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Author Topic: Rear brake pad seized solid  (Read 1644 times)

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Teebee

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #15 on: 22 August 2010, 23:11:56 »

Not sure how much space you would get or if it would work but how about remove the outboard pad, loosen the caliper bolts to half way then push the caliper back so that you create a space between the inboard pad and disk. Now hit it with a hammer! But seriously try hitting the pad back away from the piston rather than trying to remove it straight away (you would have to push against the caliper wile you hit it), you're trying to break a rust line along 2 full edges, by hitting inwards you are only trying to break a small portion of rust.

I spent 3 hours removing a drum today i'm now an expert on rust removal  :)
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MickAP

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #16 on: 23 August 2010, 11:19:28 »

Quote
Not sure how much space you would get or if it would work but how about remove the outboard pad, loosen the caliper bolts to half way then push the caliper back so that you create a space between the inboard pad and disk. Now hit it with a hammer! But seriously try hitting the pad back away from the piston rather than trying to remove it straight away (you would have to push against the caliper wile you hit it), you're trying to break a rust line along 2 full edges, by hitting inwards you are only trying to break a small portion of rust.

I spent 3 hours removing a drum today i'm now an expert on rust removal  :)


I tried the above but ended up removing the caliper. You need to support it though if not removing the brake pipe.
I managed it without putting stress on the pipe. My inboard rear pad had seized in, both sides due to the estate being laid up for a few weeks in winter. There's plenty of crud that builds up in there, on the edges of the pad backplate. You need the caliper out really to give it a good clean in there, once you get the pad out.

Mick :y

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Andy H

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #17 on: 23 August 2010, 23:40:55 »

When I got my first Omega the inboard pads had rusted into the rear calipers. I am not absolutely certain of the sequence of events now but when I took it for an MOT I can remember the tester endeavoring to achieve a satisfactory rear brake test.

After pressing the brake pedal HARD a few times on the roller test rig  (with engine running) a cloud of rust dust enveloped the rear of the car and normal(ish) braking was restored.

I don't know how the wheelbearings coped but it certainly got the pads moving  ::)
« Last Edit: 23 August 2010, 23:41:42 by andyh »
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markfree

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid (Update)
« Reply #18 on: 27 August 2010, 17:13:01 »

Well I'm sure you're all dying to know which plan worked - well it was (trumpet fanfare)...............................Plan A
The slide hammer puller worked a treat but totally destroyed the pad :'(
Certainly well worth The £10 I spent on it - saved me alot of grief.
Anyways thanks for all the advice. :y
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Kneepad

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #19 on: 27 August 2010, 18:33:21 »



Well done. You can get your tenner back by hiring it out
to others.   :) :y
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markfree

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #20 on: 27 August 2010, 22:40:53 »

Quote

Well done. You can get your tenner back by hiring it out
to others.   :) :y

Anyone can borrow it for free if they want - won't be needing it for some time, I hope, as I have new pads all round. :y
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