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[feeutfo]

i can see the feed to vapourisor has to t off from the coolent bridge but before the hbv,got that.

Where does the return plumb in? Which of the 2 heater pipes at the bulk head is return?

hope youll save me some time in the morning figuring it out.

cheers

Chris  

[Martin_1962]

Either T like that - back in on the heater out pipe, or in series back into the HBV

Whoops - see below

[Martin_1962]

[Lazydocker]

Kevin and I have both binned the T pieces and run the coolant from the Bridge (before the HBV) through the Vap and back to HBV. Looks nice and neat and it doesn't have any adverse effects at all

Did the Manifold arrive in time?

[Kevin Wood]

There are some photos of my coolant plumbing butchery here: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1216678718/0 although I didn't take enough of that bit!

In summary, as Lazydocker said, out of the coolant bridge, 90 degree elbow and round to the vapouriser, then return from the vapouriser goes to the single connection on one side of the HBV, where the pipe from the bridge used to attach (I cut this pipe as shown in the photo and used an inline connector to extend it round to the vapouriser).

T pieces would doubtless work just as well, but this way involves less surgery and not as much plumbing rammed in behind the engine.

If you need any plumbing bits I probably have a couple left over. Ditto the taps for the injector nozzles, etc. If you're short of anything give me a shout.

Kevin

[Kevin Wood]

Here's the Bridge-to-HBV pipe before...



..And after...



I also ditched the supplementary coolant pump to make way for the vapouriser. Added a 90 degree elbow to achieve this. You can just about see it here...



Kevin

[feeutfo]

ah ok, so Martin has t pieces ( which is all i have ) and his pic makes sense, with t's in mind, once you know where the return goes.( good work Martin, thankyou )

T's no good for the "mark II version" which does look sensable as it cuts out the hbv. But to clarify, the pipes from hbv to suplementary pump... basically go from hbv direct to bulk head pipe( which ever one of the two it is, cant visualise it wihout it front of me) when sup pump removed.... correct?


Great replys gents thankyou...


No manifold yet Paul but its fine on reserve, its going well....              so far  

[Kevin Wood]

Hi Chris,

Yes, the pump normally goes in the feed from HBV to bulkhead connector so I just cut it out of the loop and joined the two hose ends with a 90 degree, which happened to fit where I'd cut the pipes. It makes bo11ock all difference having removed it. Not surprised, as I tried to employ the old pump for a garden irrigation project and it can barely muster a trickle!

Keep meaning to get a hose from a model without the pump so I can do away with that hose join. Then again I changed my coolant 2 weeks ago so I guess it can stay like that.

Kevin

[feeutfo]

Hi Chris,

Yes, the pump normally goes in the feed from HBV to bulkhead connector so I just cut it out of the loop and joined the two hose ends with a 90 degree, which happened to fit where I'd cut the pipes. It makes bo11ock all difference having removed it. Not surprised, as I tried to employ the old pump for a garden irrigation project and it can barely muster a trickle!

Keep meaning to get a hose from a model without the pump so I can do away with that hose join. Then again I changed my coolant 2 weeks ago so I guess it can stay like that.

Kevin

Yes, i played with the heater settings with a warm silent engine and i dont think ill miss it, much as i like to keep things as is, there seems to be nowhere else to sight the vap.isor.

on that subject, ive been eyeing the space between the air box and wing to site the ecu, did you look into that?

also where did you run the loom, esp to injectors?

 thanks for pics Kev. and handy link

[Marks DTM Calib]

Dont use T-pieces, you want max flow through the evaporator so plumb as per Kevins install.

It does NOT remove the bypass valve from the setup.

[SteveD]

I used T pieces on mine after being told some vapourisers can restrict the water flow (not the V-SGI that Jeremy usually supplies though) and result in a heater that's not quite as hot as it should be when you're using lots of gas.

Mine works fine and gets to 30 deg. after 1/2 a mile driving and I've never had it freeze up on me.

[Martin_1962]

I do not trust the flow rate on my evaporator to go in series.

I moved my aux pump back about 4 inches to make room for the evaporator

[feeutfo]

I do not trust the flow rate on my evaporator to go in series.

I moved my aux pump back about 4 inches to make room for the evaporator

Which vap do you have Martin? Is it same as Kevins in his pictures link? As mine is? Ta.

Mark, thanks for input, can you explane re hbv?
I was thinking if the return is before the hbv then the hbv will not interfere with flow to vap?

Never thought the vap would alter flow to hbv? Didnt think of that.

[Kevin Wood]

With the Voltran vaporiser plumbing it "in series" is the tried and tested method. I can think of at least half a dozen installations of this kit on an Omega that I've seen plumbed this way.

There is no noticeable reduction in the performance of the heater on my car. I suspect the removal of the coolant pump and pipework from the equation makes up for the addition of the vapouriser.

Using T pieces the majority of the water flow will take the path of least resistance so you may well end up with inadequate flow through either the heater or the vapouriser. Putting them "in series" means a little more restriction, but you have a powerful water pump on the engine and, during the critical warming up phase, the thermostat is closed so there is plenty of grunt available to get flow through the system. I can feel my vapouriser warming up probably only 20 or 30 seconds after a cold start.

In addition, as I said, it's easier to plumb too, IMHO.

Kevin

[feeutfo]

thanks Kev, where do you get the Elbows/90degree joins?