beautifully..... Yes, it makes a bloody big difference.

[Webby the Bear]

book says it can adapt to 98ron 

[TheBoy]

We all know the 3.0l would outperform the 3.2l, as not compromised so much

[Broomies Mate]

book says it can adapt to 98ron 

So, no then! It won't be helped by an octane booster! (Interestingly, has anyone tried it?)

We all know the 3.0l would outperform the 3.2l, as not compromised so much

I own neither underpowered, over-thirsty cars anymore, but I owned several 3.0's and one 3.2.  Maybe I had a belter of a 3.2, but in real-life driving, the 3.2 is the quicker of the variants. 

[Webby the Bear]

lol this 3.0 vs 3.2 is just as silly as my thread 

anyways...some developments and testing results tht I'd like you to peruse and make comments as to whether theres a problem...

so, was quiet at work today so plummed in the vacuum gauge straight from the brake servo (and tee'd it in so it was all still plumbed up)....... got car up to temp and at idle it was holding a ROCK STEADY vacuum of 20inHG. Perfect!!!

I then brought the rpm's up to 3k and held it there.....again, rock steady vacuum of 23inHG. PERFECT! This confirms there's zero exhaust restrictions, zero vacuum leaks and the engine is very healthy. really really pleased actually.

I blipped the throttle a few times and all vacuum dropped to 0 and came back to a steady 20inHG at idle. i believe this to also be completely normal.

while car was in i got my infrared thermometer out and got one of the mechanics to jump in and hold it at 2500k rpm. i checked the inlet and outlet temp. of both cats. now, my understanding is that the outlet should be 100oF hotter than the inlet. however, i got similar readings on both....

drivers cat:
inlet 180oF
outlet 135oF

pass. cat:
inlet 230oF
outlet 180(ish)oF

Would this have any bearing on performance?

[Kevin Wood]

I own neither underpowered, over-thirsty cars anymore, but I owned several 3.0's and one 3.2.  Maybe I had a belter of a 3.2, but in real-life driving, the 3.2 is the quicker of the variants. 

Was your 3.0 made out of steel or that <cough!> ultra light, weight-saving material that's brown in colour and has the secret chemical formula Fe2O3.nH2O? 

[Broomies Mate]

I own neither underpowered, over-thirsty cars anymore, but I owned several 3.0's and one 3.2.  Maybe I had a belter of a 3.2, but in real-life driving, the 3.2 is the quicker of the variants. 

Was your 3.0 made out of steel or that <cough!> ultra light, weight-saving material that's brown in colour and has the secret chemical formula Fe2O3.nH2O? 

Not really getting why you are asking, but apart from a few bubbles here and there, and the odd arch or two, none of my Omega's have been rotten.  Come to think of it, the latest one (the 3.2) suffered the worst, but nothing to cry about.

[Kevin Wood]

I own neither underpowered, over-thirsty cars anymore, but I owned several 3.0's and one 3.2.  Maybe I had a belter of a 3.2, but in real-life driving, the 3.2 is the quicker of the variants. 

Was your 3.0 made out of steel or that <cough!> ultra light, weight-saving material that's brown in colour and has the secret chemical formula Fe2O3.nH2O? 

Not really getting why you are asking, but apart from a few bubbles here and there, and the odd arch or two, none of my Omega's have been rotten.  Come to think of it, the latest one (the 3.2) suffered the worst, but nothing to cry about.

Ahh.. I wasn't asking about yours.

[Broomies Mate]

I own neither underpowered, over-thirsty cars anymore, but I owned several 3.0's and one 3.2.  Maybe I had a belter of a 3.2, but in real-life driving, the 3.2 is the quicker of the variants. 

Was your 3.0 made out of steel or that <cough!> ultra light, weight-saving material that's brown in colour and has the secret chemical formula Fe2O3.nH2O? 

Not really getting why you are asking, but apart from a few bubbles here and there, and the odd arch or two, none of my Omega's have been rotten.  Come to think of it, the latest one (the 3.2) suffered the worst, but nothing to cry about.

Ahh.. I wasn't asking about yours.

No worries.

I take it you were asking TB, who has delusions about the 3.2.  I reckon he needs to drive one for more than 5 minutes. 

