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[handy]

Hi everyone,
 
Complete novice on most DIY jobs, and hoping there are a few builders or frame fitters on here
 
 
Ive just moved into a property that has a brick shed without a door,   Ive got a door that fits perfect for the height but about inch short on the width,   anyways its going in there :-)
 
My question is what can i use to fix the frame into the brickwork (facebrick)    ive been reading about the frame fixing screws with the hex head,   do i need to predrill a hole into the brick?   the ones in screwfix are 7.5mmx120mm
so do i need to predrill the hole at 7mm?   Also i will be fitting the hinge side flush againt the brickwork so the 1 inch gap then will be at the door handle end and was going to fill with expanding foam?  and after it sets was going to use the same screws
 
Am i on the right path ??
 
Cheers

[RobG]

Hi everyone,
 
Complete novice on most DIY jobs, and hoping there are a few builders or frame fitters on here
 
 
Ive just moved into a property that has a brick shed without a door,   Ive got a door that fits perfect for the height but about inch short on the width,   anyways its going in there :-)
 
My question is what can i use to fix the frame into the brickwork (facebrick)    ive been reading about the frame fixing screws with the hex head,   do i need to predrill a hole into the brick?   the ones in screwfix are 7.5mmx120mm
so do i need to predrill the hole at 7mm?   Also i will be fitting the hinge side flush againt the brickwork so the 1 inch gap then will be at the door handle end and was going to fill with expanding foam?  and after it sets was going to use the same screws
 
Am i on the right path ??
 
Cheers

As a window fitter you will need a 6.5mm drill bit for the 7.5 torx fixing. As the door is only app. 27mm narrower than opening, pack each side with wedges, fix frame, narrow bead of expanding foam if desired, once foam has cured gun around frame with silicone. Whereabouts are you

[Plomien]

I would put a piece of wood along one side to fill the 1 inch gap and the use raw plugs and screws into the brick work.
the raw plug used should match the drill bit width. so an 8mm raw plug uses an 8mm drill bit then screw in from there 
I am not a builder in any form but am not too bad at a bit of DIY

[RobG]

I would put a piece of wood along one side to fill the 1 inch gap and the use raw plugs and screws into the brick work.
the raw plug used should match the drill bit width. so an 8mm raw plug uses an 8mm drill bit then screw in from there 
I am not a builder in any form but am not too bad at a bit of DIY

Nope, timber, unless pressure treated is a complete waste of time. Nope again, you don`t fit PVCu frames with plugs & screws, and you don`t fix using the so called "UPVC sleeved screws. You use "torx" fixings and as said, drill bit is 1mm less diameter than the actual fixing. Been fitting windows, doors & conservatories long enough

[Ken T]

I used a rawlplug type thing specially for fitting UPVC windows.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/window-anchor-8-x-100mm-pack-of-10/16018

basically drill a hole straight thro the frame and into the brick, put in the fixing, a light hammer in, a last turn on the screw to tighten and jobs a good 'un. A quick seal with sealant helps if the brickwork is uneven and keeps it water tight. The idea of using wood to pack out is good, give it a good coat of paint first. Pressure treated is a good idea, lots of timber merchants have it.

Its so easy to do, makes you wonder why they charge so much to fit windows 

Ken

[handy]

cheers guys,   looks like its the torx screws all the way

[RobG]

I used a rawlplug type thing specially for fitting UPVC windows.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/window-anchor-8-x-100mm-pack-of-10/16018

basically drill a hole straight thro the frame and into the brick, put in the fixing, a light hammer in, a last turn on the screw to tighten and jobs a good 'un. A quick seal with sealant helps if the brickwork is uneven and keeps it water tight. The idea of using wood to pack out is good, give it a good coat of paint first. Pressure treated is a good idea, lots of timber merchants have it.

Its so easy to do, makes you wonder why they charge so much to fit windows 

Ken

Vast majority of "proper" window fitters won`t touch those with a barge pole

[Big_Al]

As Rob G says,  Torx fixings  into 1mm undersize holes. Make sure you wedge at or very close to  the actual fixing points. Also very important  get it nice & square & plumb !

Once fixed , expanding foam around gap between  frame & masonry. Let dry , best overnight, trim off excess with stanley knife or similar.

Finish with a nice 20mm ish flat D section glued on with upvc superglue & accelerator  to cover foam filling, silicon seal  around outside of frame  - Job done !

Lots of brownie points from SWMBO to be collected 

[handy]

will a 6mm drill bit be ok for the 7.5mm fixings or has it got to be the 6.5mm  ,   Got some 6mm sds bits in the shed so rather than buy another

[RobG]

will a 6mm drill bit be ok for the 7.5mm fixings or has it got to be the 6.5mm  ,   Got some 6mm sds bits in the shed so rather than buy another

7.5mm torx will drive through a 6mm hole with a decent drill. May have to switch to reverse once or twice

[Big_Al]

will a 6mm drill bit be ok for the 7.5mm fixings or has it got to be the 6.5mm  ,   Got some 6mm sds bits in the shed so rather than buy another

Ummm ! :-/ :-/  sure the ones i use are 11mm fixings & a 10mm hole. :-/ :-/

Rob  G will advise in a mo I'm sure

[RobG]

will a 6mm drill bit be ok for the 7.5mm fixings or has it got to be the 6.5mm  ,   Got some 6mm sds bits in the shed so rather than buy another

Ummm ! :-/ :-/  sure the ones i use are 11mm fixings & a 10mm hole. :-/ :-/

Rob  G will advise in a mo I'm sure

Standard is 7.5mm torx & 6.5mm bit

[handy]

was going to buy these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/frame-fixing-7-5-x-122mm-pack-of-100/81227

[RobG]

As Rob G says,  Torx fixings  into 1mm undersize holes. Make sure you wedge at or very close to  the actual fixing points. Also very important  get it nice & square & plumb !

Once fixed , expanding foam around gap between  frame & masonry. Let dry , best overnight, trim off excess with stanley knife or similar.

Finish with a nice 20mm ish flat D section glued on with upvc superglue & accelerator  to cover foam filling, silicon seal  around outside of frame  - Job done !

Lots of brownie points from SWMBO to be collected 

Silicone.............then if it needs to be removed, seemples.
Plastic to plastic..........silicone. Plastic to plaster...........caulk

[Big_Al]

I like a bit of Heavy Duty  Rob 

And instant stick with the old superglue