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[robson]

Dont forget i have  a good engine in my car  if you soulld need it. Ron

[Dave G]

Hi, back from hols so a quick update.

Everything back together, checked all connectors, pipes, hoses and so on, refilled coolant, then tried a test turnover with no fuel. No nasty loud metallic noises but obviously no start.
Replaced fuel pump fuse and after waiting for everything to get primed, tried a start.
Fired first time and ran but really lumpy.
Turned off, checked everything again, reseated connections etc., and tried again. This time no firing just churning over. Sounds like it wants to fire every now and then but no joy. Exhaust smelled of fuel so must be getting fuel.

I’ve had error codes 1110, 1111 and 1120, but that’s most likely due to testing engine turnover with no bagpipes, plenum, or throttle bodies etc.

Just before posting this I tried one more time and persisted on the starter. Eventually fired up again, very lumpy and ticky-ticky but kept turning and accepted a gentle increase in revs to about 1500.

I’m hoping I’ve missed something along the way, but…

I have a sound recording of the engine but no idea how to post it!!

[cam.in.head]

are you 100 % sure everything is plugged in correctly and where it should be
and
what did the relative compression sound like when you first spun it on the starter .was it completely even or did it sound to have any low compression cylinders .( a quickening of starter speed )

[Dave G]

I will check everything again in the morning about the connections. Battery is on permanent charge.

Well, no it did sound a bit uneven on the starter when I first tried it

Again, I’ll check first thing and (if I may) PM you the sound…

[cam.in.head]

that may be showing the issue then . its called a relative compression test and whilst programs exist and tuning machines to show it resonably accurate (some code readers will show it as a starter current draw )
a starter spin should sound nice and even with a slowing of the starter by a certain amount as each cylinder has compression . so a cylinder with lower compression (for any reason) will sound faster . i think you know what i mean .

[Dave G]

Yeah I know what you mean.

Checked everything again - when I start up there's quite a low thumpy noise and a ticky-ticky noise. I still reckon there's contact happening somewhere - maybe if valves were bent, they wouldn't seat properly and make a click noise. And let gases past - sure I could smell exhaust under the bonnet...

As I see (hear) it, there's at least valve damage, possibly more. My choices seem to be a) have the engine rebuilt/replaced, b) bite the bullet and sell the car as is, which could well be scrap value. There's no way I could take on cylinder head work and so on - arthritis in my hands will see to that!

I'm very grateful for offers of help - James, Alan and of course TheBoy, but surely this is more substantial than 'a bit of weekend work' ?

I have to decide what to do now - been without transport for a month and it's starting to become a problem. I need to cost out my options this weekend. Perhaps at 23 years old and 67k miles done I should call it a day! Apart from this issue and a small NSF wing dent there's nothing else wrong with it.

Incidentally, does anyone know what a rebuild would cost?

Thanks for reading another of my rants...

[TheBoy]

I would say before writing off the valves, get a cheap compression tester (one suitable for deep 16v heads) and see what that says.  I'd send you mine, but it's not been seen since "the garage incident"

Dead easy to use - remove plugs, screw tester into plug socket, remove fuel pump relay or eco fuse to prevent it fuelling, then spin the starter.


That will prove if you have an issue with compression, and aid with next steps.

[Dave G]

Would you be able to recommend one? So I don’t buy a lemon…
Machine Mart sell a CLARKE CHT693 which looks quite comprehensive.

[cam.in.head]

as mentioned above yes that would be the best step then you can af least find which head (if only one) has issues and someone will have a useable head to swap as a whole . pistons may well be fine ?

[Andy B]

.....
, but it's not been seen since "the garage incident"
 .....

I didn't think we were allowed to mention that! 

[Dave G]

I think there’s something going on here that I don’t understand!!
(Perhaps it’s best if I don’t?)

Anyway, the Clarke CHT693…
Any good for what I need…??

[TheBoy]

Would you be able to recommend one? So I don’t buy a lemon…
Machine Mart sell a CLARKE CHT693 which looks quite comprehensive.

Not sure, the plug sits quite deep in the head on the Omega (and most 4 valves per cylinder engines), so not sure how you can get it tight enough to seal for the test.

Hoping somebody can recommend one that works on an Omega.

[YZ250]

Would you be able to recommend one? So I don’t buy a lemon…
Machine Mart sell a CLARKE CHT693 which looks quite comprehensive.

Not sure, the plug sits quite deep in the head on the Omega (and most 4 valves per cylinder engines), so not sure how you can get it tight enough to seal for the test.

Hoping somebody can recommend one that works on an Omega.

If the plug well is clean, very often hand tight will do, as it will be the same method for each cylinder. Most of the testers appear to be very similar, although the Sealey kit does have a hex on all adapters, whereas the Clarke/Amtech type have a knurled adapter. Not particularly relevant unless the adapter gets stuck in the spark plug thread and the flexi unscrews from it.   
I believe Albs has a compression tester so maybe he can confirm fitment. 
So, as said, all spark plugs out, fuel relay out and WOT. Omega V6 thread is M14x1.25 from memory.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

You have a better memory than me. I forgot I had one until I read your post.
I think I bought it to use on my project estate about 12 years ago and havent used it since.
At work tonight, but will try and find it tomorrow and provide some details.

[Dave G]

Compression Test results. Not good reading I think…

1 -   9.5 bar
3 -    9 bar (4.5 on subsequent tests - wait a while then it’s back to 9)
5 -    9.5 bar

2 -   9.5 bar
4 -   9.5 bar
6 -   0 bar (repeated tests several times still zero). Engine spins freely with tester in this plug - all others at least ‘churn’ with some compression.

Even the 9.5s are a bit low aren’t they?
Cyl 6, put my thumb over the tester pipe and there was no noticeable pressure.