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Author Topic: turbo position...  (Read 5163 times)

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ngrainqey

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turbo position...
« on: 21 November 2008, 18:46:04 »

hiya, just wondering where people think the best place for a turbo would be in the engine bay on the omega...
on the LC it's behind the headlights.
i'm going to try and do away with the multiram or do quite alot of modifying to it to beable to use it with a turbo or take it out sell it and make something up :P

also i'v thought about just infront of the exhaust manifold next to the coolant transfer pipe along the drivers side of the block!

thanks
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Albatross

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #1 on: 21 November 2008, 20:02:16 »

I wouldn't fit a turbo. The V6 is not a "toppy" engine and it may even reduce your low end performance and change the characteristics of the car completely.

Personally I'd be thinking supercharger as this would complement the engine much better.
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tmx

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #2 on: 21 November 2008, 21:20:01 »

it cannot be done! supercharging can by using a tiny eaton charger 0.5 bar Steinmetz do it


The V6 cant take the compression i have researched this and the v6 will blow up with high boost! also the Engine management cant be reprogramed for Boost injection maps.

without the multirams the V6 runs like a bag of turds ive tried it!!

Thames Valley Police & The Army & Irish Guarda had some special Courtenay turbo omegas made i spoke to courtenay motorsport and they told me they used the C30XE engine a straight 6 petrol so this confirms in my opinon that it would cost to much to turbo a v6!

if you want a turbo miggy why not get a 4 pot and drop a *20LET engine in it  
« Last Edit: 21 November 2008, 21:21:05 by tmx »
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ngrainqey

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #3 on: 21 November 2008, 21:34:12 »

Quote
it cannot be done! supercharging can by using a tiny eaton charger 0.5 bar Steinmetz do it

The V6 cant take the compression i have researched this and the v6 will blow up with high boost! also the Engine management cant be reprogramed for Boost injection maps.

without the multirams the V6 runs like a bag of turds ive tried it!!

Thames Valley Police & The Army & Irish Guarda had some special Courtenay turbo omegas made i spoke to courtenay motorsport and they told me they used the C30XE engine a straight 6 petrol so this confirms in my opinon that it would cost to much to turbo a v6!

if you want a turbo miggy why not get a 4 pot and drop a *20LET engine in it  

it caaaan...if it cant then i'll know about it when my engine goes pop and i take bits off my spare x25 lump.... needs spacer plates to reduce the comp ratio-also can only use it upto 6psi with standard mapping-have to use a piggyback ecu or similar for the fueling.
and ok i wont remove the multiram. has anybody tried using the vectra intake system rather than the omegas plenium?


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tmx

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #4 on: 21 November 2008, 21:40:19 »

the vectra has single throttle body and the miggy has twins! and there are sensors on the throttle body that the vectra doesnt have! also the vectras IAC is different to the omegas and uses a different connector!
the vectras MAF is different to the omegas as that uses a different connector!

it cant be turbo'd especially the 2.5 as it has weak con rods! ring courtenay motorsport they will tell you straight like they told me!
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ngrainqey

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #5 on: 21 November 2008, 22:10:05 »

grrrr!
how much boost is that with though?
low or high?
i'v talked to someone with a turbo'd vectra and he said it ran fine upto 6psi!
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Albatross

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #6 on: 21 November 2008, 22:58:34 »

Quote
...supercharging can by using a tiny Eaton charger 0.5 bar; Steinmetz do it...

What would that gain you on a 3.2 do you reckon?

Any ideas where I might be able to find out more?
« Last Edit: 21 November 2008, 22:59:26 by Albatross »
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cem_devecioglu

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #7 on: 21 November 2008, 23:05:35 »

ngrainqey,

you are entering twilight zone...

lets say if you turbo the miggy successfully, still you will be slower

than a 4 pot turbo astra as Miggy is much more heavy..

And the costs and problems you need to face is more than double..

but if you are insistent,  congrats and good luck mate :y
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cem_devecioglu

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #8 on: 21 November 2008, 23:14:32 »

also I must add you must seriously modify the cooling system.. as the miggy originally runs hot..  

you will also need to take out the oil cooler, install an external one and do some extra pipe work..

I think there are many members who are really experienced in that

subject and can give detailed explanation :-/

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Pawel_Nottingham

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #9 on: 22 November 2008, 04:15:10 »

Hi! I know that doesn't answer your question, but why not fitting camshafts from 3.0? They're sharper and will boost u to arround 190-195hp :) Then you could have one of those magic resonator boxes fitted. Are said to give up to 15hp...sounds dodgy to me, but it's cheap and easy to remove if proves useless ;)
HOWEVER - if u manage to fit a turbo/charger - i'd like to be in the know ;D
« Last Edit: 22 November 2008, 04:54:35 by bingo100 »
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Mr Skrunts

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #10 on: 22 November 2008, 05:25:35 »

Quote
Hi! I know that doesn't answer your question, but why not fitting conrods from 3.0? They're sharper and will boost u to arround 190-195hp :) Then you could have one of those magic resonator boxes fitted. Are said to give up to 15hp...sounds dodgy to me, but it's cheap and easy to remove if proves useless ;)
HOWEVER - if u manage to fit a turbo/charger - i'd like to be in the know ;D

Dont understand how just fitting conrods from a 3.0 gets you 25bhp gain.  Maybe an increase in CC if the stroke is different.  I am hapy to be corrected on this one.

Back to the turbo bit.  If I have missed other threads then I appoligise now.  What/why is the point for fitting a turbo,  track or event use?

