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[Webby the Bear]

thanksYZ, appreciatethe input.

so basically, doing the stall approach wont makeme spin off the road...but will get me a faster time

It's basically getting the car ready to go before you let it go. In a powerful enough car you can make a right dogs dinner of a launch start but the 2.5 is too heavy to spin out from a straight line start, unless it's wet, in which case you shouldn't be doing it. 
Put it this way, your right foot is telling the car to go and your left foot is preventing it from going, so it's not doing it any favours.
Do it once to satisfy yourself and then stick to sport mode, foot flat down and keep it simple. I've never bothered to time flying starts as I'm too busy watching where I'm going  , so I can't answer that one. 

Thanks mate.... that makes a lotta sense 

[05omegav6]

Forgive my stupidity but as my compression tests are all spot on and its clear there's not saw carbon build up in the engine how would it have lost horses. . . Assuming it was manual and could be tested on rolling road?

But if it were a manual, it would already be a second faster...

That is true. but whats the answer to the question..... how can a car lose horses if the copressions good, alls working well with the engine and, as we've determined before, hardly any carbon build up in a modern engine?

Wear, dear Bear.Wear

[Marks DTM Calib]

Nah, the compression tests are telling you engine state and we know the bores and rings on the Omega just don't wear.

The most common cause of power loss on modern engines is past due a service, an issue or some exhaust restriction due to aged components.

Bottom line is, unlike old carb based  and open loop engines, modern donks just keep going and producing the same power from the day they were made.

[Webby the Bear]

Exactly what I thought. Thanks DTM 

[Webby the Bear]

Having said that. . .

If you've confirmed your compression is spot on, no issues or exhaust blocks I suppose wear in the cam shaft lobes could have a bearing on it? I've seen lots of camshaft so with a touch of wear on them . . . Including my own if I remember correctly. . . Wonder if chucking in a brand new set would help if the loss of power is small and you've checked everything else?

Thoughts?

[Webby the Bear]

And you can afford it obviously

[Webby the Bear]

Anyone?

Brand new cams, brand new lifters? Gain a bit of power?

[Andy H]

Anyone?

Brand new cams, brand new lifters? Gain a bit of power?

Unlikely. The difference in appearance between the tips of the cam lobes and the 'unworn' parts of the cam lobes won't amount to a significant amount of wear.

If you want more power from a 2.5 then fit (used) G cams.

[henryd]

Anyone?

Brand new cams, brand new lifters? Gain a bit of power?

Unlikely. The difference in appearance between the tips of the cam lobes and the 'unworn' parts of the cam lobes won't amount to a significant amount of wear.

If you want more power from a 2.5 then fit (used) G cams.

Or a 3 litre Donk

[Webby the Bear]

Yeah totally. I've lost count how many folk have said stick 3 litre gubins in. But not wanting to. I want to keep it stock as possible but also have it working as best it can.

followers become dished though don't they? I'm thinking after 15 years they'd be quite dished? 

[Andy H]

Yeah totally. I've lost count how many folk have said stick 3 litre gubins in. But not wanting to. I want to keep it stock as possible but also have it working as best it can.

followers become dished though don't they? I'm thinking after 15 years they'd be quite dished? 

Wear will be a function of mileage and oil change interval rather than years.

Did you have to take the heads off when you had the problem doing the cambelt? Did you inspect the followers then?

Have you got a set of old ones you can put a straight edge on to check?

If you were working on an old school engine (for example a Rover V8) you would find the cams and followers to be worn out after 70,000 miles. The Omega V6 seems to be made to a higher standard and (barring failure of the lubrication system) you should find the cams and followers to be almost un-worn after 200,000 miles.

When I changed the cam cover gaskets on mine at 130,000 miles I couldn't see anything amiss & I am not planning to pull it apart again any time soon (it has now done 205,000 miles and feels as it did at 130k).

[Webby the Bear]

Perfect thanks for that explanation mate. I'm thinking weight of driver may have a big influence lol I'm 18 stone. I reckon that's a couple of the the over a magazine tester lol

I suppose what I mean is I want to get my stock 2.5 doing exactly what the book time says. And as there's no mechanical issues or problems I'm wondering why I can't get the 9.5 second 0-60 time. I'm thinking I spend more time practicing doing it and getting the stop watch exactly right

[Webby the Bear]

So. Whilst some may think this thread is a touch tedious I am learning a lot.

I know my engines running well.  Good compression.  Cam shaft wear won't be an issue. No carbon build up restricting the engine breathing.  So as its been mentioned that these Vauxhall motors should easily do their book 0-60 time why can't I lol

I'm going to do some more 0-60 runs and I'll start the moment I put my foot on the throttle and end when I get to 63 and hope that it will get the time. If not what's stopping me from hitting it?

[05omegav6]

If you want an honest 0-60 time get someone else to drive... They won't piss about, whereas you'll always be worried about breaking it

By someone else I mean TB, be he has the mechanical sympathy of a dead goat.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

If you want an honest 0-60 time get someone else to drive... They won't piss about, whereas you'll always be worried about breaking it

By someone else I mean TB, be he has the mechanical sympathy of a dead goat.

The problem is that TB probably weighs even more than Webby.