Headlight dropping to bits

[TheSoulDoctor_123]

And onto the next thing...

So basically, I'm going over the omega putting lots of annoying niggly things right:
So far...

Speaker suspension foam repaired with 'tacky glue' and ready to go back in.

Tie rods ordered, as the adjusters are seized on the originals and the tracking is out enough that the steering wheel is quarter to the left.

Boot struts ordered, since the car tried to bite me clean in half last time I had to get something from right at the back of the boot.

Rear lights all fitted with new bulbs, as the lid slammed shut with enough force to shatter all the bulbs, which obviously wouldn't have happened if I'd been reaching into the boot to get something from right at the back...

Headlights now clean, clear and minty fresh.  "While I'm on," I thought, "I'll fit those nightbreakers I bought for the other car and never fitted."  Obviously, they were the wrong size for the Omega lights.

However, when I put the old bulb back in, I noticed the entire reflector is loose and rattling around inside the light unit freely.  Is this a common thing? Does anyone know how to fix it please? Presumably the light comes apart somehow once I've got it out of the car?

On a positive note, I may just have tracked down the annoting rattling noise from that corner of the car when I go over rough roads...

[Nick W]

Your headlight is a very common problem, and it means the plastic adjuster is broken. The fix used to be about £15 worth of machined aluminium adjusters. They are no longer available, although you might be able to find some cast resin ones with an attached ball that are nearly as good.


A used headlight is another way, but it's only worth buying one that already has the metal adjuster.





left to right: an intact adjuster(although it is cracked), the wreckage that you normally find, the NLA aluminium part, and the may still be available resin piece.

[TheSoulDoctor_123]

Thanks loads for the info Nick, and that photo is really helpful too. At least I know what I'm trying to look for.  Is the resin one a Vauxhall part, or do I source it elsewhere?
Thank you,

John.

[Nick W]

Does it look like an OE part?


Having fitted several, it's clearly made in a mould that was made from a standard part with the metal ball inserted before the resin is poured. Try Ebay.


With that said, I would now at least consider machining my own from aluminium although would probably attach the ball. This would be done on a small, benchtop mill, so would look crude in comparison with the one-piece, CNC machined parts in the photo. Why didn't I machine some when I needed them for my own car? Because it wasn't worth the time and effort when I could buy a pair for £20 that were a straight bolt-on. This is not justifiable as a job, so please don't ask

[cam.in.head]

if you have a welder or know someone who has they can be made from a piece of flatplate that will slide in the slot and with a nut welded on one side and a rounded ball welded on the other. this can then be fitted without having to dismantle the headlight .i did both mine this way and is a lot easier than removing the lens.yes its fiddly but totally possible.
if you find a proper ( or copy) adjuster dont think theres enough room to do it without lense removal ?

[dave the builder]

if you have a welder or know someone who has they can be made from a piece of flatplate that will slide in the slot and with a nut welded on one side and a rounded ball welded on the other. this can then be fitted without having to dismantle the headlight .i did both mine this way and is a lot easier than removing the lens.yes its fiddly but totally possible.
if you find a proper ( or copy) adjuster dont think theres enough room to do it without lense removal ?

That's very interesting 
don't suppose you can remember the size of ball and the thread size 
I've not had any failures yet ,and have spare headlights BUT it's always good to have a plan c 

[Nick W]

if you have a welder or know someone who has they can be made from a piece of flatplate that will slide in the slot and with a nut welded on one side and a rounded ball welded on the other. this can then be fitted without having to dismantle the headlight .i did both mine this way and is a lot easier than removing the lens.yes its fiddly but totally possible.
if you find a proper ( or copy) adjuster dont think theres enough room to do it without lense removal ?

That's very interesting 
don't suppose you can remember the size of ball and the thread size 
I've not had any failures yet ,and have spare headlights BUT it's always good to have a plan c 

That's an excellent idea! I still have the complete, but cracked adjuster in my photo so will provide some measurements.


The thread is M5.


Having refurbished several sets of lamps, I can't see any way of fitting the adjuster that is easier than removing the lens. That takes a few seconds of prying after you've softened the adhesive in an oven for 5minutes. It also enables you to polish the inside of the lens, lubricate or replace some of the other clips and clean all the crap out of the body. New bulbs are a good idea on reassembly; I was surprised at how dull the old were.

[addy]

I have thought about getting some aliminium cans melt them and pour into a mold on many occasions but not got round to it. The next door neighbour can supply me with plenty of cans, they fill the recycle bin and have boxes full, every week.

[dave the builder]

I was just thinking/wondering about
the ball from this clicky with
one of these clicky

thread on the ball would probably be wrong but a bit of snot / araldite /JB weld would sort that 

[Andy B]

How about 3D printing? 

[Nick W]

Here's a quick model of the stock adjuster:





The main body is 36mm long, 22 across the base and about 18 high. The flanges are 4.5 thick and wide. Thread is M5, and 7mm above the bottom face. The ball is 8mm diameter, and protrudes 13.5 from the front edge and is 8.2mm above the bottom face.


Here's a simple fabricated version, using those basic dimensions:





Base is 36x22x4.5 and the uprights are 10x10x6 each threaded M5 but at the mentioned different heights. Ball is an 8mm ball bearing(<£2 for 10 on Ebay) soldered to M5 rod. Attach the uprights by welding, soldering, bolts, adhesive, whatever is easiest. That should be achievable by anyone with a hacksaw, file and drill.




If the flanges need to be stepped as in the top model, that's another file job.


Models are Fusion360, and I'll send them to anyone who wants them.

[dave the builder]

That's excellent Nick 

thanks for taking the time to document it 

[cam.in.head]

thanks nick. yes i just made a very similar idea using a flat plate. m5 nut welded on and i used a cap head bolt ground to a round end.   worked fine and yes it was possible to get it in. ok its fiddly but i managed it so anyone else could too.
my actual plastic lens was ok inside and i managed to clean the glass lense for the hid from the back too.
only issue i could imagine by removing the lense is that you need to be 100% sure when its back on that it is watertight. nothing looks worse (apart from cloudy plastic !) than a headlamp full of condensation.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

How about 3D printing? 

I have a vague memory that Serek was 3D printing them ? I also have a vague memory that I bought a pair of them from him.
May have been a dream though. 

[Nick W]

I have thought about getting some aliminium cans melt them and pour into a mold on many occasions but not got round to it. The next door neighbour can supply me with plenty of cans, they fill the recycle bin and have boxes full, every week.

You need a LOT of cans to get even a tiny casting. They're not a particularly good grade of aluminium for that either. It would be more efficient to melt existing castings like wheels, calipers, bearing rails, water pumps etc