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[robson]

I am very sorry but I have got my water pump confused with my thermostat. whaler was for the thermostat my pump I got from gm at a cost of £83.00 in 2013.

[robson]

Having got my act together can I suggest that we should be recommending fitting a new thermostat and transfer pipe whilst the front is stripped down. Not too expensive and peace of  mind.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Wahler thermostats are a good choice imo. 
Although, if the present one is behaving itself, I wouldn't change it for the sake of it.

[omegod]

Good on you Bill for having a go, I've never tried one myself but good luck

Did you ever change the front wing on your Elite? I have a pair in Z147 silver and you are welcome to whichever you need if you still do, let me know

[shyboy]

Robson. Your profile doesn't show your age but I can assure you that such confusion will get worse and worse and worse as time goes by.  The cooling system has always been well looked after with correct anti-freeze so I don't think I'll do the thermostat and transfer pipe on this occasion. My only experience of this job was at a meet at Timbuk's place many years ago when I watched Hotel21 struggle for two hours to remove the transfer pipe from Kate's Omega, having to resort to brute force in the end. But thanks for the suggestion.
Jon. Thanks for the offer. If you recall it was the front bumper that had taken the hit (the wings are both OK), and I've got the one from the gold estate which you kindly gave me, and the one from Minifreek which you saw me repairing. (This latter is now nicely primed up and I must say I'm very pleased with my efforts on it, especially as it was done with spray cans). It will be sensible to ask a paint shop to do the final finish though, and then try to find the time to fit it. Don't hesitate to let me know if you want to witness any part of my losing my cambelt virginity. 
Regards,
Bill.

[robson]

Hello Bill yes 3 score years and twenty does take its toll as does the heat. All the best for the cambelt job

[shyboy]

Thanks Robson. We wrinklies have a lot to offer this forum if only we could remember what it is.
I'll report back out of interest if I survive the ordeal.   

[Bigron]

I've not done mine, but I have watched James do it. From watching him and from what I've read on here from other members it isn't that difficult, but check, check and check again to be absolutely sure that you have got it right before attempting to run the engine.
I wish you every success. 

Ron.

[shyboy]

Excellent advice which I shall follow absolutely. The same way I check doors, windows and lights at least three times before I leave the house.

[Bigron]

Reminiscent of Edie Pegden, the vile archetypal Ma-in-Law  (played by Horror Turd) from last of the Summer Wine! 

Ron.

[Strangechap]

As far as i can remember .someone please correct me if im wrong here but can you not change the waterpimp on a v6 without taking anything off the engine at all? Just the bagpipes for acess.i seem to remember the bolts are all easy to get at once its pulley is off ?

Yes, you can. It's fiddly and you need to be careful to:

a) Not crack the cambelt cover when you undo the waterpump bolts, as your socket/extension bar will be pressing against it
b) Not drop anything into the covers while removing the pump or while it's out.

I did it. I did crack the plastic cambelt cover a little, but nothing major and I put rag inside the cover to stop anything falling down.

[shyboy]

Need a little advice please.
Cam locking tool dropped into place on Cams 1 & 2 but 3 & 4 cams are slightly advanced. I'm not sure how the idler adjusters work. Do I have to loosen the centre torx bolt before adjusting the idler position, obviously tightening it again when correct position is reached. The video shows Mark adjusting the upper idler position to adjust cams 1 & 2 without doing this.
I can't work out how to retard cams 3 & 4. How do I do this?
TIA

[JamesV6CDX]

Need a little advice please.
Cam locking tool dropped into place on Cams 1 & 2 but 3 & 4 cams are slightly advanced. I'm not sure how the idler adjusters work. Do I have to loosen the centre torx bolt before adjusting the idler position, obviously tightening it again when correct position is reached. The video shows Mark adjusting the upper idler position to adjust cams 1 & 2 without doing this.
I can't work out how to retard cams 3 & 4. How do I do this?
TIA

Remove the locks, Spin the crank again, and lock cams 3 and 4 first when they arrive at the correct position.

With cams three and four locked correctly, slightly loosen the E12 torx bolt on the upper idler. The. slowly rotate the top adjustable idler anti clockwise using a 30mm offset ring spanner.

This will then bring cams 1 and 2 into alignment, enabling you to lock them in the correct position.

If you want some (hands on) help, give me a shout. No charge

[shyboy]

Hi James,
Nice to hear from you. I hope you are continuing to improve injury wise.
Thanks for clarifying the business of adjusting cams 3 & 4. Seeing Mark adjusting the centre idler without appearing to first loosen the Torx bolt threw me, even though logic told me what I should be doing.
You are a star of the highest order and I will pick your brains again if necessary, but I think I've got it cracked now thanks to your advice.
Will get back to it tomorrow, Sunday, weather permitting.
Thanks again,
Bill.

[shyboy]

Just to put this one to bed, this job has been completed due the incredible generosity and assistance of James, who travelled up here, (or is it down), to dig me out of a little mess. 400 mile round trip!!!     I think he must love me. 
The car is now going like a bat out of hell again. The man's a genius.
Thanks yet again, James.
Bill.