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[Bojan]

Gentleman,

how do you split tapers when you change tie-rods?
Do you use splitting tools (there are several variants)?
Or do you use a hammers (two hammers on the 'eye' part, or hammer on nut with other as counterweight)?

I've planed to borrow a splitting tool, but apparently nobody uses them - everybody uses hammers.

[BazaJT]

I've tried the two hammer way and never had much success,so personally I use a splitter,but of course it's each to their own.

[Nick W]

Gentleman,

how do you split tapers when you change tie-rods?
Do you use splitting tools (there are several variants)?
Or do you use a hammers (two hammers on the 'eye' part, or hammer on nut with other as counterweight)?

I've planed to borrow a splitting tool, but apparently nobody uses them - everybody uses hammers.

Hammers, are easier, more effective, quicker and you own them already.
It does take a heavy blow, not a light tap. Hit the eye, not the joint.


Track rods probably won't need a second hammer.

[terry paget]

I have used 2 hammers in the past, but if there is a better, easier, safer, way of doing a job, I go for it. Some Omega steering and suspension joints are jolly hard to get apart, like the idler arm, with its limited access.

[X30XE]

I've tried the two hammer way and never had much success,so personally I use a splitter,but of course it's each to their own.

Likewise.  I have both the fork and the screw-y type splitters. Downside is the fork type destroys the rubber boot and the srew one doesn't always fit

Also don't be tempted to clout the end of the threaded pin with a hammer if refitting the link. You'll destroy the thread and create another hours work.

[TheBoy]

I use a splitter for TREs (the type with bolt, not fork type), and 2 hammers for idler etc

[Lazydocker]

Used properly and carefully, the fork type is very effective and doesn't always (think I've only split 1 in the last 4 years and that was a ballpoint that was being binned anyway!) split the boot... But mine is a good quality one, not a cheap one.

I've never had much success with the 2 hammer method, probably because I've not been patient enough. 

[Bojan]

I'm fitting new links.
So damage to the thread or boots is not a problem.

BTW, how heavy hammers do you use?
I'll probably taka 0,5kg.

[TheBoy]

I'm fitting new links.
So damage to the thread or boots is not a problem.

BTW, how heavy hammers do you use?
I'll probably taka 0,5kg.

I use a pair of 4lb (approx 2kg)

[Nick W]

Likewise.  I have both the fork and the screw-y type splitters. Downside is the fork type destroys the rubber boot and the srew one doesn't always fit

I have a couple of different fork splitters, and both screw types, but haven't used them in years.
A club hammer(and 0.5kg is too small) is less work.

[X30XE]

Would be good to master the art of tw-a-tting them out with a hammer... however my neighbour likes to glare out of his window at me at the best of times, let alone when I'm leathering seven shades out of a metal object 

[Doctor Gollum]

Would be good to master the art of tw-a-tting them out with a hammer... however my neighbour likes to glare out of his window at me at the best of times, let alone when I'm leathering seven shades out of a metal object 

After 17 years of shit cars, mine are pretty tolerant Apart from the rsol two doors down who thinks it's acceptable to leave a mates car across the drive whilst they sod off skiing for a week but then they only moved in last autumn...

[Bojan]

Hammers, are easier, more effective, quicker and you own them already.
It does take a heavy blow, not a light tap. Hit the eye, not the joint.


Track rods probably won't need a second hammer.

Just one hammer? What do you hit?

I se that some hit the top of the thread (of the tie rod that is being renewed), while some hit the eye (center rod or wheel arm).

[Bigron]

No need to hammer away for half a day; it usually takes one or two hits! The secret is to have a heavy (I use a 4 pound club hammer) BEHIND the joint and hit with another, lighter (not too light) hammer at the front. That way, most of the force goes into "popping" the joint and not moving it away from the blows.

Ron.

[Bojan]

No need to hammer away for half a day; it usually takes one or two hits! The secret is to have a heavy (I use a 4 pound club hammer) BEHIND the joint and hit with another, lighter (not too light) hammer at the front. That way, most of the force goes into "popping" the joint and not moving it away from the blows.

Ron.

Yes, this is what i meant by 'counterweight' in my first post.