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[jordan890]

where are the lpg coolent hoses situated and also lpg gas filter :-/

[Jimbob]

I belive all these can be installed in various places, but youve not given anyone enough to go on....

How about what engine do you have, what LPG kit?  who installed it?

[TheBoy]

coolant hoses - easiest to trace back from vapouriser. Filter can be fitted anywhere, depends on installer, but again, tracing from vapouriser will find it

[Jamieo]

On the Vauxhall factory fitted lpg system the filter is behind a big brass nut on the cut off valve on the vaporiser. From memory the nut is loosened with a 17 mm spanner after you have removed the smaller nuts holding the vaporiser to the bracket to gain access.

[tunnie]

all depends if you have factory fit or after market

[jordan890]

itis a factory fit  system im new to this  ould you tell me where the vaporiser is situated

[jordan890]

the car is a 2 ltr cd

[jordan890]

the car ran fine on lpg untill i had to change the head valves and cam belt now when i switch to gas the car runs for different lenghes of time then switches back to petrol :-?

[Jamieo]

itis a factory fit  system im new to this  ould you tell me where the vaporiser is situated

Drivers side inner wing sort of under the air filter box. It is a silver/aluminium circular looking thing with a copper pipe going to it, a few wires and a couple of black rubber hoses attached to it.
The cylindrical looking thing behind the radiator with the four small hoses on the top which go to the inlet manifold is the gas distributor.

[Kevin Wood]

the car ran fine on lpg untill i had to change the head valves and cam belt now when i switch to gas the car runs for different lenghes of time then switches back to petrol :-?

Surely there is a clue here? I would be backtracking over the items disturbed when the head was off so see if something has been overlooked. 

It would be quite a coincidence if the filter got clogged at the same time.

Kevin

[tunnie]

worth getting the codes from your factory fit Koltec EGI / GSI system, might tell what ECU is up to, nicked this from LPG forum

Behind de switch for choosing LPG / petrol is a grey wire whit a connector which is not
connected.
This wire has to be extended whit a other wire and connected whit the earth (chassis) of the
car.
Then you turn on the car key till all light bulbs in the dashboard go on all but don’t start the
engine.
The light bulb in the LPG/petrol switch goes flashing now.
This flashing is the giving the disturbances if there are.

Example1: 1x flashing, waiting a moment and then 2x flashing behind each other is code 12 =
no turning signal for the engine.
Note: This code is correct because we didn’t start the engine.(just at older types > 1995)

Example2: 4x flashing, waiting a moment and then 5x flashing behind each other is code 45 =
Gas mixture to rich.
Note: this code is coming often if the Vaporiser needs revision.
The diaphragms leaking and the Vaporiser/ pressure regulator don’t working well.

Every code will be given 3 times after each other before given a next code.

Codes which can be given:
Code 12 No turning signal for the engine (Vaporiser whitout temperature sensor)
(older type >1995)
Code 13 No Lambda sondesignal (lambdasonde or wiring is damaged)
Code 14 Temperature sensor signal to high.
(Vaporiser whit temperature sensor)(newer type 1995>)
Code 15 Temperature sensor signal to low.
(Vaporiser whit temperature sensor)(newer type 1995>)
Code 21 TPS-signal to high.(TPS = Throttle Position Sensor)
Code 22 TPS-signal to low.
Code 33 MAP-sensor signal to high.
Code 34 MAP-sensor signal to low.
Code 43 Divider/regulator don’t working.
Code 45 Gas mixture to rich.(light bulb in switch is flashing by driving the car)

When the gas mixture is to poor, the diagnose system gives no signal because it is thinking
the tank is (almost) empty.(light bulb in switch is flashing by driving the car)
If this is this is take a longer time, the system goes automatically to petrol run.

If the system is giving no disturbance code, and the light bulb in the switch doesn’t flash by
driving the car, the pressures don’t need to be checked.

[Jamieo]

the car ran fine on lpg untill i had to change the head valves and cam belt now when i switch to gas the car runs for different lenghes of time then switches back to petrol :-?

I had that problem, I changed the filter and took apart the gas distributor and cleaned all the components and all of the insides with carb cleaner.
That sorted it, but if you take it apart make sure you do it somewhere really clean and make a note of where all the bits go which will make putting it back togeather a lot easier.

Edit: Has your car got plenty of gas in it?
The reason I am asking is because when I am running on gas my fuel gauge is really inaccurate. I have run out with a reading of half a tank before and sometimes if I put in say 20 worth of gas  it go's down and the uel light comes on straight away. I would try adding some gas first just to rule that out.

[tunnie]

the car ran fine on lpg untill i had to change the head valves and cam belt now when i switch to gas the car runs for different lenghes of time then switches back to petrol :-?

I had that problem, I changed the filter and took apart the gas distributor and cleaned all the components and all of the insides with carb cleaner.
That sorted it, but if you take it apart make sure you do it somewhere really clean and make a note of where all the bits go which will make putting it back togeather a lot easier.

I would not add more unknowns into this issue, by stripping the evaporator. Check everything that was touched as part of the head re-build and cam belt change, make sure everything is connected way it should be before taking things apart

[Jamieo]

the car ran fine on lpg untill i had to change the head valves and cam belt now when i switch to gas the car runs for different lenghes of time then switches back to petrol :-?

I had that problem, I changed the filter and took apart the gas distributor and cleaned all the components and all of the insides with carb cleaner.
That sorted it, but if you take it apart make sure you do it somewhere really clean and make a note of where all the bits go which will make putting it back togeather a lot easier.

I would not add more unknowns into this issue, by stripping the evaporator. Check everything that was touched as part of the head re-build and cam belt change, make sure everything is connected way it should be before taking things apart

I didn't tell him to strip the evaporator (vaporiser),  I said the gas distributor. It is something that needs done from time to time on the factory fitted systems (if his is the same as mine) and it only takes 30 mins or so to do so it wouldn't hurt to try it. I would also change the filter (unless he knows it has been done recently) as they are supposed to be changed every year, again, it wouldn't hurt to try. 

Another thing to try would be to bleed the cooling system as it may be airlocked slightly in the vaporiser which could possibly make it switch back to petrol.