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Author Topic: oh crap  (Read 7849 times)

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tunnie

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oh crap
« on: 03 January 2007, 17:23:00 »

I just sheered off a bolt  :o

Took the cable tray off, and the nut underneath, cambelt cover came loose and i could see inside.

I missed the tinny 6mm torx nut for the cam sensor, and started undoing the large silver nut which i thought was for the cam sensor   :o :o :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[

My heart sunk when it sheared off, only then did i spot the tiny nut for the cam sensor  :-[ :-[ :-[

So now i have sheared off the main nut in the middle that holds the cambelt cover on  :-[ - And the cable tray

Sh!t is all i can say  >:(

Piccys:









And also the replace cam sensor is the right type, but just feels 'odd' when i try and slot it in... hard to describe but i find myself pushing it in hard and just does not feel right  :-/

Question is, without that cental nut and just the outer screws holding the cam cover, can i get away with it?

Feel like crap now  :-[
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Taxi_Driver

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #1 on: 03 January 2007, 17:32:33 »

OOpppssss  :(

Im sure experts will be able to advise better than me Tunnie on that mishap......but dont worry sure there will be an easy fix  ;)

As far as cam sensor goes you might need to give it a jiggle a bit as it goes in.....but should slot in easily when it lined up  :y

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tunnie

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #2 on: 03 January 2007, 17:32:52 »

i am just wondering with the outer nuts holding the cambelt cover, and the tray clipped on but loose at the bottom. Can i get away with this.

I think its going to be very hard to get that sheered part out, I don't even know if thats a propper nut and its suposed to come out!  :-[
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x25xe

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #3 on: 03 January 2007, 17:42:42 »

Sorry to hear about this mate.  What a bummer!

Not sure if this is a bolt that is supposed to retain the timing belt cover or not.  From your pics, it looks like it is to be honest.  You could drill out the stud, you wil need to accurately centre punch the stud that is in the block and then, using a sharp (new) HSS drill bit, carefully drill it out.  From your pics, I would suggest a 3mm bit should do.

Having done this, you can then "wiggle" the threaded part out as the metal will be thin enough to bend..............

However, I stress that you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing this it is VERY EASY to drill off centre and then you are in more trouble.

I used this to get effect on a water pump bolt that sheared when tightning to the correct torque on my Transit Van.

You could of course get a stud extractor tool.  I am sure that others will have more (and probably better) advice than me.

Is there a way that you could cable tie the cable tray at the bottom until you have a more permanent way of fixing it?  A bit of a bodge I know, but it would be better than leaving it loose.

Good Luck
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Taxi_Driver

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #4 on: 03 January 2007, 17:44:59 »

Quote
I don't even know if thats a propper nut and its suposed to come out!  :-[

I dont know either mate.....but if it was screwed in.....it was probably a left handed thread....coz if youve got another screw in its top end it could undo instead of the screw (if you see what i mean)...hence why you sheared it trying to undo it anticlockwise....that would sense to me.....but i am guessing.... :-/
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mar892ree

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #5 on: 03 January 2007, 17:50:56 »

Tunnie the part you hold in your hand is listed as a screw NOT a nut ! part No :- 90499201, theres another in there bolting rear cover on to oil pump ! And yes it is broken !

Unless you wanna take off rear cover to gain access to broken screw, and that means taking off cam belt ( no need to remove cam gears ) leave it alone ! Or you may have just enough of the screw projecting to get a stud removal tool / socket on it ! Halfords sell them as a kit !

What puzzles me is parts book is saying / mentioning that there is also 3 other bolts/screws that hold down cam belt back plate to engine ! maybe different model as in y22xe and z22 !!!!

I personally wouldnt really worry about the rear cover unless its flapping about like a bit of wet paper !
I CAN NOT come in to contact with the timing belt, but if its very loose / flapping about it MAY rub on the cam gears/pulleys !

As TD mentioned, you might have to wiggle cam sensor in a bit, but it should go in ! Careful how you tighten up cam sensor BOLT ( not nut ) as its an M6x 12 and wont take crap loads of tightening !

Others on here should also be able to point you in the right direction, but if it was me, i wouldnt over worry about it mate !
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Re: oh crap
« Reply #6 on: 03 January 2007, 17:51:22 »

I see what you mean, not a good day :(
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mar892ree

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #7 on: 03 January 2007, 17:58:18 »

Quote
Sorry to hear about this mate.  What a bummer!

Not sure if this is a bolt that is supposed to retain the timing belt cover or not.  From your pics, it looks like it is to be honest.  You could drill out the stud, you wil need to accurately centre punch the stud that is in the block and then, using a sharp (new) HSS drill bit, carefully drill it out.  From your pics, I would suggest a 3mm bit should do.

Having done this, you can then "wiggle" the threaded part out as the metal will be thin enough to bend..............

However, I stress that you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing this it is VERY EASY to drill off centre and then you are in more trouble.

I used this to get effect on a water pump bolt that sheared when tightning to the correct torque on my Transit Van.

You could of course get a stud extractor tool.  I am sure that others will have more (and probably better) advice than me.

Is there a way that you could cable tie the cable tray at the bottom until you have a more permanent way of fixing it?  A bit of a bodge I know, but it would be better than leaving it loose.

Good Luck


Tunnie if you are brave enough to attack with a drill, BE EXTRA careful, that screw isnt in to the block, its in to the alloy head !
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x25xe

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #8 on: 03 January 2007, 18:05:28 »

Quote
Quote
Sorry to hear about this mate.  What a bummer!

