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[johnnydog]

Both the rubber and the frame need to be transfered to any new windscreen being fitted.
[/quote]

I can't see there would be a problem should a new windscreen be needed in the future, as you are only putting a small amount between the glass and inside edge of the lower seal, not sticking the frame with a non removable substance. The grey windscreen sealant is easily removeable. Now if you used Gripfill (as has been mentioned) or windscreen glass bonding, that would be a different story......

[polilara]

Sure, that will be the way I am going to do it, then also the wiper holes to be done.

[05omegav6]

Both the rubber and the frame need to be transfered to any new windscreen being fitted.

I can't see there would be a problem should a new windscreen be needed in the future, as you are only putting a small amount between the glass and inside edge of the lower seal, not sticking the frame with a non removable substance. The grey windscreen sealant is easily removeable. Now if you used Gripfill (as has been mentioned) or windscreen glass bonding, that would be a different story......
[/quote]
The frame is an interference fit on the glass, the rubber then clips to the frame, and fitted correctly, it is pulled onto the glass, making a seal...

By all means, remove it and clean it before refitting correctly, but it shouldn't need sticking on. Ever.

[johnnydog]

I had a new GM screen fitted back in approx 2007/8, complete with new GM rubbers, lower seal, frame etc. I did notice that when fitted (dry) the new lower seal fitted perfectly, and tight to the screen, and I never had any water getting under the scuttle. Can only presume that older rubbers deform slightly and get mis-shapen, and when refitted dont seal as well as they originally did. Hence the need, I felt, for a small amount of grey windscreen sealant.

[polilara]

I had a new GM screen fitted back in approx 2007/8, complete with new GM rubbers, lower seal, frame etc. I did notice that when fitted (dry) the new lower seal fitted perfectly, and tight to the screen, and I never had any water getting under the scuttle. Can only presume that older rubbers deform slightly and get mis-shapen, and when refitted dont seal as well as they originally did. Hence the need, I felt, for a small amount of grey windscreen sealant.

Yes, I think that this is the explanation. Specially here in Finland (this morning -14 degrees Celsius) screen is on ice + some snow, and it is removed heavily in a hurry. The sealing have hard conditions. Then some water can leak in slightly which freezes in next night, expands and deforms a bit more etc. I contacted this morning local screen seller. He mentioned that new screen includes lower sealing, hope it is so.

[johnnydog]

"By all means, remove it and clean it before refitting correctly, but it shouldn't need sticking on. Ever."


HKT - I can't quite see where the 'sticking it on' comes into it. All I am suggesting is when refitting the lower seal, possibly apply a small amount of the traditional windscreen sealer to the inner lip of the lower seal where it contacts the glass. Its not sticking it, just sealing it because with age they may not fit as well as did when new. Its only my suggestion - if you choose to refit yours dry, then that's absolutely fine. As already said, I've done it with mine, and it worked for me. Then Polilara can make his own choice with the suggestions offered. 

[polilara]

Is this the seal that clips into the lower edge of the screen? No sealant reqd.

It doesn't really do very much then I assume

The screen is bonded in place so water running down the screen falls into the scuttle regardless of whether the trim is attached.

If it becomes unclipped, as is reasonably common, water runs under the scuttle, rather than over it, and fills the foam with soggy water.

Mine became unclipped without glue so after gluing it remains where it should be. So that's it.

But I beleive that I need new coil back at least for bank two. After having checked (the new) spark plugs and dried all the water etc. from plug wells of bank 2 I still have bad idling as informed in the beginning of this topic. Fault codes codes 0300 and 0304 is found several times. After cold start also 0301! Now when Idling I can also see that short term trim for bank two goes up to +18 while short term trim for bank 1 remains somewhere in 7. I can also feel the smell of gasoline when idling.
Any ideas? Should I buy a new coil back for bank two at once or check whether any water can be found also from bank 1 wells.

[TheBoy]

I'd only replace one if its starting to fail. Get a decent brand though, such as Bosch.

[polilara]

Yes and thanks for comment, already ordered 0 221 503 027, Bosch.

[polilara]

Assembled yesterday new Bosch coil back for bank two (2-4-6-). What a nice idling. Ordered also 1-3-5 coil back as they seem to be quite cheap now - about 113 € each. Perhaps I need it some day. Thanks for help...

[TheBoy]

Glad you've sorted it, and thanks for posting up the solution/outcome