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Author Topic: removing oil filter canister  (Read 1062 times)

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feeutfo

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removing oil filter canister
« on: 29 May 2010, 23:28:11 »

simple job? any new seals needed? large nut inside i presume? need to remove the whole thing to access the oil cooler pipes. Oil cooler re seal in the morning on ex plod 3.2.(it bloody shifts too  :y )
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Andy H

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #1 on: 29 May 2010, 23:46:59 »

I'm guessing that you have seen this maintenance guide that refers to a hollow bolt retaining the housing?

How2 to convert your old metal element oil filter, to a new spin on type

I assume that the oil filter housing uses an o-ring for a seal. I would always use a new one for a planned job and then be fairly confident that it would be OK to re-use in an emergency.
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feeutfo

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #2 on: 30 May 2010, 00:27:19 »

seen it but didnt think to look for this job  :y

i was looking at oil cooler rplacement guide.

Thanks Andy :y
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I_want_an_Omega

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #3 on: 30 May 2010, 07:57:13 »

The double ended threaded converter pipe from Vx has gone up significantly in price since the guide was written  :'(
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Jimbob

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #4 on: 30 May 2010, 08:22:21 »

Quote
The double ended threaded converter pipe from Vx has gone up significantly in price since the guide was written  :'(

To how much?  am about to buy one I think.

I_want_an_Omega

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #5 on: 30 May 2010, 13:50:51 »

£12.15 + VAT IIRC   :(
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Andy B

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #6 on: 30 May 2010, 14:29:19 »

I can't see any advantages in changing to a throw away/spin-on oil filter.
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Jimbob

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #7 on: 30 May 2010, 19:00:53 »

Quote
I can't see any advantages in changing to a throw away/spin-on oil filter.


Easier (toolless) change, no overtightning worries...

Ive got about 15 of that (cheaper) style in stock...

feeutfo

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #8 on: 30 May 2010, 19:43:59 »

Quote
Quote
I can't see any advantages in changing to a throw away/spin-on oil filter.


Easier (toolless) change, no overtightning worries...

Ive got about 15 of that (cheaper) style in stock...

i bloody can, one less thing to battle with when you want to get to the oil cooler pipes.


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feeutfo

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #9 on: 30 May 2010, 19:47:25 »

oh yeah, its a 12 mill allen key holding the cannister on, on this particular 3.2 anyway.
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Arrolman

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #10 on: 30 May 2010, 21:45:38 »

I would say a big advantage, after 2 nights of trying to remove my housing cover i've given up, will be ordering a spin on filter adaptor tomorrow, 1 bent socket, a mangled housing and a busted hand tell me its going to be well worth it :D

Cheers,
Iain
« Last Edit: 30 May 2010, 21:46:01 by Arrolman »
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Andy B

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #11 on: 31 May 2010, 08:50:38 »

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.... one less thing to battle with when you want to get to the oil cooler pipes.

Not exactly a job you do very often is it?  ;)
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feeutfo

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #12 on: 31 May 2010, 09:24:49 »

Quote
Quote
.... one less thing to battle with when you want to get to the oil cooler pipes.

Not exactly a job you do very often is it?  ;)

once is too often, 3 times now on various cars.  >:(

Why did they go from a gaskit to sealent for the oil cooler cover plate by the way. Surely a gaskit is easier for them at the factory. Oil cooler threads would have to be a tad longer i guess, just seems odd. Can a gaskit not take the heat?
« Last Edit: 31 May 2010, 09:29:27 by chrisgixer »
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Andy H

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Re: removing oil filter canister
« Reply #13 on: 31 May 2010, 11:40:28 »

Quote
Quote
Quote
.... one less thing to battle with when you want to get to the oil cooler pipes.

Not exactly a job you do very often is it?  ;)

once is too often, 3 times now on various cars.  >:(

Why did they go from a gaskit to sealent for the oil cooler cover plate by the way. Surely a gaskit is easier for them at the factory. Oil cooler threads would have to be a tad longer i guess, just seems odd. Can a gaskit not take the heat?

Gaskets between jointing faces are less precise than metal to metal contact. The oil cooler cover has metal to metal contact and a groove for a seal. I'm guessing that it was a pig of a job to guarantee that the seal stayed in the groove on every engine that left the factory.

A smear of sealant isn't going to fall out and get pinched when the cover is bolted down so I see it as better than a fiddly seal. :y
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