*Awaits STEMO* "You cant drive an omega for more than 5 minutes.... it'll break down"

[Kevin Wood]

I own neither underpowered, over-thirsty cars anymore, but I owned several 3.0's and one 3.2.  Maybe I had a belter of a 3.2, but in real-life driving, the 3.2 is the quicker of the variants. 

Was your 3.0 made out of steel or that <cough!> ultra light, weight-saving material that's brown in colour and has the secret chemical formula Fe2O3.nH2O? 

Not really getting why you are asking, but apart from a few bubbles here and there, and the odd arch or two, none of my Omega's have been rotten.  Come to think of it, the latest one (the 3.2) suffered the worst, but nothing to cry about.

Ahh.. I wasn't asking about yours.

No worries.

I take it you were asking TB, who has delusions about the 3.2.  I reckon he needs to drive one for more than 5 minutes. 

*Awaits STEMO* "You cant drive an omega for more than 5 minutes.... it'll break down"

I think the RustySilver bullet must be really light by now.

[Webby the Bear]

lol this 3.0 vs 3.2 is just as silly as my thread 

anyways...some developments and testing results tht I'd like you to peruse and make comments as to whether theres a problem...

so, was quiet at work today so plummed in the vacuum gauge straight from the brake servo (and tee'd it in so it was all still plumbed up)....... got car up to temp and at idle it was holding a ROCK STEADY vacuum of 20inHG. Perfect!!!

I then brought the rpm's up to 3k and held it there.....again, rock steady vacuum of 23inHG. PERFECT! This confirms there's zero exhaust restrictions, zero vacuum leaks and the engine is very healthy. really really pleased actually.

I blipped the throttle a few times and all vacuum dropped to 0 and came back to a steady 20inHG at idle. i believe this to also be completely normal.

while car was in i got my infrared thermometer out and got one of the mechanics to jump in and hold it at 2500k rpm. i checked the inlet and outlet temp. of both cats. now, my understanding is that the outlet should be 100oF hotter than the inlet. however, i got similar readings on both....

drivers cat:
inlet 180oF
outlet 135oF

pass. cat:
inlet 230oF
outlet 180(ish)oF

Would this have any bearing on performance?

So anyone got any advice / opinions on my testing (other than shut up  )

so we got an engine that's performing well with no exhaust blockages. very well in fact and backed up by evidence. but we have two cats that don't appear to be working correctly (certainly according to the infrared test.

so. can non performing cats affect acceleration? could this be a worn/wearing transmission issue? could this be a worn diff problem?

discuss 

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

lol this 3.0 vs 3.2 is just as silly as my thread 

anyways...some developments and testing results tht I'd like you to peruse and make comments as to whether theres a problem...

so, was quiet at work today so plummed in the vacuum gauge straight from the brake servo (and tee'd it in so it was all still plumbed up)....... got car up to temp and at idle it was holding a ROCK STEADY vacuum of 20inHG. Perfect!!!

I then brought the rpm's up to 3k and held it there.....again, rock steady vacuum of 23inHG. PERFECT! This confirms there's zero exhaust restrictions, zero vacuum leaks and the engine is very healthy. really really pleased actually.

I blipped the throttle a few times and all vacuum dropped to 0 and came back to a steady 20inHG at idle. i believe this to also be completely normal.

while car was in i got my infrared thermometer out and got one of the mechanics to jump in and hold it at 2500k rpm. i checked the inlet and outlet temp. of both cats. now, my understanding is that the outlet should be 100oF hotter than the inlet. however, i got similar readings on both....

drivers cat:
inlet 180oF
outlet 135oF

pass. cat:
inlet 230oF
outlet 180(ish)oF

Would this have any bearing on performance?

So anyone got any advice / opinions on my testing (other than shut up  )

so we got an engine that's performing well with no exhaust blockages. very well in fact and backed up by evidence. but we have two cats that don't appear to be working correctly (certainly according to the infrared test.

so. can non performing cats affect acceleration? could this be a worn/wearing transmission issue? could this be a worn diff problem?

discuss 

The 2.5 will struggle to better 10 seconds with a'portly' driver at the helm.

[05omegav6]

Diff wear is negligible in it's relevance  the instant any slack, and we're talking much less than a mm of slop anyways... is taken up, then that's it until you lift off and smack the hammer down again...