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[oilman]

I get asked many questions about oil so I thought a thread here for all oil related questions would be a good idea and build into a FAQ or reference point for others.

So, put your oil questions here but please give the following information if you would like a recommendation:

Make
Model
Year
Engine size/type

Any mods

Type of use (road/track)

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used)

What do you want a recommendation for? Engine, Gearbox etc?

I hope this will help and become a useful thread

Regards
Guy

[MickAP]

Just a gear oil question really.
Should I be changing my gear oil (manual box) as now I have done over 100,000 miles, or is it not necessary? If so which oil?
Omega 2.5TD
Year....2000

Mick

[oilman]

If you plan to keep the car then no harm in putting some fresh oil in it, peace of mind and all.

Oil wise it takes a 75w oil, have a look at the Fuchs Titan Sintofluid.

Cheers

Guy.

[ians]

I thought the manual boxes took a very particular Vx oil (and which changed over the years)... :-/

[Marks DTM Calib]

I thought the manual boxes took a very particular Vx oil (and which changed over the years)... :-/

Yes but, we managed to 'discover' the type of oil it was  

[ians]

So is Sintofluid the latest one?   Any reason to go for this over the Vx badged one?

[oilman]

So is Sintofluid the latest one?   Any reason to go for this over the Vx badged one?

Nope but the Sintofluid/Sintopoid is suitable.

What did you chaps find out about the original stuff.

Cheers

Guy.

[Marks DTM Calib]

So is Sintofluid the latest one?   Any reason to go for this over the Vx badged one?

Nope but the Sintofluid/Sintopoid is suitable.

What did you chaps find out about the original stuff.

Cheers

Guy.

The latest stuff is:

SAE75W-85 API GL4

Originally they apparantly used a basic mineral version but changed it twice until settling on a fully synth to overcome cold shift issues.

[MickAP]

So is Sintofluid the latest one?   Any reason to go for this over the Vx badged one?

Nope but the Sintofluid/Sintopoid is suitable.

What did you chaps find out about the original stuff.

Cheers

Guy.

The latest stuff is:

SAE75W-85 API GL4

Originally they apparantly used a basic mineral version but changed it twice until settling on a fully synth to overcome cold shift issues.

That's why I was thinking of changing mine.

Mick

[oilman]

So is Sintofluid the latest one?   Any reason to go for this over the Vx badged one?

Nope but the Sintofluid/Sintopoid is suitable.

What did you chaps find out about the original stuff.

Cheers

Guy.

The latest stuff is:

SAE75W-85 API GL4

Originally they apparantly used a basic mineral version but changed it twice until settling on a fully synth to overcome cold shift issues.

Yep thats what I cam up with.

The Fuchs is a fine alternative, as is Castrol SMX-S and a few others.

Cheers

Guy.

[bappy]

I have a 1999 X30XE (mv6 saloon) with a non-standard exhaust. I do lots and lots of country road driving so the engine gets a good amount of revving (I'll probly touch 3500 or 4000 revs each time I take it out)

The local branch of camberly autofactors say I should use a half decent 15w 40 semi (they want to sell me their comma branded stuff)

Last time I changed the oil I used Castrol Magnatec 15/40 which I dont think was too good an idea as it seemed to cause tappet rattle after about 4000 miles.

I changed it with a (thinner?)  10w 40 again castrol magnatec coz it was on special offer. that cured the tappet noise after a couple of hundred miles

I've heard people really bad mouth magnatec saying magnetic oil is a really bad idea as it keeps any metal dust in suspension instead of letting it sink to the bottom of the sump.

The fact that a thick magnatec seems to have caused tappet rattle would support that idea but I would like to know what brand/grade/type of oil and filter (cartridge type) is best suited to my engine and how I drive.

Cheers!

[oilman]

The trouble with the Magnatec is it is over priced for what it is. 15w-40 oils are not semi synthetic but basic mineral multigrades. The reason the tappet noise dissapeared some because the 10w-40 flows better then 15w-40 when cold and is better quality being a semi synthetic.

If you want to go all out you could use a 5w-40 synthetic.

Cheers

Guy.

[Cheshley]

Hiya,

what's the general opinion of friction reducing treatments such as ZX1?  

Also, what would be the best engine oil to put in my standard (possibly soon to be chipped) 1998 2.5TD (beemer engine)?  I don't do anything out of the ordinary in it but I do get a bit heavy-footed from time to time.  It's a bit of a shed but I really like it and would like to treat it with a bit of respect.  It's currently got whatever engine oil my mechanic put in it last time he looked it over so I can't say for sure what it is but as he's always asking me if I wanna sell it to him I think he'll have put something half-decent in it!!!!

Thanks

[106rallye]

Diff oil:


I have a OEM LSD in my MV6. The plates are getting a little worn and im planning on getting them changed in a few months, so in the mean time i changed the oil to a non LSD oil because of the theory that LSD oils have a "slipping" additive in order to give a smoother ride, however as the locking is more important, i went with a non LSD oil. I am aware that the plates will wear out quicker, but as im planning on rebuilding the diff soon, that doesn't bother me. Is there any other reason that i should be using the "correct" oil?

[oilman]

Hi Guys,

Anyone else need an oil recommendation?