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[Shrek]

Hopefully doing my wishbones soon with Lemforder's and was looking at these tools to help , so do you think these will be any good ??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400131773810&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

And

http://www.lmfvauxhall.co.uk/store/product.php?productid=16680&cat=0&page=1

Any thoughts 

[blue_dream]

 Hi
    I would not bother with these, just have the front wheel aligment checked after, i have the track rite camber gauge which is good, i used when i replaced the front struts as you lose the settings, ok to get the setting about right, you need to make sure you have the right gauge as i believe their are two different types, then you MUST have the whole wheel aligement checked by a system called the HUNTER system, have a look on here with a company called wheels in motion. 

[psnimv6]

i seen the same thing on tv a few months ago and i think the magnet on disc thing would be very useful to get back to the correct setting that you had before suspension work ,i don,t think it would be any good to set the car up to the right setting totally because the suspension needs to be under load to get correct but it wouk be useful to get back to what it was after some work i think

[Shrek]

Hi
    I would not bother with these, just have the front wheel aligment checked after, i have the track rite camber gauge which is good, i used when i replaced the front struts as you lose the settings, ok to get the setting about right, you need to make sure you have the right gauge as i believe their are two different types, then you MUST have the whole wheel aligement checked by a system called the HUNTER system, have a look on here with a company called wheels in motion. 

WIM is to far away from me 

[Shrek]

i seen the same thing on tv a few months ago and i think the magnet on disc thing would be very useful to get back to the correct setting that you had before suspension work ,i don,t think it would be any good to set the car up to the right setting totally because the suspension needs to be under load to get correct but it wouk be useful to get back to what it was after some work i think

I know it needs done under load but with some playing around it should at least be better than nothing .... ie wieght on wheels then check and jack up and re adjust and re-check etc ... :-/   Im not showing any inner tyre wear just now so if i can get it back to what it is just now then i would be happy 

[Kevin Wood]

I wouldn't bother with either. You can set camber up reasonably accurately with a spirit level on a flat surface. The magnetic tools are rubbish.

.. and you don't need camber adjusting bolts because it's already adjustable.

Kevin

[feeutfo]

You can replicate the original setting quite easily.
Before dismantling
Measure with a spirit level, and or
Place both sides on stands.
Using the approprite sized socket as a feeler gauge measure the gap from vertical face of the wheel rim to shock body.
Do the work.
Set camber with same socket trapped between shock and rim. Key to it is setting the correct tension   
on hub bolts so it can move but not slip when you let go.
Hth

[Kevin Wood]

You can replicate the original setting quite easily.
Before dismantling
Measure with a spirit level, and or
Place both sides on stands.
Using the approprite sized socket as a feeler gauge measure the gap from vertical face of the wheel rim to shock body.
Do the work.
Set camber with same socket trapped between shock and rim. Key to it is setting the correct tension   
on hub bolts so it can move but not slip when you let go.
Hth

This will get it close but the problem is if the wishbones are a slightly different length or it was previously adjusted with saggy bushes it will still be wrong.

You'll also end up with the toe being out after a wishbone change and that's less easy to DIY and more critical for tyre wear so the car would need a proper setup anyway, IMHO. All we're going to be able to do is get it to a state where it won't scrub 10k miles of tread off the tyre on the way.

Kevin

Kevin

[feeutfo]

You can replicate the original setting quite easily.
Before dismantling
Measure with a spirit level, and or
Place both sides on stands.
Using the approprite sized socket as a feeler gauge measure the gap from vertical face of the wheel rim to shock body.
Do the work.
Set camber with same socket trapped between shock and rim. Key to it is setting the correct tension   
on hub bolts so it can move but not slip when you let go.
Hth

This will get it close but the problem is if the wishbones are a slightly different length or it was previously adjusted with saggy bushes it will still be wrong.

You'll also end up with the toe being out after a wishbone change and that's less easy to DIY and more critical for tyre wear so the car would need a proper setup anyway, IMHO. All we're going to be able to do is get it to a state where it won't scrub 10k miles of tread off the tyre on the way.

