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[belfastmale45]

I hope I'm posting my first query into the proper section if not I apologise in advance and maybe the mods will move it to the proper section for me?

I have a double query.
1: No matter how long I drive my heaters are blowing cold air into the interior of the car. Checking under the bonnet all water pipes are red hot.
I've checked for air locks and none exist...there is no coolant leaks and no  white residue on any of those same pipes.
I close my heating off to zero and let it stay like this for a short while, then turn it on to the highest which is number 4 and a little luke warm air will come through for a few seconds then it will run cold once more.
In this weather that makes driving really uncomfortable.
Any help to correct this would be REALLY greatfully received.

2:
If my car is sitting for any length of time (not idling) especially over night and I start her up, a VERY LOUD squealing noise can be heard for miles around, I've given the car a new nick name 'The Banshee'.

This noise can last for miles if driven immediately or it can take up to 20 minutes to disappear if left idling.
I often have to leave home around 5am each morning and my neighbours are complaining a lot now. Help me please 
Any help on this matter would be GRATEFULLY received also.
My car is an Omega 1994 Ed Select Estate 2 ltr Petrol

Thanking you in advance for any help offered.

[Jimbob]

I would try flushing your heater matrix...


remove the pipes from the quick release connectors that go through the bulkhead.
push an off cut off hose pipe onto one to drain under the car.
hose pipe on the other and run for a few mins.
swap the pipes and reverse flush

reattach the pipes and see how you go 

[dbug]

squealing noise - could be aux belt - check pulleys particularly tensioner pulley. 

autobox or manual? - if manual noisy clutch release bearing?

HTH

[Matchless]

Are both heater hoses hot where they enter the bulkhead? If yes then you have good water flow through the heater matrix and the fault must be with the operation of the hot/cold air blending flap within the heater box.

Squealing noise lasts for more than 30 secs so it is not the secondary air pump.
Eliminate the aux belt (fan belt), tensioner, water pump, alternator and a/c pump by taking the belt off and seeing if the noise has gone. Make a note of the belt route then use a 15mm spanner on the tensioner to release belt tension and slip it off the crank pulley. dont run it for too long because you wont be running the coolant pump.
If noise has gone, check the water pump, alternator and tensioner bearings for roughness or looseness.
If the noise is still present stop using the car until you can find the cause.....it could be the cambelt rollers or tensioner.

[belfastmale45]

I would try flushing your heater matrix...


remove the pipes from the quick release connectors that go through the bulkhead.
push an off cut off hose pipe onto one to drain under the car.
hose pipe on the other and run for a few mins.
swap the pipes and reverse flush

reattach the pipes and see how you go 

Sorry jimbob, I'm just getting back to reply to yours now.
Do I need to removed anything from around that area to get to the pipes? I've noticed that it is a very tight squeeze and my hand can be close to the engine with little or no room to move?

[belfastmale45]

squealing noise - could be aux belt - check pulleys particularly tensioner pulley. 

autobox or manual? - if manual noisy clutch release bearing?

HTH

Buying a new Tensioner tomorrow to replace, I have replaced timing belt and Fan belt and Water pump...didn't know I had to replace tensioner..(when I say me I mean a guy fixing it for me)
Car is a manual...clutch was checked and is ok. Thank you 

[belfastmale45]

Are both heater hoses hot where they enter the bulkhead? If yes then you have good water flow through the heater matrix and the fault must be with the operation of the hot/cold air blending flap within the heater box.

Squealing noise lasts for more than 30 secs so it is not the secondary air pump.
Eliminate the aux belt (fan belt), tensioner, water pump, alternator and a/c pump by taking the belt off and seeing if the noise has gone. Make a note of the belt route then use a 15mm spanner on the tensioner to release belt tension and slip it off the crank pulley. dont run it for too long because you wont be running the coolant pump.
If noise has gone, check the water pump, alternator and tensioner bearings for roughness or looseness.
If the noise is still present stop using the car until you can find the cause.....it could be the cambelt rollers or tensioner.

Am buying a new tensioner tomorrow for replacement. Top hose is red hot, bottom hose is warm.
Took fan belt off and ran engine for a few secs and the noise is still present.
Waterpump, fan belt and timing belt were all replaced. Noise still present.
Someone suggested that the water pump could have been tightened too much and that is causing the loud squealing?
Car has not been driven in two weeks now. Am getting fitter walking is the good side of this yarn.
This morning I noticed a running leak coming from below the radiator, just a small distance from a red 'bleeder' knob...
A good puddle of water can be seen on the ground.
I'm disabled so cannot get under the car and depend on others doing work for me.
Would it be a split in the radiatior and thus having to buy a new one, or can this be easily repaired. Would radweld do the job?
Sorry for so many questions, but do appreciate the help on here 

[belfastmale45]

I have notifications ticked yes on this topic but am not receiving notifications in my emails to any earlier replies...any help appreciated on this matter 

[mark.adams]

I would avoid radweld at all costs if you plan to keep the car. It'll do a great job of bunging up your heater matrix.

[belfastmale45]

Thanks for the warning Mark.

Could you recommend something else please?

I have been told of something called Omega 101...can anyone tell me what this is?
If it does the same job as Radweld, but NOT mess up anything, can anyone then tell me can it be bought anywhere in Northern Ireland or UK mainland and if so where?

 

[jonnycool]

I have notifications ticked yes on this topic but am not receiving notifications in my emails to any earlier replies...any help appreciated on this matter 

As far as I know, you don't get notified by email, you have a message notification area on the top left of the page when you're signed in - click on the text to read and it will open your notification box 

[belfastmale45]

Thanks jonny
Am still learning lol

 

[belfastmale45]

Is there anyone on this forum who lives around the Belfast area that can work on Omegas?
If so please pm me or get in touch.
I do have the haynes manual for the Omega which covers 1998cc, 2498cc and 2969cc petrol engines only.

I have the timing belt tensioner and need someone to install this. Also I have tried taking the heater pipes off from below the bulkhead to flush them out but cannot remove them, maybe I've been doing this wrong, so help would be appreciated.

Thanking you in advance. 

[dbug]

Am buying a new tensioner tomorrow for replacement. Top hose is red hot, bottom hose is warm.
Took fan belt off and ran engine for a few secs and the noise is still present.
Waterpump, fan belt and timing belt were all replaced. Noise still present.
Someone suggested that the water pump could have been tightened too much and that is causing the loud squealing?
Car has not been driven in two weeks now. Am getting fitter walking is the good side of this yarn.
This morning I noticed a running leak coming from below the radiator, just a small distance from a red 'bleeder' knob...
A good puddle of water can be seen on the ground.
I'm disabled so cannot get under the car and depend on others doing work for me.
Would it be a split in the radiatior and thus having to buy a new one, or can this be easily repaired. Would radweld do the job?
Sorry for so many questions, but do appreciate the help on here 

Waterpump has 3 bolts through body into block (seals on large o-ring) so "overtightening" wouldn't cause pump to squeal.  If noise still present with aux belt off i would be concerned that noise due to cambelt tensioners - needs investigation!!

Aux belt tensioner held on by one 15mm nut at centre - 5 mins to undo, fit new tensioner and retighten nut!!

[Jimbob]

we now have a maint guide for flushing matrix....check that section.

it also shows the guide on removing those connectors.