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[Diamond Black Geezer]

Tensioner pulley is dead easy to re-grease (or replace completely, of course) ping it apart with a blade, pack grease in there, bang back on. Practically a 5 minute job. 

Fixed for clarity...

Changing the tensioner itself involves removing/refitting two bolts on the side of the block above the alternator. Not exactly complex, but a different proposition to removing/renewing/refurbishing the pulley assembly

Ah, sorry, may be getting muddled, then. By tensioner I was referring to the pulley/bearing on the NS of the engine you have to slacken to replace/remove the aux belt. Mine was grumbling a bit, so replaced with a low mileage one, but then learned that these really want to be re-greased for longevity. If there's another tensioner that may be cause of a squeal, then I'm happy to go-a hunting, because I've got the same issue on startup as the OP. I was putting it down to a noisy timing belt, which I'd very much it rather not be. 

[terry paget]

More info. I have changed the cam belt. During this operation I have replaced the aux belt tensioner. Glimmering light was the brake pad worn and fluid level light; fluid was low, have topped up. Belt still squeals, especially on start up, especially when throttle is blipped. If I release tension on aux belt. squealing stops. I suspect alternator bearings. When belt was off I span all aux belt driven items, all seemed OK. Any suggestions?

[terry paget]

In the maintenance guide, to change the alternator I need to remove the bagpipes, air cleaner and cruise control unit. I have done it on humbler (non cruise) V6 cars without removing any of these items. Do forum experts remove them?

[Jimbob]

I did it just yesterday, on a dbw v6,

Took bagpipes out, and undertray off, that was all that was needed.

Arms are somewhat scratched now though, that top bolt is awkward!

[terry paget]

Changed my mind, don't think it is alternator now. Standing at front of the car looking back at the engine, noise appears to be coming from my right rather my left, so not alternator side. Furthermore noise is like metal scraping on metal, does not occur at steady idle or under steady load, occurs most on blipping the throttle. I now suspect power steering pump pulley scraping on something. I have changed this pulley following a bolt stuck in and my grinding the head off it. I feel it should be an engine rocking phenomenon, but cannot see what. Near PSP pulley is a SAI pipe, but that should rock with the engine.

[Webby the Bear]

When I have a belt squeal I first of all remove the auxiliary belt all together and run the car briefly. if the noise goes away I know its auxiliary related. if it stays its cam belt related.

if its auxiliary related go around each pulley and spin them feeling for roughness and listening for oddness. also pull them in and out and feel for any play.

note also that the SAI piping runs very close the the pas pump and a/c clutch so id be checking theres no fouling there also

hth 

[terry paget]

This morning I put the car over the pit and listened to the noise from below. It seemed to be coming from the alternator side. I had brought home a spare alternator and decided to change it after breakfast.

I read the guide, author said put a screwdriver against the alternator and the other end in your ear and check the noise was coming from the alternator. It was not. Oh.

At this point I decided that this Clacton PFL Omega is full of mischief. What was it up to?

I wondered if it could be the belt itself making the noise. Could 6 years in Portugal have dried it out?

Today I changed the belt. The noise has gone. Yippee!

Thanks to all for advice and patience.

Now I have to find where the brake fluid is going.

[terry paget]

My apologies to Andy B and Matrks DTM Calibi who suggested old belt early in this thread. MY excuse is that the noise did not suggest a belt squeal, it was too loud and metallic. I should have rumbled when I observed that it shrieked when I blipped the throttle, thus accelerating the belt and pulleys, but disappeared at constant speed.

I suffered a noisy cam belt 4 years ago. It was a Vx TC belt kit, bought from Bellinger Grove, Vauxhall main dealer. It whined, pitch varying with engine speed. Kit came in a plain box, belt had no lines on. I took it back for a replacement. I fitted the replacement, that whined too. I then bought a SKF kit from Autovaux, and that was fine. I suspect JamesV6CDX suffered similarly.

Belts are normally silent in operation and very reliable. Some are flat, some are V section, some are toothed, some are grooved. There is clearly lots of science in their composition to give grip but be quiet.

[terry paget]

The squealing is sorted, just leaves the glimmering light. I thought it must be trivial. Brake fluid reservoir level was low, so I topped it up. It is low again. I got under the car tonight, looking for the leak. No sign of fluid on any of the brakes, or brake lines. Only sign of brake fluid is below the clutch. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bell housing, and there is a damp patch there. Could it be clutch slave cylinder? I read that the concentric slave cylinders were bullet proof. I have mopped up around the hole and topped up the master cylinder again. Could it be clutch master cylinder, where would that leak to?

[Andy B]

.... There is a small gap at the bottom of the bell housing, and there is a damp patch there. Could it be clutch slave cylinder? I read that the concentric slave cylinders were bullet proof. I have mopped up around the hole and topped up the master cylinder again. Could it be clutch master cylinder, where would that leak to?

If you have brake fluid at the bottom of the bell housing I reckon you've found your leak. Never had a manual, but I think the master cylinder is above the pedal, which would make the fluid leak into the footwell somewhere 

[Nick W]

The squealing is sorted, just leaves the glimmering light. I thought it must be trivial. Brake fluid reservoir level was low, so I topped it up. It is low again. I got under the car tonight, looking for the leak. No sign of fluid on any of the brakes, or brake lines. Only sign of brake fluid is below the clutch. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bell housing, and there is a damp patch there. Could it be clutch slave cylinder? I read that the concentric slave cylinders were bullet proof. I have mopped up around the hole and topped up the master cylinder again. Could it be clutch master cylinder, where would that leak to?

If Omega slave cylinders are bullet proof, then they are the only ones.
If you have brake fluid dripping from the bellhousing then your leak is inside it: which means it can only be the slave or the piping to it. And the piping is the least likely.


The master cylinder will leak back along the linkage to the pedal.

[terry paget]

Thanks Nick. I was so pleased I had sorted this car, now I reckon I have a clutch job on my hands. Aren't these old Omegas fun! I suppose when I have the car apart I really should change the clutch plates and thrust bearing while I am about it. That will cost me more in parts than I paid for the car. Or do I scrap it and buy a better car?

[05omegav6]

Get it changed, it's only 23/24 bolts and three clips

LUK rep set, pressure plate/drive plate/slave (with bearing) or genuine... depending on price

Then, you'll know that the car is good to go...

If you want to go belts and braces, get new flywheel bolts and do the rear crank seal whilst you're at it

[Steve B]

Get it changed, it's only 23/24 bolts and three clips

LUK rep set, pressure plate/drive plate/slave (with bearing) or genuine... depending on price

Then, you'll know that the car is good to go...

If you want to go belts and braces, get new flywheel bolts and do the rear crank seal whilst you're at it

Are they scrap once removed then Al 

[05omegav6]

Prudent to replace given the damage caused if a reused one fails Think they are also stretch bolts