Not sure if this is a bolt that is supposed to retain the timing belt cover or not.  From your pics, it looks like it is to be honest.  You could drill out the stud, you wil need to accurately centre punch the stud that is in the block and then, using a sharp (new) HSS drill bit, carefully drill it out.  From your pics, I would suggest a 3mm bit should do.

Having done this, you can then "wiggle" the threaded part out as the metal will be thin enough to bend..............

However, I stress that you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing this it is VERY EASY to drill off centre and then you are in more trouble.

I used this to get effect on a water pump bolt that sheared when tightning to the correct torque on my Transit Van.

You could of course get a stud extractor tool.  I am sure that others will have more (and probably better) advice than me.

Is there a way that you could cable tie the cable tray at the bottom until you have a more permanent way of fixing it?  A bit of a bodge I know, but it would be better than leaving it loose.

Good Luck


Tunnie if you are brave enough to attack with a drill, BE EXTRA careful, that screw isnt in to the block, its in to the alloy head !


In that case - DO NOT use this method.  From what others have said, it will be OK left alone.
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Taxi_Driver

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #9 on: 03 January 2007, 18:09:55 »

Quote
Quote
Quote
Sorry to hear about this mate.  What a bummer!

Not sure if this is a bolt that is supposed to retain the timing belt cover or not.  From your pics, it looks like it is to be honest.  You could drill out the stud, you wil need to accurately centre punch the stud that is in the block and then, using a sharp (new) HSS drill bit, carefully drill it out.  From your pics, I would suggest a 3mm bit should do.

Having done this, you can then "wiggle" the threaded part out as the metal will be thin enough to bend..............

However, I stress that you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing this it is VERY EASY to drill off centre and then you are in more trouble.

I used this to get effect on a water pump bolt that sheared when tightning to the correct torque on my Transit Van.

You could of course get a stud extractor tool.  I am sure that others will have more (and probably better) advice than me.

Is there a way that you could cable tie the cable tray at the bottom until you have a more permanent way of fixing it?  A bit of a bodge I know, but it would be better than leaving it loose.

Good Luck


Tunnie if you are brave enough to attack with a drill, BE EXTRA careful, that screw isnt in to the block, its in to the alloy head !


In that case - DO NOT use this method.  From what others have said, it will be OK left alone.

Funny you should say that....i was just thinking that....Tunnie and a drill....NOOOOO  ::)
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mar892ree

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #10 on: 03 January 2007, 18:16:29 »

Hehehehhehehe hahahahahahha may be not then !!

Tunnie ----- NO DRILLS OK ! ::)

I know your situation isnt funny, we have all been there and worn the T shirt at some point !

Have a cup of tea, calm down and things will look better in the morning ! PROMISE YOU  :y

In fact you will be laughing about this in a few days time, put it down to experiance mate, at least your having a go and getting your hands dirty, and NO one can knock you for that.

Maybe if Jamie can have a look for you, you will feel  1000000000000000% better.

Chin up mate BUT NO DRILLS   ;D
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TheBoy

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #11 on: 03 January 2007, 18:35:21 »

Tunnie - part number of sheared bolt...

23  SCREW, REAR TIMING BELT COVER TO CYLINDER HEAD    90499201 6 38 959 1  
23  SCREW, HEX.HD., REAR TIMING BELT COVER TO OIL PUMP    90499201 6 38 959 1  


Hopefully someone can come up with a plan for removal. I'm thinking along lines of wd40 to help release, and cutting slot and unscrew?  Not sure how to cut slot... small chisel?  Hopefully one of the engrs here can suggest??
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Re: oh crap
« Reply #12 on: 03 January 2007, 18:39:32 »

Quote
Hehehehhehehe hahahahahahha may be not then !!

Tunnie ----- NO DRILLS OK ! ::)

I know your situation isnt funny, we have all been there and worn the T shirt at some point !

Have a cup of tea, calm down and things will look better in the morning ! PROMISE YOU  :y

In fact you will be laughing about this in a few days time, put it down to experiance mate, at least your having a go and getting your hands dirty, and NO one can knock you for that.

Maybe if Jamie can have a look for you, you will feel  1000000000000000% better.

Chin up mate BUT NO DRILLS   ;D

Well said..all been there and cocked summat up....altho lager....beer....vodka....also has the same affect  :y Whats the saying?? Ah yes....the bloke that never made a mistake never made anything!

TB needs to visit Tunnies and stick a plaster on Tunnies Omega  :y
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TheBoy

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #13 on: 03 January 2007, 18:39:40 »

Quote
Have a cup of tea, calm down and things will look better in the morning ! PROMISE YOU  :y
Spooky - I just said exactly same thing to Tunnie...   ...never a true-er statement :)
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tunnie

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Re: oh crap
« Reply #14 on: 03 January 2007, 18:40:14 »

Cheers guys, really appreciate it  :y

Feeling a little bit better, TheBoy came around on his way back, HUGE thanks to him gunna start a thread on it.

So to summarise that nut goes though an alloy head to the oil cooler?  :o

Ok no drills!! - Thats prob best anyway i tend to snap the drill bits  :-[

Ok i think its best i replace the bolt, and not bodge job it back together as is.

Many thanks mar892ree for that part number, i'll be onto Vaux dealers in the morning!  :y - I am guessing as TD says its a left hand thread, and that's why i sheared it?

------------------

Ok methods for getting that bugger out:

Hit the front of it with a chisel, to create a groove. Then get a flat head screw driver and twist. See if it comes out...

Can anyone confirm it is a left hand thread? If so I & TB would have been twisting it with some long nosed plyers the wrong way?

------------------

Again many thanks guys for all the comments, if your ever in Brackley or London, pints on me  :y

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