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[gbh]

Help is the word i would use,i've been at it all day on my first change. Were am i at,well followed instructions from dvd and got to first rotation,one thing of note no timing markings on GM belt. So after one rotation timing markings were about 1cm out to the left of center after several turns and adjustments i'm now 2cm out to the left of center. Question of course is how to correct?

[Nick W]

Many belts don't have marks. The ones that do won't line up once you've turned the engine through. Ignore them.


What you must pay attention to is the markings on the cam pulleys and your locking kit.


You must ensure that you have the eccentrics placed so that the belt is tight when you remove the locks. This gives you enough adjustment to accurately time both banks. If yours have moved as much as you say, then you probably have to time your engine from scratch.

[gbh]

The tensioner went slack on 1st rotation i think that's were the problem started. Where and how to start from scratch?

[gbh]

Car is a 2.6 v6 Y reg

[Nick W]

The tensioner went slack on 1st rotation i think that's were the problem started. Where and how to start from scratch?

I believe it's covered in the DVD. But, you carefully turn what you have through until the mark on the crank pulley(need a mirror and torch to see it clearly, and I like a paint mark on both too) is about 60 degrees before TDC. Then you can remove the belt, and use all 3 hands to align the cams and install the locks. Next you rotate the crank with its lock onto the waterpump. Now you fit the belt, ensuring that you have the eccentrics tight against it, and time as the DVD shows.


A 2.6 is easier as you don't have an adjuster on the long belt run.

[gbh]

3 Hands??

[Nick W]

3 Hands??

You need to hold both cams in a specific place, and insert the lock. That makes 3.


Smartarse way of saying it's awkward to do.

[gbh]

Is there any reason why as all 4 cams are the same 2cm away to the left that if i wedged a screwdriver between or cam locks between the cams then remove belt,then move cams to the right 2cm from left to right then put lock back in and retime If crank is locked TDC to begin with?

[gbh]

Getting a bit confused here i think, so with the belt on in its current set up turn the crank until its 60 degrees before TDC which is where on a clock face? Where does the crank mark need to be on a clock face and do i lock it or will it just stop there?

[Andy H]

Is there any reason why as all 4 cams are the same 2cm away to the left that if i wedged a screwdriver between or cam locks between the cams then remove belt,then move cams to the right 2cm from left to right then put lock back in and retime If crank is locked TDC to begin with?

[Andy H]

Getting a bit confused here i think, so with the belt on in its current set up turn the crank until its 60 degrees before TDC which is where on a clock face? Where does the crank mark need to be on a clock face and do i lock it or will it just stop there?

About 10 O'Clock. The crank won't go anywhere but the cams have to be locked because the pressure from valve springs will turn the cams with some force.

[YZ250]

I'm assuming that you have the full locking kit here. The quote below may help you but just ignore the bits regarding the white lines as you say yours is an unmarked belt.  The principle is the same. 
As said, if you are out of position, put the crank to a safe position (search forum if unsure), remove the belt and start again. Check, re-check and treble check before putting it back together and ask again if you are unsure and we will try to guide you through it. 

On the 2.6/3.2 I line up the white line with the crank pulley and then use the wedge, undo the crank locking tool from the water pump and back the crank off a tooth or so, making sure that the belt goes with the crank, so that you can feed the belt ANTI-CLOCKWISE around the lower idler and up to cam 4 and 3. When the lines match the locked cam notches on 3 and 4, rotate the crank back to its locked position on the water pump. Feed the belt under the upper idler/adjuster and up over cams 2 and 1, then around the tensioner. This to me is the only way to keep the tension between cams 3 and 4 and the crank, as there is no other adjustment at this end.  This way you have tension between cams 3, 4 and the crank sorted and the adjuster only has to take the slack from cams 1 and 2.

Hope that makes sense.

The last bit of the thread below may be of some use but would have been better if I'd taken the photos with the checking tool in place. 

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=134336.0

[gbh]

Yes i have the locking kit,so in essence with belt on at the moment rotate the crank to a safe position(unsure where that is) remove the belt then rotate each cam to its timing mark then apply locks then rotate crank to its timing mark(unsure where that is) and apply lock then belt on and retime as per dvd. Does that sound about right?

[YZ250]

Yes i have the locking kit,so in essence with belt on at the moment rotate the crank to a safe position(unsure where that is) remove the belt then rotate each cam to its timing mark then apply locks then rotate crank to its timing mark(unsure where that is) and apply lock then belt on and retime as per dvd. Does that sound about right?

You'll need a mirror and a torch.  Is this the 2.6 in your profile? If it is, I found it easier to use the DVD as a strip down guide but due to having no lower adjuster you will need to feed the belt on anti-clockwise. If you have already rotated the crank with no resistance then I would suggest setting the crank, using a mirror and a torch, so that the crank pulley notch lines up with the casing notch, fit the crank lock and set against the water pump, remove the belt and set the cams correctly. Fit the belt in manner previously suggested. 

[Andy H]

Getting a bit confused here i think, so with the belt on in its current set up turn the crank until its 60 degrees before TDC which is where on a clock face? Where does the crank mark need to be on a clock face and do i lock it or will it just stop there?

About 10 O'Clock. The crank won't go anywhere but the cams have to be locked because the pressure from valve springs will turn the cams with some force.

Hmm - I should have read your words more carefully. I think I had to use a mirror on a stick to see the timing mark on the crank so I guess that must be underneath when the crank is at TDC