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[TestOmega]

would there be many problems for you if parts could be sent out from the UK??

the only problem is the coast....visa cards or similar services coast tonnes of money and comes with huge monthly fees, rendering it usable only by companies and government agencies...
i can make a bank transfer, but the min charge is 50$

and how about Ebay?

i think china branch ship to here....but i am stuck with the first problem

a friend tried a type of visa (prepaid cards, you buy, use it, and throw it away)...ordered some silly stuff (for testing) from ebay china, they told him it ll take a month to get here....i didn't ask again so i don't know if he had them or yet, it could be handy.

that leaves the coast of the shipping....i thing the options are limited (dhl, fedex,...). the coast is about 40$ per 1/2kg...that what i use when i order some expensive equipment over the net, not sure that would be useful for sensor that is a 50$ or so

now about the carbon build up...how can i make sure and what can i do?

Ali Ch I notice in your posts to just adding water instead of recommended coolant.  I believe this probably is not going to be too good in terms of corrosion and deposits build up.

I realize the difficulty you have getting authentic stuff but you need to have some anti-corrosion protection in your coolant/water specially to protect any pumps in the cooling loop as well.

In case it helps.

[Ali Ch]

thanks for the tips
it was great until my father heard what i want to do.....he said the carbon bits falling will scratch the cylinder sides....any chance he might be right?

now if i am gonna try some thing....i ll go for the water.....i don't think i can find the other liquids easily, if some one had it, he probably don't now what it is, or mistake it for another thing.....i ll have to ask first though to see if they know of such things

now if the water didn't make it to the cylinder, it ll be trapped at the bottom of the intake manifold, right? is that a big problem can i use one of the halls that brings vacuum to other things (like the one connected to the fuel regulation valve? or is it too small, one can use the breather also???
or am i better leaving it to burn by its own??

still one thing...if it is a carbon build up, it would knock only when it is wormed up, is n't it? and it will be knocking all the time when it is worm, is n't it??  i am really not sure......it most of the time start knocking as soon the worm up cycle finishes (temp gauge still below 80) and i had plenty occasions when it worked very good when it is worm.

[Ali Ch]

hiiii
i got a 2nd hand oxygen sensor today (the guy how suppose to import said he canceled the order because its too expensive and no one will buy it ......
i changed it....and when i started the car the mgmt light went off after few secs....but it came back on as soon as i took of !!!! i stopped, turned off the engine and on again and the light is off, when i started moving it is on again !!!!......paper clip test give me the error (1327: Knock control cylinder 2 ?) ....what is this? i can't seem to find it or why its happening....i googled and search here in the forum but nothing useful !!!

the knocking is as usual nothing changed, except the misfiring, yesterday (before i change the sensor) it kept misfiring (it was only the first few seconds after i start the car) now its all the time ?

testOmega: i some times (when its not leaking, and i don't know where from) mix the water with anti-freeze/anti-corrosion (well at least that what the container say)....as far as that anti-freeze part it works, i took it up north once and it was fine and didn't freeze overnight (-10C) but i don't know about the anti corrosion part. and btw, its still leaking and i dont know where from, but in less amount.

[Sixstring]

Ali...will give this one some serious thought, and consult my friends that are more knowledgeable than me. Don't worry, we will sort this for you, have patience.

[same #same#]

try this take the battery off and remove the ecu from the black box, have a good look at the wires and the plug and socket, hot and cold weather make the copper shrink, also check the ecu temp sensor on the top off the ecu.

[Ali Ch]

also check the ecu temp sensor on the top off the ecu

i can't find any temp sensor on the ecu......what it looks like and where its connected???

i was willing to make a full wiring check tomorrow.....i ll take samesame's advice, and probably check all the ecu wiring one by one with a multi meter, under day light its dark now

hot and cold weather make the copper shrink

do you mean shrinking will make the connections loose and wires short???

[same #same#]

some sensors are on out side but others are inside the ecu, shrinking when copper gets cold it shrinks a bit, and get brittle and bit can snap., when warms up dose not close all way back on to the spade and dose not give a good connection.

[Ali Ch]

that will be tricky to find....

[same #same#]

that will be tricky to find....

if you take your time and use trox key just look when the one in the ECU gose it get dicoloured brow black colour on its top ring, if has gone it more easyer to just get another ecu than replace it as can get damaged when replacing it as when made they use cold solder, and heat from a soldering iron can damage the new one unless you has a cold solder gun.

[Ali Ch]

hiii again....
i just finished checking all the engine wiring, i never felt down to have good results, i was hoping to find a problem and fix it, but it is all in good condition.
i opened the ecu....nothing seems out of the ordinary, but one of the current drivers (four big ICs in the middle of the board covered with plastic peace) has a brown upper arch (not all of the ic) and a very small notch in the plastic casing, i first thought its fried, but when i inspected it thoroughly it seemed like a manufacturing imperfection (i asked couple of colleagues and they kind of agreed, we are electronic engineers ), we are not 100% sure, and i want your opinion, if weather such conditions are common or you can confirm it is fried. i have pictures of the ecu board, but i dont seem to be able to attach any files...where can i put it for you guys to see???

[Omegafantasy]

Hi Ali,

Generally speaking, being an electronics guy myself; a scorched and brown component is a bad sign, but have a look at covers and other circuitry around to see if there's any visible stains of something smoking there. I'm not sure about the internals in that particular ECU, but as you say it's some driver IC's. Maybe you could google the part number and maybe find some other data on it for in-circuit measurement?

I'm about to check my ECU for similar defects (re: my code 136 thread).

[same #same#]

if any part on the electric board has a chip in it i.e resisters that will be a weak spot on board, black brow or blistered would say with out testing on a meter has failed and needs changing, if you have a pic of it it would help, if black on ends its getting weak and if black etc in middle then it was quick shock of volts.

[Ali Ch]

it is TPIC2802.....serial to parallel current driver.......it is only brown on the top edge of the metal back!!! clean and shiny front and back.....what do you think guys? should i get a new ecu?




here are a larger versions of the pics if some one wants a closer look
http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/2562/dsc04854.jpg
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5046/dsc04856e.jpg

[Ali Ch]

the rest of the board is as good as new......i just couldn't be conclusive about that one ic :-/

[same #same#]

think it may have over loaded heat wise on the back of it is it brown from bottom of the chip with gap? and colour of the lid inside would be brown as well above that chip.