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[Andrew Lowe]

I apollogise for this not being proper etiquette, jumping in with a question on my first post, BUT....

Have an 02 3.2 Omega Elite estate, and it is driving me bonkers, the ignition will not turn off!

I can turn the key to position 0, even remove the key altogether, still keeps on running!

Only way to stop the engine is to remove the intake tube from the airbox and cover with a book to starve the engine of air.  The ignition lights remain on until I disconnect the battery!

Have fitted a new ignition switch, but that made no difference.

Any and all ideas from you knowledgeable people would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance, Andy

[Kevin Wood]

Sounds like you have a short between a permanent live feed and the ignition switched feed somewhere.

It could be a bit tricky to find. A good place to start would be to turn off the ignition and then remove each fuse from the fusebox one at a time. If you can find one or more whose removal causes the engine to stop, that might give us a clue.

Another good starter for ten is to remove the power sounder if you still have one, as these can do strange things if the battery leaks onto the circuit board, and they do have both an unswitched and switched 12v feed.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90675.0

Welcome to the forum and do let us know how you get on.

[Andrew Lowe]

Thank you sir, was at the car this evening, removed the ignition switch and unplugged it, hooked the battery back up and the ignition lights came on!

your idea is a good plan, will try that tomorrow if it is not pouring with rain.

I disconnected the power sounder,  which appeared to be in good condition, and that made no  difference.

Again, thank you for your input.

[terry paget]

Unusual and fascinating fault. How long have you owned the car? Did any repair precede this fault?
The radio has both switched and unswitched supplies. Has that been disturbed recently?
Otherwise all I can suggest is what Kevin said - with battery connected, and engine dead, pull fuses one by one and note which removals cause ignition light to go out. Unless solution then occurs to you come back here and report. Include fuses under the bonnet.
Good luck!

[Andrew Lowe]

Had the car a couple of years, the rear suspension jacked itself up a few weeks before, but resumed normal height in a couple of miles.

Fitted a new battery, and that seemed to cure the problem for 2 days.   I know from messing with Jaguars, that they are super sensitive to old batteries, and many a weird electrical gremlin has been cured by battery replacement.

Will pull the fuses this afternoon, and report back.

Thanks for the help.

[Kevin Wood]

I've had a dig in the wiring diagrams, and the fuses in the cabin fusebox that I can see, that might feed back into the ignition supply, are as follows:

2 - MID, Brake and hazard / indicator light, Cruise stalk
3 - Wash / wipe system
8 - DRLs - probably not present
9 - Automatic transmission
14 - Washer nozzle heat, Cigar lighter, Climate panel, Power sounder, Servotronic, Key in warning buzzer, Rear blind
15 - All sorts of things including self levelling, heated seat and memory seat controller (under seat wiring might be vulnerable?)
19 - ABS / traction control
29 - Seat heating, consumer delay relay, Cooling fans, interior lamps, airbag

Maybe of some help?

[terry paget]

I've had a dig in the wiring diagrams, and the fuses in the cabin fusebox that I can see, that might feed back into the ignition supply, are as follows:

2 - MID, Brake and hazard / indicator light, Cruise stalk
3 - Wash / wipe system
8 - DRLs - probably not present
9 - Automatic transmission
14 - Washer nozzle heat, Cigar lighter, Climate panel, Power sounder, Servotronic, Key in warning buzzer, Rear blind
15 - All sorts of things including self levelling, heated seat and memory seat controller (under seat wiring might be vulnerable?)
19 - ABS / traction control
29 - Seat heating, consumer delay relay, Cooling fans, interior lamps, airbag

Maybe of some help?

Now I am confused. The above circuits are only live when ignition is switched on. I would have searched first in the circuits live all the while that could 'leak' across into the ignition switched side, like the lights, horn, flashers, and radio constant live. There are so many items switched by the ignition switch that I wonder if there is a relay somewhere to carry the current, if so it would be a prime suspect.

[Kevin Wood]

Ahh.. But, if something is feeding back power into the ignition circuit, the best way to trace it is to eliminate the (relatively few) paths through which something could feed the supply that keeps the engine running (in this case, switched +12V from pin 15 of the ignition switch that feeds the coil packs and ECU).

[terry paget]

It would be interesting to check whether wipers, washers, etc. work along with the engine, I presume they would. Does the ignition switch carry all the current, or does it power a relay which carries the current - must be 50 amps or so - for fuel pump, ignition, heater, heated rear screen, etc.?

[Kevin Wood]

It would be interesting to check whether wipers, washers, etc. work along with the engine, I presume they would. Does the ignition switch carry all the current, or does it power a relay which carries the current - must be 50 amps or so - for fuel pump, ignition, heater, heated rear screen, etc.?

I think the ignition switch directly powers the coil packs and a signal to the ECU. ECU then pulls in the main engine and fuel pump relays that power everything else, so potentially only an amp or two required to keep the engine running.

[terry paget]

It would be interesting to check whether wipers, washers, etc. work along with the engine, I presume they would. Does the ignition switch carry all the current, or does it power a relay which carries the current - must be 50 amps or so - for fuel pump, ignition, heater, heated rear screen, etc.?

I think the ignition switch directly powers the coil packs and a signal to the ECU. ECU then pulls in the main engine and fuel pump relays that power everything else, so potentially only an amp or two required to keep the engine running.

Thanks. Studying Haynes wiring diagrams I find many relays powering fuel pump, etc. Mystery remains why turning off ignition switch (and a change of switch) does not cure fault. I hope it's not the ECU, I don't know how we check that.

[Andrew Lowe]

Not sure how/why this worked... pulled fuse 15 (thanks Kevin) and replaced it, although it was not blown,  hey presto...
engine starts (that was never a problem) and more importantly now turns off with the key!?!?

Had the passengers seat out, as that is the only one that moves, and could not see anything wrong with the wiring.

So at the moment, I am calling it fixed!

Thank you everybody for your assistance, Andy

[terry paget]

Glad it's cured! I don't understand it, I hope Kevin does. Let's hope is does not recur.

[Bigron]

Does the driver's seat move now? maybe that fuse was HR but looked ok?

Ron.

[Andrew Lowe]

Sorry, my fault. the drivers seat always did, still does move.

What i meant was it is only the passenger seat that tends to get moved, and then only occasionally.

As to the prior answer, concerning wipers/washers, yes they worked when the ignition lights were on and with the engine running.