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[Jimbob]

So big blue has a noise that’s been going on a little bit.

It’s coming from the rear and sounds a bit like the brake pads are catching. Took them out cleaned up callipers and it remains.

It varies in noticeable ness with road surface and speed. Can also feel the ‘pulse’ through the handbrake. I can’t detect play, but I rarely can to be honest.

Blue is now at 172k and I think they are both original.

With the back of the car in the air with engine on and in drive it is noticable. Wheels don’t spin particularly freely if spin by hand so think there is resistance somewhere

Evident both side but passenger side is worst.

Thoughts? I was thinking brakes initially and could still be tempted to take the callipers off and give them a good clean but not very hopeful after the pad out clean didn’t do a lot

Thinking now to chuck it in for both wheel bearings. No way am I attempting it myself if it is that.

[amba]

On my old Elite it was very evident when you applied more load to 1 side than the other ..either by steering at around 40/50mph or when turning at similar speed.

Agree with not whishing to attempt replacing yourself 

[LC0112G]

Which pads have you cleaned up? The pads in the rear calipers, or the handbrake shoes inside the drums?

I'd be replacing the handbrake shoes before attacking the bearings. The bearings make a rumbling sound IME. And yes, the bearings are a git to change.

[Jimbob]

Normal pads. Shoes and disks all 2 years and 12000 miles old

Noise doesn’t change a lot with the handbrake on

[Nick W]

With some basic tooling, rear wheel bearings are a simple job. £30 part and 2 hours in the street for your first one.

[Andy B]

Aren't rear wheel bearings Serek's forte? 

[Andy H]

With some basic tooling, rear wheel bearings are a simple job. £30 part and 2 hours in the street for your first one.

You are too modest. Your idea of basic tooling goes a bit beyond the norm.

[Nick W]

With some basic tooling, rear wheel bearings are a simple job. £30 part and 2 hours in the street for your first one.

You are too modest. Your idea of basic tooling goes a bit beyond the norm.

2 minutes snotting three pieces of scrap together on the car and a £30 generic bearing puller set? I'm a mechanic, NOT a technician

[Andy H]

Tools that I used / couldn't have done without which I don't think most people have in their tool set are

3/4" socket set to undo the drive flange nut (a long 1/2" breaker bar might have worked but I don't like the amount of spring in a 1/2" bar)
3/4" torque wrench to do it up again afterwards
FWD bearing puller / removal set (same as NickW's)


If I had an extra long tri-square XZN spline bit I would have been able to remove two of the brake backplate bolts  and then use my bearing puller /separator set to press the axle out of the suspension arm (or I could have spent a couple of hours digging out the welder and finding suitable bits of scrap metal to make a copy of NickW's tool).

[Nick W]

Tools that I used / couldn't have done without which I don't think most people have in their tool set are

3/4" socket set to undo the drive flange nut (a long 1/2" breaker bar might have worked but I don't like the amount of spring in a 1/2" bar)

If I had an extra long tri-square XZN spline bit I would have been able to remove two of the brake backplate bolts  and then use my bearing puller /separator set to press the axle out of the suspension arm (or I could have spent a couple of hours digging out the welder and finding suitable bits of scrap metal to make a copy of NickW's tool).

I've done five now, and none of them have been tight to undo. Torquing them is right at the end of my wrench's limit, but  access is the problem due to the back-to-front design of the hub. If GM had used a normal bolt through CV joint, instead of one attached to the driveshaft, no special tools would have been necessary.

[Andy H]

I have done one and it was tight.

If I can remember to order some extra long XZN bits I will happily change the other side if it gets noisy.

I could probably do the job in 2 hours if I could find all the tools (without having to turn my workshop upside down) and didn't drink too many cups of tea 

[zirk]

If its an Estate with 172k on the Clock my money is on it will be Wheel Bearings.

[Nick W]

If its an Estate with 172k on the Clock my money is on it will be Wheel Bearings.

and probably the N/S one.

[polilara]

Tools that I used / couldn't have done without which I don't think most people have in their tool set are

3/4" socket set to undo the drive flange nut (a long 1/2" breaker bar might have worked but I don't like the amount of spring in a 1/2" bar)
3/4" torque wrench to do it up again afterwards
FWD bearing puller / removal set (same as NickW's)


If I had an extra long tri-square XZN spline bit I would have been able to remove two of the brake backplate bolts  and then use my bearing puller /separator set to press the axle out of the suspension arm (or I could have spent a couple of hours digging out the welder and finding suitable bits of scrap metal to make a copy of NickW's tool).

Should change my right side rear bearing, too:

1. Where to buy a suitable bearing pulling set like here in pic?
2. Are back plates still available - the plate where hand brake shoes are?

[Nick W]

search Ebay for wheel bearing puller

I wouldn't bother changing the other bearing until it fails. If it fails.


What is wrong with the backing plate?