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[Lazydocker]

Any news Lazydocker?

Unfortunately the ECU didn't arrive today... Must have been sent 2nd Class

Never mind... It'll only take a couple of minutes to plug it in and see if everything lights up... If not I'll be tracing all the wiring tomorrow/Saturday as I'm not used to seeing the Petrol Level drop and it's quite upsetting to have used £40 worth of Petrol in the last few days when I know that's more than I pay for nearly twice that mileage normally

[Lazydocker]

Right... An Update!

The ECU arrived this morning, plugged it in and there was no difference Glad I didn't do the full swap and only plugged it in

But... I found a fuse which isn't on the schematic I was looking at. Having looked deeper into the manual there's a second schematic which does show a fuse in the switched live wire, but it's not shown on the main schematic I was working from. It looked OK but tested as blown... I have temporarily replaced it with a 10A fuse (it's only 1A!) to test and all seems fine again Just got to get hold of a 1A Blade fuse now Unfortunately it's right down near the ECU connector but IIRCC I did position it so that I can just remove the blanking plate by the fog light and get to it without climbing underneath

[Kevin Wood]

Ahh! I assumed you'd checked both fuses.

It's odd that they fitted it to the ECU end of the wire, I agree.

It's also odd that it blew, because that's only a control input. I think everything is powered from the 20A permanent live.

Oh, well, all's well that ends well.

Was your replacement ECU a Stag 300 or a stag 300+ by the way? They seem to have replaced the 300 with a new one that has a 3D map rather than the 2D map of the old one. Might give a bit more flexibility in setting-up and provide a route to tuning out the flat spot?

There's also a Stag300 premium for those with OBDII cars. It monitors the fuel trims via OBDII and self-maps. 8-)

Might be something to talk to Teilo about. Mine is a lot better now that I've changed the plugs actually, not that the old plugs looked particularly knackered.

Kevin

[Ken T]

Good news. 

How does the blown fuse look ?. Just blown or a big hole ?. I recon you can tell what  sort of fault there was by the state of the fuse. If the wire's just hanging there, its probably old age, if its totally dissapeared with metal blobs, or even glass blackened, thats indicative of a serious short somewhere.

Ken

[Kevin Wood]

Good news. 

How does the blown fuse look ?. Just blown or a big hole ?. I recon you can tell what  sort of fault there was by the state of the fuse. If the wire's just hanging there, its probably old age, if its totally dissapeared with metal blobs, or even glass blackened, thats indicative of a serious short somewhere.

Ken

Agreed. And since that input is just a control input (high impedance) that tells the ecu to power up, if the fuse has gone pop in a big way it might point to a short in the wiring (although it's only a couple of inches from the ECU connector).

I suppose the other option is that there is bound to be some protection on that ECU input, so if there has been a big spike on the ignition switched supply (back EMF from an ignition coil as the engine was stopped, for example) it might have driven enough current into the clamping diodes on the ECU input to have taken it out.

Third option is that since it's right by the ECU (in the front wing IIRC) some salt water got inside it in the recent weather and it's corroded the fuse.

Fourth option comes under the "5h1t happens" category, I guess.

Kevin

[Lazydocker]

Ahh! I assumed you'd checked both fuses.

It's odd that they fitted it to the ECU end of the wire, I agree.

It's also odd that it blew, because that's only a control input. I think everything is powered from the 20A permanent live.

Oh, well, all's well that ends well.

Was your replacement ECU a Stag 300 or a stag 300+ by the way? They seem to have replaced the 300 with a new one that has a 3D map rather than the 2D map of the old one. Might give a bit more flexibility in setting-up and provide a route to tuning out the flat spot?

There's also a Stag300 premium for those with OBDII cars. It monitors the fuel trims via OBDII and self-maps. 8-)

Might be something to talk to Teilo about. Mine is a lot better now that I've changed the plugs actually, not that the old plugs looked particularly knackered.

Kevin

Forgot all about the second fuse It was only when I was plugging the old ECU back in I spotted the holder as it's quite high up in the void there Having seen it I remember deliberately placing it where it was so I could get to it by removing the plate by the fog light 

Anyway... Just got to go and get a 1A fuse, although I'm waiting for a call from the technical department to confirm it can't be higher rated.

As for the replacement... It wasn't a Brand New ECU (I reckon it was one of their demo items) but a direct swap for the one I already have

I'd noticed the new ECUs on the website so I'll ask him about that when he gives me the quote I'm waiting for... I've set him the challenge of getting the largest possible tank in the wheel well (possibly raising the boot floor by about an inch *) so I'm expecting a bit of a delay

* I reckon I could get away with buying some 1" MDF/Ply and cutting it to fit the entire boot floor (minus the wheel well) and re-fit the carpet on top of it to keep an original look :-/

[Lazydocker]

Good news. 

How does the blown fuse look ?. Just blown or a big hole ?. I recon you can tell what  sort of fault there was by the state of the fuse. If the wire's just hanging there, its probably old age, if its totally dissapeared with metal blobs, or even glass blackened, thats indicative of a serious short somewhere.

