Fitting an AR35 from Senator

[Shackeng]

You may recall I queried the fitting of another selector shaft on the RH side of the new box. Not having realised this before I got the car up on stands, I now find that it is the ONLY selector shaft, the LH one having no threaded portion to take the selector linkage, only the electronic switch. (Yes I know I should have spotted this on the AR25 ) It may have been possible to transpose the linkage from left to right with a suitably fabricated final link with the correct angled slot to fit on the RH shaft, but unfortunately it appears impossible to remove the shaft at the gearstick end immediately under the floor in the tunnel, as the shaft is too long to slide out of its mounting in the tunnel with its welded first link attached. I cannot fathom how this was mounted, as there does not appear to be a removable floor plate to access it from above. In any case this is the least preferred option for future proofing.The last option is to swap the selector shaft from the AR25 which is retained, by a rollpin but there is insufficient protruding pin to grip to remove. These were designed to fit and forget.
Bugger!>
It looks like plan C, take the box out, fit a new washer, and repair/replace damaged plate(s). Then take the new box and the AR25 to a transmission shop and ask them to transfer the new stuff.

                                                             Omega box
URL=http://s952.photobucket.com/user/Tristar-1/media/AR35%20Elect%20connections%20002_zps3dgxfru8.jpg.html][/URL]
                                                              Senny box switch only shaft

                                                             Senny box RH selector shaft   

[Shackeng]

I did consider whether it was possible to weld a section onto the shaft end to take the selector, but I'm sure the welding experts will tell me that it would not be possible without destroying the shaft seal an inch or so away. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Is there enough meat to cut a thread on the blank shaft

Alternatively, drill and tap the shaft to accept a retaining bolt/washer

[Andy H]

Roll pins are usually driven in to through holes. To take them out you punch them all the way out the other side.

[Shackeng]

Is there enough meat to cut a thread on the blank shaft No

Alternatively, drill and tap the shaft to accept a retaining bolt/washer I have thought of that, but suspect it is hardened steel.

[Shackeng]

Roll pins are usually driven in to through holes. To take them out you punch them all the way out the other side.

True, but these are blind holes. There are plenty of tips on the web, and I will pursue this route initially.
Thanks all, I shall press on.

[Shackeng]

I did consider whether it was possible to weld a section onto the shaft end to take the selector, but I'm sure the welding experts will tell me that it would not be possible without destroying the shaft seal an inch or so away. 

Although I have since learned that this seal is inserted externally, so could be removed and a new one fitted later. Any welding experts on who could comment?

[Shackeng]

Roll pins are usually driven in to through holes. To take them out you punch them all the way out the other side.

True, but these are blind holes. There are plenty of tips on the web, and I will pursue this route initially.
Thanks all, I shall press on.

Annealing sounds the best suggestion.

[Marks DTM Calib]

I doubt its a hardened shaft, if it was me I would be drilling a centre hole, tapping and inserting short length of stud, then fitting a piece of threaded rod to make the extension.

Grind a small flat on the joint between the two pieces and a dab of weld, wont damage the seal then and you don't need much to stop it turning.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Actually scratch that as you don't need much extension at all.

[Shackeng]

I doubt its a hardened shaft, if it was me I would be drilling a centre hole, tapping and inserting short length of stud, then fitting a piece of threaded rod to make the extension.

Grind a small flat on the joint between the two pieces and a dab of weld, wont damage the seal then and you don't need much to stop it turning.

That certainly looks like an option Mark, although I am concerned at the possibility of it unscrewing in use. I've had a closer look at the internals and the shaft goes through the new box, with one half fitted inside, and joined with a rollpin, a larger section in the other, adjacent to the coxcomb plate (serrated changer plate). To replace this with an Omega change shaft, I need to remove the gubbins which has the solenoids attached. This is not difficult to remove, just a few bolts as attach the filter. I would then need to remove the unused portion of the shaft, and block its exit hole. However, my experience of motorbike gearboxes is not good, with ball bearings and springs appearing all over the place when things are dismantled, so I am loath to remove this section without further information as to what is inside it. In the meantime I am removing my AR35 to replace the thrust washer.

[Doctor Gollum]

An older Haynes manual, ie from the late '80s for the Senator B may well have the info you seek...  certainly the Ones I had from that vintage included things like gearbox internals, suroof workings and all sorts of other deatil that simply isn't present in their newer manuals...

Also have a rummage on ebay.com for 4L30e workshop manuals

[Shackeng]

An older Haynes manual, ie from the late '80s for the Senator B may well have the info you seek...  certainly the Ones I had from that vintage included things like gearbox internals, suroof workings and all sorts of other deatil that simply isn't present in their newer manuals...

Also have a rummage on ebay.com for 4L30e workshop manuals

Thks Al.

[Mr Gav]

Not a great deal of info on the sludgepump in the manual but PM me your address and I`ll send you it asap 

[Kevin Wood]

I have a feeling there was a 4L30E manual floating around.. I'll have a rummage.

Might be worth taking it and the broken one to a transmission repairer and get him to swap the shafts over? Probably wouldn't cost much and they'd be used to all the ball bearings that are liable to drop out.