Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[X30XE]

Hi,

Just bought a 2.0 gls auto on an S plate as a temporary car.  Earlier today the gearbox went into fault mode, and would only run in 3rd gear.  When I got home I parked up and turned the engine off. Now the car wont start up, fault code coming back as 1502 Immobiliser - No signal.  Any common culprits for this, or is it a case of call the scrap man?  

[Entwood]

Check inside the key that the little black square thing has not moved from its alloted place ...   I had that on the old beast and it wouldn't start !!  Seems the transducer chip must be in the "right" place for the reader chip by the keyslot to register it ...

HTH

[ngrainqey]

might be a connector thats come loose or could be that you need to resync the immobiliser

does anybody know why the immobiliser re-arms its self btw after around 15 seconds?
very annoying having to repeatedly blip it each time i get out of the car to play with the inlet then try cranking it again
btw it's with the key in ignition...
somebody will be along shortly i imagine about your immobiliser, might have to buy the ecu and stuff off somebody to sort it out

[X30XE]

Check inside the key that the little black square thing has not moved from its alloted place ...   I had that on the old beast and it wouldn't start !!  Seems the transducer chip must be in the "right" place for the reader chip by the keyslot to register it ...

HTH

I'll have a look, but I think it unlikely that both keys have gone fubar in the same day.  Think it more likely the car end?  :-/

[X30XE]

might be a connector thats come loose or could be that you need to resync the immobiliser

How easy is resyncing the immob?  

somebody will be along shortly i imagine about your immobiliser, might have to buy the ecu and stuff off somebody to sort it out

If it's not just a matter of fixing a dodgy connection it'll be weighed in.  It's not worth the hassle for a ropey 2.0 gls im afraid.  

[ngrainqey]

urm on the infra red keyfobs you need to have the key in the ignition then blip the fob at the black dome and the light should flash (think thats how you resync) and with the rf ones it's easier (there's a how 2 in general maintenance maybe on how to do it-similar to the ir one)

[X30XE]

Thinking about it, would the code not be "1501 - No or Wrong coding" if  the keys weren't sync'd?

[ngrainqey]

sometimes comes up as random faults to do with the immobiliser-dont think it knows what it's doing its self sometimes tbh haha!
if you need then iv got a transponder and stuff off my 2.0 can let you have it for literally next to nothing plus a 3.0 ecu set as they've got mixed up haha!

[MutantCav]

To resynch...key in position 2 and press the door lock/unlock button, when it resynchs should lock/unlock the central locking...pretty much instant...

[X30XE]

Ok, just managed to resync key 2. It now unlocks the CL on the plip, where it didnt before. Neither key is starting the car tho.  Also, noticed the rev counter is dancing about like a nutter while ign on pos 2??   :-?

[X30XE]

From an old post here...

"Re: Bypassing immobiliser
Reply #6 - Sep 24th, 2006, 9:14am
  
If selector switch is knackered (ie it thinks its in a drive gear, then it won't even turn over..."

Given that I suspect the selector switch could be fubarred (due to limp mode activation), is this on the same circuit as the immobiliser?  

  

[unlucky alf]

im not sure if its on the immobiliser circuit but it does sound like the selector switch as you say, might be worth dropping it down for a look & perhaps a clean out, check the white nylon bit isnt cracked as ive seen it on here before where a crack has caused issues,,,good luck

[X30XE]

Ok, il have a look tomorrow. Is the switch accessed from inside or underneath?

[unlucky alf]

underneath, 2 x 10mm bolts & the big nut in the middle which i think is 15 mm, the switch unplugs, if you follow the wires youll find it, should be clipped to the g/box

[X30XE]

underneath, 2 x 10mm bolts & the big nut in the middle which i think is 15 mm, the switch unplugs, if you follow the wires youll find it, should be clipped to the g/box

Yep, 2 x 10mm bolts (one of which conveniently hidden from sight and a right .... to get at, and a 16mm in the middle.

Removed the switch, opened up. There was some evidence of moisture inside so i have mopped it up along with what I pressume is white lithium grease?  Have put the lid back on and located back on gearbox with one bolt in just to test, unfortunately all the lights still come on when in P, 2nd or 1st.  Might try a more thorough inspection/clean of the wiper/tracks in the switch tomorrow, and get some lithium grease as well.  

Could really do with knowing whether the immobiliser issue is related or a seperate fault.  Does anyone know for sure?   :-/

Alternatively does anyone know which wires/tracks to short to get the ecu to acknowledge "park" position?