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[powerslinky]

110mA is a massive drain on a battery. I’d be hunting things down to try and find where it’s going. Shouldn’t be too difficult really. If you have the radio code then just start pulling fuses. The big underbonnet fuses generally feed groups of smaller ones in the other fuse boxes so should narrow it down quite quickly.

My trusty Mondeo (departed yesterday  ) was left for periods of a month on several occasions and started on the button each time.

But 70mA  is OK ?   

 As this is the figure quoted as normal , if I have understood it correctly, in Kevin Wood's guide on here

So pulling fuses ?   is it just the case of getting the multi meter reading the 0.11  & then pull out each fuse in the cabin fuse box one at a time to see if the reading changes after each one is pulled ?
As you can see I really dont do too much electrickery 

[cam.in.head]

Mine can be parked untouched for maybee three weeks at a time and never has any hint of a problem or even a slow crank so either its got an extremely good battery or im lucky.car is a standard spec 2.6 cdx with a halfords battery which was on car when i got it and didnt look particularly new then(2015).so leaving a car for a week certainly shouldnt be a problem.

[Nick W]

Mine can be parked untouched for maybe three weeks at a time and never has any hint of a problem or even a slow crank so either its got an extremely good battery or I'm lucky. car is a standard spec 2.6 cdx with a halfords battery which was on car when I got it and didn't look particularly new then(2015). so leaving a car for a week certainly shouldn't be a problem.

If you can't leave it for 3 to 4 weeks, then it has a problem. Fixing that should take priority over bodges like permanently connected chargers, which only affect the symptom not the fault.

[powerslinky]

Mine can be parked untouched for maybe three weeks at a time and never has any hint of a problem or even a slow crank so either its got an extremely good battery or I'm lucky. car is a standard spec 2.6 cdx with a halfords battery which was on car when I got it and didn't look particularly new then(2015). so leaving a car for a week certainly shouldn't be a problem.

If you can't leave it for 3 to 4 weeks, then it has a problem. Fixing that should take priority over bodges like permanently connected chargers, which only affect the symptom not the fault.

agree Nick . .  trying to get an answer to my post  about pulling fuses 

[Doctor Gollum]

Be either of the two fuses nearest the wing

That's to say make sure the key works in the drivers door, then lock the car and pull both the above fuses before closing the bonnet... alternative is to disconnect the battery negative

[Nick W]

Mine can be parked untouched for maybe three weeks at a time and never has any hint of a problem or even a slow crank so either its got an extremely good battery or I'm lucky. car is a standard spec 2.6 cdx with a halfords battery which was on car when I got it and didn't look particularly new then(2015). so leaving a car for a week certainly shouldn't be a problem.

If you can't leave it for 3 to 4 weeks, then it has a problem. Fixing that should take priority over bodges like permanently connected chargers, which only affect the symptom not the fault.

agree Nick . .  trying to get an answer to my post  about pulling fuses 

Why not move into the twentieth century? Try one of these LINK

[Entwood]

Mine can be parked untouched for maybe three weeks at a time and never has any hint of a problem or even a slow crank so either its got an extremely good battery or I'm lucky. car is a standard spec 2.6 cdx with a halfords battery which was on car when I got it and didn't look particularly new then(2015). so leaving a car for a week certainly shouldn't be a problem.

If you can't leave it for 3 to 4 weeks, then it has a problem. Fixing that should take priority over bodges like permanently connected chargers, which only affect the symptom not the fault.

agree Nick . .  trying to get an answer to my post  about pulling fuses 

Why not move into the twentieth century? Try one of these LINK

I have one of those, extremely useful piece of kit

[powerslinky]

Be either of the two fuses nearest the wing

That's to say make sure the key works in the drivers door, then lock the car and pull both the above fuses before closing the bonnet... alternative is to disconnect the battery negative

OK Doc . . . "nearest the wing"  must mean the under bonnet triangle fuse box ?

If so  . .there are 5 fuses that I can see  . . 3 small ones &  2 fused links  all others are relays.

I have got the multi meter set up & reading the usual 0.11 A with occasioal fluctuation to 0.05  or 0.07

The 0.11 reading is after about 9/10 mins  . . previous to that it is 0.36 A  slowly steeping down to 0.11

I have pulled all of these fuses one at a time & no difference to the reading   

Shall I start pulling the cabin fuses one by one ?  Don't have one of gadgets advised by Nick W

Any furtuer advice greatly appriciated       Al

EDIT:  while writing this just realised you may mean the square box that sits on top of the battery  . . .gonna check now 

[powerslinky]

OK large fused links in that one . . ..BUT   got a hunch it may be something to do with the Sony HU

Removed fuse 12   & reading goes down to 0.01 . . . . of course I know that this fuse runs other stuff . .

gonna whip the radio out first & see if it will maintain 0.01 with it disconnected 

will report back soon 

[powerslinky]

FOUND IT

Happy Days  . . . .  Sony MiniDisc/Radio unit  draining power .   Pulled & unplugged HU & power drain went straight down to 0.01 . . . .  reconnected & it went back to 0.11

Problem found  . . . will leave unit disconnected & monitor battery after the end of this week

So looks like I  need to lookout for another OE  HU

Thanks to all who advised 

[Nick W]

Check that the HU is wired correctly first, especially the permanent live.

[powerslinky]

Check that the HU is wired correctly first, especially the permanent live.

Yep good point that Mr. W   . . seem to recall that I was  told to switch the live & permanent around on sonys otherwise station memory etc. will not work . . . .do you think that may be the problem . A red & a yellow wire were switched  if I remember

Probably best to just go back to a OE head unit though

[Kevin Wood]

Check that the HU is wired correctly first, especially the permanent live.

Yep good point that Mr. W   . . seem to recall that I was  told to switch the live & permanent around on sonys otherwise station memory etc. will not work . . . .do you think that may be the problem . A red & a yellow wire were switched  if I remember

Probably best to just go back to a OE head unit though

Yep, the OE head units are normally wired with these two power feeds the opposite way round to an aftermarket head unit. Before taking it out, I'd measure with a multimeter to see if the correct power connection is staying live with the key out. If it's wrongly wired, that would almost certainly explain why you have excessive current drain.

[Doctor Gollum]

Not unusual for them to have the facility to plug both the live and switched feeds together (double socket on the red lead iirc), which possibly allows leakage back into the switched side of the car... the radio won't be drawing the extra current, but rather the car itself via the relay, possibly the consumer relay or headlight switch

A better solution is perhaps to swap the red and yellow pins at the radio side of the DIN plug in order to retain the two separate feeds

[powerslinky]

OK . . Thanks Kevin & Doc G  . . .I will check that out tomorrow