No, seriously, I've never removed the starter motor to do this job and I've never locked the flywheel to time it. There is, in my experience, a small blanking plate under the bellhousing, which allows access to the flywheel, so it's possible to get something onto the teeth to stop it moving, if the crankshaft pulley proves hard to get off.
Engine will be at 90 degrees before TDC for the head to be removed. That way no valves will contact, upon re-fitting. (Head is removed with cams in-situ). This way, the engine shouldn't need to be turned with the head off - in line with procedure.
Head needs to be lifted off extremely carefully on these engines (wet liners)
The newest K series engine I did was an R Reg, and I've done an N reg 414, and loads of earlier 214 16v K series heads, but Jaime's engine looks exactly the same as the R reg. I don't see it being a problem, the only thing I'm unfamilar with is the coil pack on Jaimes.
When sprockets lined up, the cams/crank can be set to the correct position, cams locked, and timing belt fitted. It will be then turned over by hand to ensure the marks all line up - if they do, it's all good - no need to lock flywheel (in my experience).
The plastic inlet manifold bolts/nuts on these are pretty easy to remove, so I usually drop the manifold back away from the head, saving time messing with a fair few fiddly bits.
If memory serves, the down-pipe is then dropped off the manifold, and the manifold comes off with the head. It CAN also be removed with the head in the car. This part can be a bit fiddly, but not too troublesome.
Water pump is held on by 8 8mm bolts, with a rubber O-ring. Changing this, because A they are prone to leaking (I've seen many of these leak).. and also obviously because the timing belt runs over it's pulley, so it's good practice to change it when we do the belt.
The timing belt tensioner is held on by an allen key (maybe torx on this model) bolt, and there is a small 8mm bolt which holds it in position for setting the tension. If I remember right, it's pretty much self tensioning by means of a spring on the tensioner, but I always double check it. I had an experience where the "self tension" clearly wasn't sufficient on one because the belt was wobbling (when cold), so I just took up slightly more play on the tensioner, which sorted it.
Rocker cover is held on with a million bolts, and rarely leak apart from the back right corner.
Hopefully we'll get this all done if we have a good day at it. If there are no complications, then I'm confident we will. Unfortunately I've had stuff going on at home and come this morning I'd not been to bed for 48 hours, so probably wasn't in the best frame of mind to tackle a head gasket
I'm doing my best to get someone to work my Saturday, but unfortunately I'm down to be working nights over the weekend
If the worst happens though, I'm available Monday after lunch, and Tuesday and Wednesday all day.
The getting the new cambelt on can be a lenghty (but easy) job, as it involves jacking up the engine and removing the mounting. If it looks like we're going to be mega pushed for time, and the car is needed for the weekend, then it would be an option, to change the Head gasket to get it mobile, and postpone the belt change until one day next week, or the following Sunday, when I'm free all day. Totally understand it's due - but that may be an option to consider if time looks like a problem. We could also do the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals whist at the belt.
They're usually punctured with a small hole either side, a couple of self tappers inserted, and pulled out with pliers
My sincere apologies for the delay today, unfortunately it was out of my hands, these things happen when you have families
Jaime, I'll be with you in the morning mate, and we'll crack on and talk about it in more detail then
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Topic: Rover HG - is it HG? (Read 20675 times)