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[polilara]

Planning to start changing rear wheel bearing, right side first. For safety would like to use stands, old wheels etc. Any recommendation for good places for those axle stands?

[Doctor Gollum]

Triangular plate on the subframe mount, with care you can jack it and place the stand on the same plate, but takes a bit of practice and experimenting to make it work.

From memory the axle stand locates on the side which is bolted deeper than the other two corners. This will make sense when you look at it

[Nick W]

When I've done rear wheel bearings, I put the axle stands exactly where Al suggested.


Just out of interest, why are you doing both bearings? They're the sort of part and job that is best done only when necessary.

[polilara]

Thanks DG and Nick W for tips. Right side is noisy and I remember someone here recommended to change them both.

[Doctor Gollum]

Thanks DG and Nick W for tips. Right side is noisy and I remember a complete psychopath recommended to change them both.

Fixed

[polilara]

I almost started this but I did not understand the recommended location where to put thestand. Triangle found but it looks thin and weak. In center of it there is a bolt and below that there is a rubber. Would it be bad idea to put it in the center?

[Nick W]

Put the jack under the pivot of the suspension arm, and the stand under the triangle. That's all you need; don't over think it.

[polilara]

OK, ok, thanks. I do my best.

[polilara]

Still two things,
1. Does anybody remember the size of the hub nut
2. Is the right side nut with normal right hand thread, I can borrow a big impact tool up to 2000Nm, just want to confirm that I do not break anything...

[Doctor Gollum]

36mm and 270NM iirc

[Enceladus]

36mm and 270NM iirc

300Nm methinks? Not that it makes it any easier.

[Nick W]

36mm nut. They're both RH threads.
You probably won't get a 2000nm gun in the space!


Every knackered bearing I've replaced has been easy to undo; tightening them can be interesting.


How are you intending to extract the hub from the bearing?

[polilara]

Morning

Thanks for all about dimension info and encouraging me (Nick W) that the nut is easy to remove...

1. Concerning the torque my friend has something like the enclosed Chicago one, not exactly this but similar; 1620 ft-lbs is higher than 2000 Nm if 1 ft-lb is 1.36 Nm and if I understood right (usually not).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chicago-Pneumatic-1-Drive-Impact-Wrench-with-6-Anvil-CP7778-6/132106872144?epid=1723724924&hash=item1ec22ee550:g:ktgAAOSw4C5cm6KP

2. Extracting the hub from the bearing the idea was to use method presented in Jan Suhr's nice guide, are there any alternative methods without special tools?
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130619.0

3. Tightenig to 300 Nm is about 30kg by using 1 meter torsion bar, my weight is about 75 kg so with 1/2m something bolted to hub was my idea, any suggestions here?

[Doctor Gollum]

3. I used a torque wrench

Actual setting is 320 NM

My torque wrench only goes to 300, so did it up with that plus a BFT smidge with a bar

[polilara]

OK, 320Nm when it is time for that. But I am going ahead: Shock lower mount, brakepads and drive shaft is away. As the shoes do not touch the drum when rotating the disc I can hear quite metallic sound so perhaps the diagnosis of bearing failure is correct and I continue tomorrow. I have 260 000 km behind and believe that it is time to change the bearing. Should it last longer?