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[Sir Tigger KC]

Potterton Profile conventional boiler, with hot water tank next to it and feed and expansion tank in the loft.

The boiler seems to run fine for a while and all the radiators get hot, but then it will give a big gurgle and shuts down.    This also happens when heating water, but the gurgle is worse and the boiler shuts down more often!  Sounds like there is a lot of air in the pipes around the boiler and hot water tank. 

I've bled all the rads and they're fine, I've opened the bleed valve above the 3 way valve and that was fine, and I've checked the feed and expansion tank and that's OK, the pump appears to be running OK, and apart from draining down the system and refilling it I'm out of ideas! 

Might there be an airlock somewhere in the pipes around the boiler and hot water tank? 

Any advice appreciated please!  I'm bleddy freezing!!   

TIA! 

[Marks DTM Calib]

When you say it shuts down, does it trip the thermal trip (reset underneath?)

[STEMO]

I'm trying to think what I did when ours did this

[STEMO]

Oh yeah.......called a plumber 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Oh yeah.......called a plumber 

But he wants it fixing..........

[Sir Tigger KC]

When you say it shuts down, does it trip the thermal trip (reset underneath?)

No I don't think so, as it will start up again after a while without intervention. 

As if it's got up to temp and shuts down until the thermostat tells it to start up again. 

[Sir Tigger KC]

Oh yeah.......called a plumber 

But he wants to fix it..........

Fixed! 

[STEMO]

Oh yeah.......called a plumber 

But he wants it fixing..........

I suppose he could take it to bits.......then call a plumber...or boiler fixerer.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Ok so that suggests that its the standard boiler stat shutting it off because the return temperature is high, that points to either the pump not circulating (check it for air via the large screw cap) or its seized (give it a belt to see if it runs).

An easy way to check is to demand heat for either the rads or water and check the temperature of the pipe to the pump.

Also, do you know if its an S (multiple 2 way valves) plan or Y/W plan system (mid position valve)?

[STEMO]

Oh dear.....he's gone.........probably to get his tools.........oh dear......

[Marks DTM Calib]

Just re-read your post.....is the feed and vent clear from the header tank?

[Kevin Wood]

Not a Fry's house, is it?

Plumber who did ours seemingly had difficulty with the concept of water flowing downhill and air collecting at the top (right where he'd located the pump).

[Sir Tigger KC]

I think it's a Y/W plan as there's only one valve (3 way). The F/E tank seemed OK, it had water in it, the vent is clear of the water level and the ball valve operates OK.

I think the pump is OK as the rads get hot....  I'll check again though. 
 
Not a Fry's house Kevin! 

Piss off STEMO, yer not helping!   

[STEMO]

I think it's a Y/W plan as there's only one valve (3 way). The F/E tank seemed OK, it had water in it, the vent is clear of the water level and the ball valve operates OK.

I think the pump is OK as the rads get hot....  I'll check again though. 
 
Not a Fry's house Kevin! 

Piss off STEMO, yer not helping!   

That's nice. I won't bother then. 

[Kevin Wood]

I think it's a Y/W plan as there's only one valve (3 way). The F/E tank seemed OK, it had water in it, the vent is clear of the water level and the ball valve operates OK.

I think the pump is OK as the rads get hot....  I'll check again though. 
 
Not a Fry's house Kevin! 

Piss off STEMO, yer not helping!   

It's possible the feed or vent pipes have been blocked if there's a bit of crusty stuff in the system.