Kevin

Kevin

Totally agree. Should have said it must still be checked fully after.

Have used the socket method when changing shocks, wim said they could not improve the settings which they originally set. Shock change different story to wishbone change though, all you can do is get it best you can before driving the car directly to a set up firm.

Toe I find it worth looking very carefully along the side of the car and ."rifle site" the edged of the front wheel for alignment with the rear wheel edge. But this needs doing on one side before staring work on other wishbone or it's a mare, involves a lot of reversing back and forth to get the tyre contact patch settled between adjustments. Very difficult with semi seized track rod adjustors as well.

Anyway, main thing is to attempt the correct setting best you can, don't just throw it back together and drive it without set up.

[hoofing it]

Hi
    I would not bother with these, just have the front wheel aligment checked after, i have the track rite camber gauge which is good, i used when i replaced the front struts as you lose the settings, ok to get the setting about right, you need to make sure you have the right gauge as i believe their are two different types, then you MUST have the whole wheel aligement checked by a system called the HUNTER system, have a look on here with a company called wheels in motion. 

WIM is to far away from me 

[/highlight]
theres a chap in Edinburghwho does the 4 wheel tracking as far as I know he does tracking on top end cars.
I will try and get a Phone number for him from my mate

[Shrek]

Hi
    I would not bother with these, just have the front wheel aligment checked after, i have the track rite camber gauge which is good, i used when i replaced the front struts as you lose the settings, ok to get the setting about right, you need to make sure you have the right gauge as i believe their are two different types, then you MUST have the whole wheel aligement checked by a system called the HUNTER system, have a look on here with a company called wheels in motion. 

WIM is to far away from me 

[/highlight]
theres a chap in Edinburghwho does the 4 wheel tracking as far as I know he does tracking on top end cars.
I will try and get a Phone number for him from my mate

Thanks that would be great 

[Shrek]

You can replicate the original setting quite easily.
Before dismantling
Measure with a spirit level, and or
Place both sides on stands.
Using the approprite sized socket as a feeler gauge measure the gap from vertical face of the wheel rim to shock body.
Do the work.
Set camber with same socket trapped between shock and rim. Key to it is setting the correct tension   
on hub bolts so it can move but not slip when you let go.
Hth

This will get it close but the problem is if the wishbones are a slightly different length or it was previously adjusted with saggy bushes it will still be wrong.

You'll also end up with the toe being out after a wishbone change and that's less easy to DIY and more critical for tyre wear so the car would need a proper setup anyway, IMHO. All we're going to be able to do is get it to a state where it won't scrub 10k miles of tread off the tyre on the way.

Kevin

Kevin

Oh why do these car has to be so awkward 

[Andy H]

I had a good look at my front tyres last weekend and realised that they were scrap due to scrubbing on the inside edges. 

I have ordered Lemforder wishbones from Allgerman and went and got some cheap tyres fitted this morning.

None of the local garages or tyre fitters I have spoken to have any experience of setting the camber  so I think I will have to check and/or set it myself after I have fitted the new wishbones.

My car has 17" rims so I have calculated that the top edge of the rim should be 8.8mm nearer to the centre line of the car than the bottom edge

17" x 25.4mm x sine(1'10") = 8.8mm

does the maths look correct?

[RobG]

Hi
    I would not bother with these, just have the front wheel aligment checked after, i have the track rite camber gauge which is good, i used when i replaced the front struts as you lose the settings, ok to get the setting about right, you need to make sure you have the right gauge as i believe their are two different types, then you MUST have the whole wheel aligement checked by a system called the HUNTER system, have a look on here with a company called wheels in motion. 

WIM is to far away from me

This place is nearer and uses the Hunter system http://www.starperformance.co.uk/wheelalign.htm

[Kaycee]

8.8 is spot on for -1.10
3mm at rims difference is approx 23 minutes according to my calculations i have mine set on level road to 9 mm and is -1-10  camber and running absolutely spot on
 its a relativley easy operation to do by the way