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[feeutfo]

dex 3 oil and filter change is on my list of things to do, but i noticed this evening on cold start up and reversing out of my drive that the revs seemed too high as if clutch slipping in reverse. Car has always been different to my 99 cdx when reversing, in as much as cdx would move instantly brake released and would need no gas when cold to get out of the drive.

3.2 when reversing from cold needs gas and clutch seems to engage very slowly, is this a refinement on the the newer model/software? It has the latest software update.
 Is this normal or do i need to get my finger out and change box oil and filter? Thanks in advance Chris.

[feeutfo]

anyone?
 :-?

[Big_Roger]

Hi,
I have had auto Maxi's, Carlton's, Senator's, and Safrane's, but my 3.2 Omega is the only one out of the whole lot that I cannot feel the "bump" when engaging drive, and that doesn't want to leap forward on releasing the handbrake.

It doesn't creep in reverse, only very slowly forward in trafic. I usually need some gas pedal to keep up in a queue. Also, change in revs is usually the only indication I have on gearchange or lock up clutch engagement, it is so smooth.

I wouldn't worry too much, but I would still change the ATF and filter though.

HTH

Roger

[feeutfo]

Thankyou

[JamesV6CDX]

I know someone else who had trouble with an auto in reverse. We ended up changing her gearbox.

Due to a fault with the initla replacement- it was changed more than once!

[Kevin Wood]

I believe reverse is the setting that requires the greatest volume of fluid in the hydraulic system, hence we were advised to use reverse to prime Marie's gearbox after it had been worked on. This makes me think it's likely to be the first to go if the fluid level is low. :-/

I have noticed if my car is driven hard (like up a mountain pass!) reverse can be a little slower to engage. Some ice cream vendor on a hairpin bend in Northern Italy has the bent sign to prove that

As with all autobox wierdness, get the sumps off, check for debris, and then replace the filter and fill with fresh fluid ASAP.

Kevin

[feeutfo]

I believe reverse is the setting that requires the greatest volume of fluid in the hydraulic system, hence we were advised to use reverse to prime Marie's gearbox after it had been worked on. This makes me think it's likely to be the first to go if the fluid level is low. :-/

I have noticed if my car is driven hard (like up a mountain pass!) reverse can be a little slower to engage.[highlight Some ice cream vendor on a hairpin bend in Northern Italy has the bent sign to prove that [/highlight]

As with all autobox wierdness, get the sumps off, check for debris, and then replace the filter and fill with fresh fluid ASAP.

Kevin

Sorry, dont like to laugh at others misfortune but that tickled me.

Thankyou for advise was hoping that would be the case. Booked car on mates ramp,
I was under the impression you had to engage through all gears to get it to suck up its required amount of oil, but sounds like its better to leave in reverse while running and
topping up?
Thanks again.

[Kevin Wood]

The instructions were to fill the main sump to the filler hole, start the engine with the rear axle supported and engage reverse while adding fluid until the wheels are turning happily then go through all gear positions a couple of times before topping up with the engine still running in neutral.

This was starting with a recond (empty) torque converter and dry gearbox though.

If just changing the oil, there'll be oil in the box and TC already so you just need to fill to level hole, start engine, fill to the level hole again, go through each gear position, top up, replace level plug and job done.

Check the old fluid though. It won't be a nice fresh red colour any more but put a little in a glass jar and study it for debris which could indicate friction materials braking up, and also check the smell. It will probably smell oily with the trace of cat's pee that gearbox oil has, but it shouldn't smell burnt.

Also check and clean the magnetic ring in the bottom of the main sump. It will have a fine metal paste stuck to it as a consequence of breaking-in and normal wear (be careful how you clean it as you can get a metal splinter) but shouldn't have any thing more coarse.

Also check for bits of plastic ring in the front sump, as this is a plastic thrust washer which is a common failure.

Kevin

[feeutfo]

 nice one Kevin, thankyou.
  Page saved ready for the big day.

[feeutfo]

feedback, changed atf, just to say reverse is now as normal.
Normal to me being no gas needed to reverse out of
my drive. Gear changes are smoother as is engageing
drive. Car feels novicably smoother in all conditions
as you would expect. Mileage was 70k by the time i
got round to it. So that knocks my previously informed
80k change out the window. 60k as said on here makes
Alot more sense. There was barely any residue on the
magnet no iron filling at all.  Makes me think someone
had already been in there, esp. now i think of it the level
Hole bolt was so tight my mech nearly broke his
spanner undoing it. As was the sump bolt and filter
housing. Sounds like usual vx up to shear and back a
flat muppits. Clearly they did not get the level right
either. Still think the local hoodies would do a betterjob
with their auto experience. Cheaper and more chance
of good job. Cheers
 

[mark.adams]

Mines at 76K and i am noticing my autobox being a little slow to respond sometimes, i am going to do a fluid topup soon...

[feeutfo]

got a couple of bottles left over unopened. will take to wim day 27th, had trouble getting hold of my dexIII. parts tryed to sell me dex II instead, trying to make out III had been superseeded.  

anyone reading this dont get anything else other than dextron III.
but you knew all that

[Jimbob]

got a couple of bottles left over unopened. will take to wim day 27th, had trouble getting hold of my dexIII. parts tryed to sell me dex II instead, trying to make out III had been superseeded.  

anyone reading this dont get anything else other than dextron III.
but you knew all that

you could always change your PAS fluid as you have a load

[feeutfo]

got a couple of bottles left over unopened. will take to wim day 27th, had trouble getting hold of my dexIII. parts tryed to sell me dex II instead, trying to make out III had been superseeded.  

anyone reading this dont get anything else other than dextron III.
but you knew all that

you could always change your PAS fluid as you have a load

o oh... this could get confusing.
as i understand it dextronIII is for autobox, dexII is for pas on some other models, not the omega?
 
your saying i could use the rest of my Dextron III for pas fluid is that correact? As that is what i have left.
 if so, great, i will do ...

and the dextron II has no place on tne omega?

[Jimbob]

iirc
gearbox = dex3
pas = dex2