Whats your budget, judging by your theory your pockets are deep unless you have access to your own scrap yard.  If its a road car and for every day use then I would be looking for low end power impovments, if a motorway car then midranges power or events then med to high end power gains.

From what I have read in general and Marks_DTM mini series on engine theory  :y :y then it seems the air box and multiram system is near 90+% perfect based on cost effective production costs

Now I was brought up on a diet of mags like car and car conversions reading the Dave Vizard stories and Bill Blydention tuning write ups for rally tuning etc  Cars of today versus the 70/8-s are obviously more refined during simple production runs, technically the basic car of today is far more powerfull and ecconomical than the same sized engine from years cone by.

Comparison.  Rover SD1 3500 versus 2.5/3.0 Omega  

Lets go a different direction.   A coiled up 100 metre electric extention is less efficient than one than unrolled and in a straight line.

A coiled hose pipe pushing water up the is less efficient than a staight pipe with water coming out but dropping over the same coiled height.

Now say a 2.5 Miggy lump was fitted in an XJS of exactly the same weight but all the air intake system could be straighted out with no bends in it and the size of the air intake could be increased to the most effient size.  Consider the internal working from the Blydenstein days of Lightning, balancing and blueprinting all the engine.  Plus the greater space allowed under the bonnet to aid cooling of the engine.

All this would aid a car/engine achieving higher RPM faster and maintaining it, with the better airflow because of space then maybe a cooler engine.  a cooler engine (remember the coiled extention lead - well they get hot - stright ones dont unless overloaded) in theory will be more reliable and I believe maintain more of its power.

Hope you understand the waffling.  like I say, depends on the purpose of the mods, the cash available.  If its ultimate BHP and £no limits then the conversion .mods are simple.  A banks 1200 BHP twin turbo racing motor.


But then with power come problems, handling, brakes etc, so all things are relative.
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albitz

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #11 on: 22 November 2008, 07:07:17 »

It says camshafts in Pawels post and conrods in your post.-bizarre. :-?
« Last Edit: 22 November 2008, 07:08:06 by albitz »
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bighed

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #12 on: 22 November 2008, 07:15:58 »

Quote
Quote
Hi! I know that doesn't answer your question, but why not fitting conrods from 3.0? They're sharper and will boost u to arround 190-195hp :) Then you could have one of those magic resonator boxes fitted. Are said to give up to 15hp...sounds dodgy to me, but it's cheap and easy to remove if proves useless ;)
HOWEVER - if u manage to fit a turbo/charger - i'd like to be in the know ;D


YEAH! What he said  :D ;)
Dont understand how just fitting conrods from a 3.0 gets you 25bhp gain.  Maybe an increase in CC if the stroke is different.  I am hapy to be corrected on this one.

Back to the turbo bit.  If I have missed other threads then I appoligise now.  What/why is the point for fitting a turbo,  track or event use?

Whats your budget, judging by your theory your pockets are deep unless you have access to your own scrap yard.  If its a road car and for every day use then I would be looking for low end power impovments, if a motorway car then midranges power or events then med to high end power gains.

From what I have read in general and Marks_DTM mini series on engine theory  :y :y then it seems the air box and multiram system is near 90+% perfect based on cost effective production costs

Now I was brought up on a diet of mags like car and car conversions reading the Dave Vizard stories and Bill Blydention tuning write ups for rally tuning etc  Cars of today versus the 70/8-s are obviously more refined during simple production runs, technically the basic car of today is far more powerfull and ecconomical than the same sized engine from years cone by.

Comparison.  Rover SD1 3500 versus 2.5/3.0 Omega  

Lets go a different direction.   A coiled up 100 metre electric extention is less efficient than one than unrolled and in a straight line.

A coiled hose pipe pushing water up the is less efficient than a staight pipe with water coming out but dropping over the same coiled height.

Now say a 2.5 Miggy lump was fitted in an XJS of exactly the same weight but all the air intake system could be straighted out with no bends in it and the size of the air intake could be increased to the most effient size.  Consider the internal working from the Blydenstein days of Lightning, balancing and blueprinting all the engine.  Plus the greater space allowed under the bonnet to aid cooling of the engine.

All this would aid a car/engine achieving higher RPM faster and maintaining it, with the better airflow because of space then maybe a cooler engine.  a cooler engine (remember the coiled extention lead - well they get hot - stright ones dont unless overloaded) in theory will be more reliable and I believe maintain more of its power.

Hope you understand the waffling.  like I say, depends on the purpose of the mods, the cash available.  If its ultimate BHP and £no limits then the conversion .mods are simple.  A banks 1200 BHP twin turbo racing motor.


But then with power come problems, handling, brakes etc, so all things are relative.
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Mr Skrunts

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #13 on: 22 November 2008, 08:51:27 »

Quote
It says camshafts in Pawels post and conrods in your post.-bizarre. :-?

I did the quote and posted to the thread based on conrods, he must have edited later . . . just checked he did do, but he changed it before I posted. as it took me ages to reply. :-/


In the case of cam shafts I agree.  Not a problem.  It was the early hours,  :y
« Last Edit: 22 November 2008, 08:55:01 by skruntie »
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TheBoy

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Re: turbo position...
« Reply #14 on: 22 November 2008, 08:57:26 »

Chavney, sorry Courtney, did a turbo for 3.0 v6 Omega.  Not that common to find one now.

Only one i saw had a nasty knock from bottom end...
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