My Meggy wont start

[mick beck]

Parked her up in the garage yesterday tried to start her today. She winds over ok, all the dash lights come on but the eml and battery light stay on. Can anyone please help me  
cry

[JamesV6CDX]

Does it sound like it's trying to fire?

Can you check the fault codes

Non-starting is often crank sensor related

[Admin]

Well we need the codes, but the usual culprit is the crank sensor....

What year is it?

[theolodian]

If the EML stays on while cranking almost certainly crank sensor.  Even if you do get it started don't drive it until you're sure b/c it can flake out on you anywhere.

[Kev]

I'm saying nothing.  

What Laidback says though does sound like sense.

[TheBoy]

Even if you do get it started don't drive it until you're sure b/c it can flake out on you anywhere.

Like 700m from home, just outside Dijon, Central France

[Taxi_Driver]

Even if you do get it started don't drive it until you're sure b/c it can flake out on you anywhere.

Like 700m from home, just outside Dijon, Central France

You need a 2.2   Forgot to try it on Tunnies a few weeks ago  

Have you?  

[mick beck]

Thanks guys, getting her up in the air today to get a better look. There is another sensor hanging down at the side of the oil filter! dunno why?,it's not in use tho. It's been like that since last August.  I aint got a tester for the codes, but i'll see what i can do when i get under her. She's a 2.5 v6 1998 cd and was running beautifully till now. If i dont have any joy i'll try and get a tester for the codes. Will get back to you on progress, Thanks again guys your help is much appreciated.
                                                    Mick

[Marks DTM Calib]

You dont need a tester for the codes.....just short pins 4 and 6 together on the diag socket and the ECU will flash the codes out for you on the ECU light ......search on here for more details...

[Admin]

You dont need a tester for the codes.....just short pins 4 and 6 together on the diag socket and the ECU will flash the codes out for you on the ECU light ......search on here for more details...

In particular a nice little guide here...http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152601768

[sounds2k]

interesting ... it would appear on a 2000 facelift model, although it has a 16-pin connector and you get the codes if you short pins 5 & 6, the codes generated appear to be bosch motronic - they commence with 1 flash, then 2 flashes ... repeated 3 times ... so I assume this test will work on 2.5 and 3.0 engines, pre-facelift and post - the cut-off point would be the changeover to 2.6/3.2's ... ?

[theolodian]

interesting ... it would appear on a 2000 facelift model, although it has a 16-pin connector and you get the codes if you short pins 5 & 6, the codes generated appear to be bosch motronic - they commence with 1 flash, then 2 flashes ... repeated 3 times ... so I assume this test will work on 2.5 and 3.0 engines, pre-facelift and post - the cut-off point would be the changeover to 2.6/3.2's ... ?

That should be the case.  It is the ECU that matters, and that is related more to the engine than the car.

[rpont]

You can get the flash codes from the 2l as well but not the 2.2 or the 2.5TD BMW engine. Only on the petrol engines with an accelerator cable but not on any of the drive by wire ones. I think it's either pins 4 or 5 (both work) to pin 6.

[mick beck]

Good morning gents. I've done the paper clip test and it read * - ** = 12, and *** -* = 31 fiddled with the wires and hey presto! she's running. I will however get a fresh sensor in case it happens again. Thanks for all your help and suggestions, very appreciated  
                                                                                                   Mick  

[TheBoy]

31 is normal for a car thats not started.  It doesn't necessarily mean that the crank sensor is knackered or OK....   ....with a v6 omega, always have a spare crank sensor in boot