Ken

Agreed. And since that input is just a control input (high impedance) that tells the ecu to power up, if the fuse has gone pop in a big way it might point to a short in the wiring (although it's only a couple of inches from the ECU connector).

I suppose the other option is that there is bound to be some protection on that ECU input, so if there has been a big spike on the ignition switched supply (back EMF from an ignition coil as the engine was stopped, for example) it might have driven enough current into the clamping diodes on the ECU input to have taken it out.

Third option is that since it's right by the ECU (in the front wing IIRC) some salt water got inside it in the recent weather and it's corroded the fuse.

Fourth option comes under the "5h1t happens" category, I guess.

Kevin

I'm plumping for option 3 or 4... No evidence of it "Blowing" whatsoever

That said, IIRCC when it packed up I switched off with heated screen and seat switched on and so the seat will still have been on when I started it up again :-/ :-/

[Entwood]

Good news. 

How does the blown fuse look ?. Just blown or a big hole ?. I recon you can tell what  sort of fault there was by the state of the fuse. If the wire's just hanging there, its probably old age, if its totally dissapeared with metal blobs, or even glass blackened, thats indicative of a serious short somewhere.

Ken

Agreed. And since that input is just a control input (high impedance) that tells the ecu to power up, if the fuse has gone pop in a big way it might point to a short in the wiring (although it's only a couple of inches from the ECU connector).

I suppose the other option is that there is bound to be some protection on that ECU input, so if there has been a big spike on the ignition switched supply (back EMF from an ignition coil as the engine was stopped, for example) it might have driven enough current into the clamping diodes on the ECU input to have taken it out.

Third option is that since it's right by the ECU (in the front wing IIRC) some salt water got inside it in the recent weather and it's corroded the fuse.

Fourth option comes under the "5h1t happens" category, I guess.

Kevin

In the 38 years I did in the aviation world, with the responsibility for looking after all the aircraft systems in flight, it was accepted that fuses age, are not made well, or suffer from vibration fatigue.

Whenever a fuse blew, standard procedure was to replace with one of the same size and repower. If the fuse blew again .. circuit problem .. investigation required before replacing fuse again. If it remained working... remind oneself to refill the "spare fuses" box and continue ...

[Kevin Wood]

* I reckon I could get away with buying some 1" MDF/Ply and cutting it to fit the entire boot floor (minus the wheel well) and re-fit the carpet on top of it to keep an original look :-/

Sounds like a plan.

I could do with getting in touch with him too. I suspect my car's due a vapour filter. This one's done <mumble>25000<mumble> miles. 

Kevin

[Lazydocker]

* I reckon I could get away with buying some 1" MDF/Ply and cutting it to fit the entire boot floor (minus the wheel well) and re-fit the carpet on top of it to keep an original look :-/

Sounds like a plan.

I could do with getting in touch with him too. I suspect my car's due a vapour filter. This one's done <mumble>25000<mumble> miles. 

Kevin

Send him an email... He's in Poland again from today for about 5 days... Or just ring the office on, errm... I'll have to find the number and PM you with it, and order one... They're about £20 delivered IIRCC

Mine did 25k when I changed it and TBH there was no noticeable difference in weight or flow... He did say to me before that although there is a recommended change interval most people don't bother until it starts playing up

[Kevin Wood]

If you could PM me his number and EMail address that would be good.  I still need to ask him about doing an inspection too.

Kevin

[Lazydocker]

If you could PM me his number and EMail address that would be good.  I still need to ask him about doing an inspection too.

Kevin

He was supposed to be chasing up the LPGA about full certification... I want to get mine done too before I sell it.

He can certainly do a safety certificate, which is adequate for insurance purposes

[Kevin Wood]

I'm plumping for option 3 or 4... No evidence of it "Blowing" whatsoever

That said, IIRCC when it packed up I switched off with heated screen and seat switched on and so the seat will still have been on when I started it up again :-/ :-/

Both purely resistive loads, so I can't see a problem there. 5h1t happens it is then. 

I'm guessing a 1A blade fuse has a very fine filament and due to the nature of these fuses it's not well protected from contamination or vibration / flexing, etc.

Kevin

[Lazydocker]

I'm plumping for option 3 or 4... No evidence of it "Blowing" whatsoever

That said, IIRCC when it packed up I switched off with heated screen and seat switched on and so the seat will still have been on when I started it up again :-/ :-/

Both purely resistive loads, so I can't see a problem there. 5h1t happens it is then. 

I'm guessing a 1A blade fuse has a very fine filament and due to the nature of these fuses it's not well protected from contamination or vibration / flexing, etc.

Kevin

About the thickness of a hair It was broken off on the leg

Smallest fuse I could get from my factors was a 3A... But they didn't charge me for it

[Kevin Wood]

About the thickness of a hair It was broken off on the leg

Smallest fuse I could get from my factors was a 3A... But they didn't charge me for it

That'll be fine. It's primarily to protect the wire, after all.

Kevin