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[Migalot]

It left the factory with 0420/0430 codes.

Nothing to say that those other codes weren't already present in the new ecu.

Running new wires is no big deal, likewise cleaning connectors.

Incidentally, all those codes are for the same sensor... Passenger side pre cat.

Yes, I'm on my 3rd passenger side pre cat sensor. It is possible those codes were present in the replacement ECU, but one hell of a coincidence! 

Running new wires is a very big deal for me – well beyond my comfort zone!. In any event, I wouldn't know where to start – for example, which is the relevant ECU pin? There are loads of them in the two looms that connect to it!!   

[Doctor Gollum]

When you start digging into, you soon get into it.

You could forgive a garage for not getting too involved when the replaced the first sensor, but not checking the wiring after the second one is just plain lazy.

Have you swapped the sensors over so the B1S1 is plugged into the B2S1 loom and vice versa.

If the fault remains at B2S1 then the loom is the likely issue.

Start there and report back 

[Migalot]

When you start digging into, you soon get into it.

You could forgive a garage for not getting too involved when the replaced the first sensor, but not checking the wiring after the second one is just plain lazy.

Have you swapped the sensors over so the B1S1 is plugged into the B2S1 loom and vice versa.

If the fault remains at B2S1 then the loom is the likely issue.

Start there and report back 

The garage did a visual check when it was on the ramps (with me alongside). A proper circuit check is not possible unless you know the relevant EC pin/wire. I only have on-street parking and I can't easily get underneath so I would need to go back and get it on a lift again to do the swap test.

[Doctor Gollum]

The only way to check wiring is to test it. A cursory glance will only show obvious external defects.

Where abouts in the grand scheme of things are you?

[JamesV6CDX]

Re the small vacc pipe, I remember noticing this during the cambelt change, but because it was so mangled and brittle I think we planned to sort it another time. If I forgot that then my apologies.

The threshold codes can genuinely be ignored. They do no harm and don't alter the running at all - they are a feature, not a fault!

The lambda related fault, was never going to be with the ECU. The ECU's are ultra reliable.

I still suspect a break in continuity in the loom. If the ECU is ok, and the sensor is OK, there isn't much left. The heater open circuit code is fairly cut and dry. Usually it's a failed lambda, and then after that, an issue with the heater wire.

We can probably identify which one it is (and which ECU pin) from the wiring diagrams on here

We can work together to fix this, please don't scrap her - she's a lovely example, especially now she's sporting a top notch AR35, and is all cambelted, etc!

[Migalot]

Where abouts in the grand scheme of things are you?

NW London. Mill Hill.

[Migalot]

Re the small vacc pipe, I remember noticing this during the cambelt change, but because it was so mangled and brittle I think we planned to sort it another time. If I forgot that then my apologies.

The threshold codes can genuinely be ignored. They do no harm and don't alter the running at all - they are a feature, not a fault!

The lambda related fault, was never going to be with the ECU. The ECU's are ultra reliable.

I still suspect a break in continuity in the loom. If the ECU is ok, and the sensor is OK, there isn't much left. The heater open circuit code is fairly cut and dry. Usually it's a failed lambda, and then after that, an issue with the heater wire.

We can probably identify which one it is (and which ECU pin) from the wiring diagrams on here

We can work together to fix this, please don't scrap her - she's a lovely example, especially now she's sporting a top notch AR35, and is all cambelted, etc!

As always, I am happy to pay you to take a look James. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Pinched wire during the box swap

[Migalot]

Just thinking about the wiring colours for the Lambda sensor.

Apparently there are two type of sensor, Zirconia and Titania/ Looking at this chart, it seems to me that the Omega has Titania, so the heater wires will be red (+) and white (-). Am I right or wrong? (PS. It doesn't list the Omega V6, so don't bother with the drop=down menu).

http://www.ecolambda.co.uk/main/mcolours.htm

[dave the builder]

4 wire sensors on many Vauxhalls tend to have 2 white wires on the sensor for the heater
for the purpose of finding a broken wire in the loom(sensor to ECU)  ,the wiring colours will be different anyway

[Doctor Gollum]

4 wire sensors on many Vauxhalls tend to have 2 white wires on the sensor for the heater
for the purpose of finding a broken wire in the loom(sensor to ECU)  ,the wiring colours will be different anyway

That's a visual illusion

[Doctor Gollum]

The following is the wiring detail for all four sensors.

32 B1S2
Pin 1 Grey.
Pin 2 Green X85/50.
Pin 3 BrownBlack X85/60.
Pin 4 Blue X85/28.

36 B2S2
Pin 1 Grey.
Pin 2 Green X85/18.
Pin 3 BrownBlack X85/22.
Pin 4 Blue X85/44.

79 B1S1
Pin 1 Grey.
Pin 2 Green X85/34.
Pin 3 BrownBlack X85/55.
Pin 4 Blue X85/23.

91 B2S1
Pin 1 Grey.
Pin 2 Green X85/2.
Pin 3 BrownBlack X85/7.
Pin 4 Blue X85/39.

Pin 1 Grey is common to all four O2 sensors, the crank/cam /throttle position sensors, and is fed from FV3, through relay K114 and the 4mm RedBlue wire that runs through X3 and into the engine loom.

The ECU plugs are dismantle able for rewiring purposes.

[Migalot]

Cheers, Doc. 

So grey and red/blue are for the lambda heaters??

[Doctor Gollum]

They are the same wire in effect. Grey at the sensors, RedBlue at the business end. The sensors are fed by a common 12v source.

The Green is the return to the ECU.

BrownBlack and Blue are the actual sensors.

[Migalot]

They are the same wire in effect. Grey at the sensors, RedBlue at the business end. The sensors are fed by a common 12v source.

The Green is the return to the ECU.

BrownBlack and Blue are the actual sensors.